HowTo Amigurumi
Free Crochet Pattern
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Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

Dark gray Dragon Toothless amigurumi head close-up
4.6Rating
12-15 HoursTime
AdvancedSkill
Highlights

What makes it special

Whimsical Buddy

A playful dragon that sparkles with character and posable limbs, crocheted in soft dark gray yarn for imaginative play and display.

Multi-Day Project

A multi-day journey that spans several sessions, reflecting the large scope, wire-frame construction and careful assembly required to bring Toothless to life.

Advanced Level

This project suits experienced crocheters who enjoy intricate amigurumi with moving parts and are comfortable with magic rings, color changes, invisible decreases, seaming, shaping, wiring and joint construction.

Create a night-loving dragon you can cradle in your hands with the Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern. This free project invites advanced crocheters to embrace a character who is both sleek and cuddly, a perfect blend of fantasy and fiber art. The finished figure stands about 30 cm tall, a heroic presence that still fits comfortably on a shelf or beside a bed. I designed Toothless to reward careful tension, precise shaping, and patient counting, because every subtle curve matters in a dragon’s silhouette. You’ll see the pattern leans on MR magic rings, BLO for a smooth surface, and just enough bobble texture to hint at scales without becoming busy.

If you’re chasing a weekend-long challenge that ends in a beloved toy, this amigurumi delivers. I used Fine/4ply yarns in Dark Gray and Black with a bright Yellow accent to spark focus on the dragon’s eyes and crest. The construction combines a sturdy wire frame with soft stuffing so the wings and tail hold their pose yet remain squeezable for hugs. The eyes are enhanced with seed beads and a small touch of textile paint to capture Toothless’s curious gleam. My goal was a project that feels cinematic in your hands, inviting you to craft a character you’ll want to display, gift, or tell stories about.

About This Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

This Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern embodies the classic balance between sculptural form and plush comfort. The body is built from fine/4ply yarns, with a deliberate contrast between dark gray and black, while a deliberate yellow accent breathes personality into the face and crest. The finished toy stands around 30 cm tall, with a sleek head, tapered torso, and wings that sweep in a poised arc. A lightweight wire frame anchors the neck, wings, and tail so you can pose Toothless confidently without compromising stability. Texture is achieved through a careful blend of sc, inc, hdc, BLO, and selective bobble stitches that evoke dragon scales and ridges without creating harsh ridges on the surface.

Color decisions are purposeful: the deep base reads as a night dragon, the black adds depth in the creases of the wings, and the yellow highlights act as cheerfully mischievous touches that draw the eye to small details like the crest and snout. A lace-weight yellow accent adds a delicate charm that wouldn’t be possible with a heavier yarn. The assembly leans on a robust yet gentle frame—0.9 mm and 1.6 mm wires keep posture intact while the stuffing remains soft enough for safe cuddling. Seed beads for eyes and a careful gloss of white textile paint create a lively expression that stays safe for gentle play. Whether Toothless sits on a bookshelf or guards a nightstand, the amigurumi maintains a balanced stance and a timeless, story-ready presence.

Open your toolkit for a dragon who blends tactile texture with articulate pose. The Dragon Toothless Pattern emphasizes an expressive head—curved snout, generous brow, and a neck that leads into a slender torso—and gives wings enough curvature to suggest flight without overpowering the toy’s scale. You’ll rely on MR to establish the head’s foundation, then shape the cheeks and jaw with strategic sc, inc, and dec to achieve a lifelike lift. In the body, BLO rounds keep the surface smooth while subtle increases define the belly and back ridges, a nod to Toothless’s sleek realism. The limbs are anchored to a carefully planned frame, so the arms and legs hold a natural position even when Toys are perched or posed. The tail tapers gracefully, with the body’s tapering relieved by a few rounds of decreasing stitches that preserve balance and proportion.

Texture language matters here: bobble stitches along the spine give a tactile hint of scales, while a few raised stitches near the eyes add dimensionality without becoming visually busy. The color story remains faithful to the character—dark gray and black as the base with yellow accents—and it’s reinforced by a tiny lace-weight yarn that provides a crisp highlight on small features like the crest and toes. Sharp details like a precise eye line, a glossy nose, and careful eye bead placement contribute to Toothless’s friendly expression while keeping the finish clean and durable. You’ll work with a two-hook approach (2 mm for the body and 1.25 mm for fine elements) to preserve tight gauge and clean corners, essential for the dragon’s smooth surface.

The finishing phase rewards precision: seed beads for irises, a thin wash of white paint for catchlights, and careful stuffing to sustain the dragon’s elegant silhouette. The pattern is designed to be sturdy enough for display and gentle enough for hugging, so you’ll feel confident assembling the joints and securing the wings to the frame. This design keeps the character’s charm intact through careful assembly, seam alignment, and thoughtful color layering. The result is Toothless ready for storytelling, photos, or a cozy cuddle, with a pose that captures energy and calm in equal measure.

Dragon Toothless wings and body with wire frame in progress

For makers who want to adapt this Dragon Toothless design, the color logic and proportion offer friendly room for personalization. Change the main yarns to suit your stash and watch how the silhouette shifts—still recognizable, still playful. I like to trim the wings with a contrasting accent and adjust the tail curl to suit the space where Toothless will live. The yellow highlights can be swapped for a different bright color if you prefer a more whimsical feel. Remember that the underlying frame, gauge, and stitch density keep Toothless stable no matter the hues.

If you’re experimenting with yarn weight, you’ll notice the finished size shifts accordingly; you may need a smaller hook to keep the same 30 cm tall profile. The technique of invisible decreases, BLO, and fine motor beadwork remains central, so practice these on a swatch if you’re uncertain. By staying faithful to the character’s proportions—head a touch broad, wings sweeping back, tail tapering—you ensure the spirit of Toothless remains intact. No matter the substitution, the stitches still tell the story: a friendly night-dweller who loves to snuggle and share tiny adventures. This field invites you to honor the design while letting your own crochet voice shine through.

Stitches & Skills You'll Use

The heart of this pattern is a stitch orchestra that builds Toothless’s silhouette with depth and life. On the head and body, you’ll transition from MR to simple rounds of sc and inc to sculpt cheeks and the brow ridge. A gentle use of BLO keeps the back smooth, while a few DC and hdc rounds define the tummy and wing edges. The eyes are formed with precise bead placement and a minimal gloss of textile paint, so they catch light without creating glare. The wings get a lightweight frame using 0.9 mm wire to hold their arc, then are covered with stitched fabric that blends into the body.

In the tail and neck, you’ll use subtle decreases and a few bobble stitches to simulate raised scales and taper. Hiding the joins inside the limb seams preserves a clean front, which is essential for display polish. Be mindful of tension in every round to prevent puckering around the jaw and wing joints. The yellow accents are worked as a tiny lace edge—an indulgent detail that catches the eye. As you assemble, you’ll enjoy the satisfaction of seeing the dragon’s posture come alive under a careful combination of wires and stuffing.

A well-balanced finish comes from testing pose in small increments and adjusting wire placement before sealing. The 1.25 mm hook handles fine details and crisp edges, while the 2 mm hook shapes the larger parts with sturdier fabric. Seed beads for eyes plus white textile paint for highlights create a lifelike expression without sacrificing safety or weight. If you pause to admire the ribbing along the back, you’ll notice the way bobbles and raised stitches imitate scale textures without overwhelming the surface. This project rewards patience, precise technique, and a steady hand at crimping tiny components into a dragon’s frame.

Why You'll Love This Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

You’ll love how this free Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern rewards your time with a character that feels alive. The balance of soft stuffing and a wire-assisted frame gives Toothless poseability you rarely see in an amigurumi under 12-15 hours of work. I designed the piece to be both technically satisfying and visually charming, with a head tilt, wing position, and tail curl that convey personality. The color story—Dark Gray, Black, and a pop of Yellow—reads as a toy that belongs in a dragon’s world and a child’s bedtime routine. If you enjoy planning stitches and tweaking tension, you’ll relish the challenge of invisible decreases and precise seam alignment.

The pattern also makes a wonderful teaching tool for advanced techniques, from MR to BLO and bobble work. As you build, you’ll see how small tuning of the frame can shift the dragon’s silhouette from perching to hovering. This piece invites you to practice meticulous finishing—eye placement with seed beads, a gloss of paint, and careful stuffing to keep lines crisp. The end result is not merely a toy; it’s a storytelling partner that holds up to imaginative play and careful display. I hope Toothless becomes a favorite in your crochet library and a reminder that pattern, patience, and a little fantasy can coexist beautifully.

The pattern’s practical edge—clear abbreviations, consistent rounds, and tested gauge—lets you trust your project from first stitch to final knot. I’ve included note-worthy details about the wire frame and joints to ensure durability during years of cuddles and adventures. You’ll feel a sense of accomplishment as you pass from the magic ring to the finished snout, with every color join singing in harmony. Because Toothless is built for display and gentle play, this pattern fits both adult makers and bold teens who crave character labors. Ultimately, this design proves that a dragon can be both mythical and approachable, a faithful companion fashioned by your hands.

Colour & Yarn Inspiration

If you love the bold contrast of Dark Gray and Black with a sunny yellow highlight, you’ll enjoy variations that honor Toothless’s spirit. Try substituting the base with charcoal gray and pewter instead of the pure black with the same yellow or a sunrise hue for the eyes. A two-color scheme can keep the silhouette readable while introducing unique personality under different lighting. You’ll still appreciate the same workhorse stitches—MR, sc, inc, BLO—and the sturdy wire framework that keeps wings wide and dramatic. This Dragon Toothless is a canvas for color curiosity as well as technical craft.

Consider a soft gradient from dark to lighter gray along the back to emulate shading without altering the shape. Experiment with eye color by using seed beads in amber, emerald, or sapphire for a different gaze. A yellow yarn accent can be replaced by a warm gold to evoke sunrise on a dream flight. When you test these ideas, keep the final height steady at around 30 cm so the figure still sits comfortably on a shelf. Color theory meets crochet technique in this beloved character, so have fun with the palette.

For a cozier look, switch to a softer yarn with a slight halo while maintaining the crisp edges demanded by the pattern. A glossy black can give a sleek modern finish, while a matte gray offers a vintage dragon vibe. Don’t forget to tint the snout and cheeks with dry pastels to add warmth and depth. No matter the combination, you’ll treat each stitch as part of Toothless’s personality. Let the colors narrate a tiny story as you bring the dragon to life.

Finished Dragon Toothless amigurumi with flowers

Switch Things Up

When you first open the Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern, a tiny universe of whimsy unfurls in your hands. This free, advanced-level pattern invites you to master a precise magic ring start, the feel of fine/4ply yarn, and careful shaping that yields a dragon toy about 30 cm tall. The finished size is approximately 30 cm tall, with a balanced silhouette that pairs a cuddly head and a confidently poised tail. I designed the build to sing the amigurumi language: sturdy inner framing, invisible decreases for smooth curves, and BLO to create subtle texture on scales and wings. If you adore the luxury of Yarn Art Baby Cotton in Dark Gray and Black, with a sunny Yellow accent from Alpina Lena, this pattern makes the colors glow in photos and on display.

In the color story, the body reads as graphite gray with darker shading along the back, while a kiss of yellow gives life to tiny details. The main fabric uses Fine/4ply yarn, and I work with a 2 mm hook to achieve a snug, plush texture that holds its shape. The Lace Weight Alpina Lena in Yellow threads tiny highlights into the snout and inner ears, catching light as Toothless pokes his head forward. These color choices translate the character of Toothless into a display-worthy sculpture that photographs beautifully from any angle. Tiny components - beads for eyes, satin-smooth joins, and subtle yellow seams - catch the eye under soft lighting.

As you stitch, you will feel the pattern guiding you from steady rounds into careful shaping with a 1.25 mm hook for crisp edges. A multi-diameter wire frame keeps Toothless sturdy and posable: 0.9 mm for compact limbs, 1.6 mm for the spine and wings, and longer lengths for a graceful tail. Beads and nylon thread build a gentle eye glint, a crucial element that brings personality to the dragon's gaze. Together with fiberfill stuffing and invisible decreases, the body remains dense and huggable instead of floppy, ready for big hugs at story time. A quick hint of dry pastel tinting along the muzzle and cheeks adds depth to the dark gray, so shading reads softly in photos.

Finished, this Dragon Toothless Amigurumi becomes a storytelling partner as well as a cuddle-worthy sculpture that sparks imagination. Display him on a shelf, gift him to a dragon-loving friend, or conjure tiny adventures with him perched on a finger during bedtime. Because this is a free pattern with detailed notes on MR, BLO, Bobble St, and other shaping steps, the journey rewards your growing crochet skill. Photographing Toothless against natural light makes the black and dark gray body pop, while the yellow accents glow like a friendly ember. I hope this pattern stays in your crochet library as a favorite, a 30 cm dragon built with patience, precision, and a big-hearted sense of whimsy.

Ways to Use & Gift It

A Dragon Toothless amigurumi makes a thoughtful gift for dragon fans, young crafters, or anyone who adores a cuddly fantasy friend. Pair Toothless with a small display stand or a velvet gift box so the dragon can shine on a shelf or in a backpack. Include a care card and a tiny bottle of textile paint so the recipient can touch up the eyes or crest as needed. Wrap the finished dragon in tissue and tuck a note about the hours you spent crafting him alongside the stories you imagined. This free pattern becomes a keepsake that grows with the recipient’s imagination.

If gifting to younger makers, include a safety note about joints and soft stuffing. Consider turning this project into a family craft night, turning the pattern into a shared adventure. A Dragon Toothless can accompany bedtime rituals, keeping dreams brave as the stars come out. For teachers or librarians, Toothless can be a reading buddy on a story hour shelf, inviting conversation about character design and storytelling. The versatility of this free pattern makes it suitable for many recipients and settings.

Enhance the gift with a tiny crochet tote containing a hook and少 yarn scraps to inspire ongoing creativity beyond the model. You can also craft a matching friend for Toothless, building a tiny dragon family that explores color theory together. This gift idea extends to charity projects or classroom displays, where handmade toys spark curiosity and magic. With a little planning, Toothless can symbolize perseverance—the kind of handmade gift that grows with the recipient. Sharing this amigurumi journey as a gift makes the act of giving feel as meaningful as the finished dragon itself.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Skipping stitch markers at color changes can cause misaligned rounds; always place a marker at the start of each round and move it as you crochet. Ignoring the wire framework or misplacing joints can lead to unstable limbs; insert the wire frames carefully and secure joints firmly before stuffing. Overstuffing the body or limbs makes the amigurumi stiff and inflexible; stuff gradually and shape as you go for a natural silhouette. Forgetting to count stitches after increases or decreases leads to uneven sections; recount after each round and compare with the target stitch count. Not securing ends properly or sewing parts without pinning first results in awkward gaps or misalignment during assembly; pin parts carefully before sewing.

Maker's Notes

Before you start, run a gauge test with the 2 mm hook on a small swatch to ensure the rounds stay tight enough for a neat surface and to prevent gaps at the seams. Test your tension on a miniature version of the head to practice the MR, plus a few BLO rounds to confirm they lay flat without pooling. Validate the frame placement with a dry run, wiring the neck, wings, and tail so each joint holds a pose without undue strain on the fabric. Always fill gradually, checking that stuffing supports the curves of the snout and back while preserving smooth lines along the belly.

During assembly, confirm that each limb attaches securely without offsetting the dragon’s balance. Practice eye placement on a spare face before sewing the beads, then tint with a light touch to achieve natural catchlights. When you tint, apply a thinned layer of black or white textile paint in tiny dots to simulate depth without muddying the silhouette. Keep the seam edges neat and avoid bulk where wings meet the back, so the dragon can perch or lie with a tidy profile. This is a project where careful testing—gauge, pose, and finish—directly translates into a more durable, display-ready amigurumi.

Documentation is valuable here: note your yarn tension, the exact wire placements, and the size of your beads for future projects or color swaps. If you find the surface a little flat, a light pass with a dry brush of black on the ridges can add depth. Conversely, you can dampen the surface slightly to soften the lines if you prefer a cuddlier look. Test each modification on a tiny practice piece before applying it to Toothless, so the final dragon remains true to the original dimensions and balance. The goal is a reliable, repeatable craft experience with a result that keeps its charm after hours of display and cuddles.

I tried a substitution: When substituting yarns or weights, expect changes in final size, drape, and texture. For example, replacing the Fine/4ply main with a DK weight will bulk the surface slightly unless you switch to a smaller hook and redistribute rounds carefully. If you keep the same hook but choose a thinner yarn, the dragon’s proportions can shrink, which is workable with minor frame and seam adjustments. In all cases, the important elements—the head shape, wing curvature, and tail taper—should stay proportionate to maintain Toothless’s recognizable silhouette.Substituting eyes or beads is another area that alters the face’s expressiveness. Seed beads in different colors can yield a warmer or cooler gaze, but ensure they are securely anchored to avoid loose components in play. Textile paint choices influence gloss and catchlight; testing a small patch first helps you calibrate how much shine the eye area displays. If you switch the yellow accent to a different hue, you’ll want to adjust the shading around the crest to preserve visual balance. With any substitution, keep the frame positioning and overall height at roughly 30 cm to preserve the dragon’s structural rhythm and display appeal.

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

This Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern embodies the classic balance between sculptural form and plush comfort. The body is built from fine/4ply yarns, with a deliberate contrast between dark gray and black, while a deliberate yellow accent breathes personality into the face and crest. The finished toy stands around 30 cm tall, with a sleek head, tapered torso, and wings that sweep in a poised arc. A lightweight wire frame anchors the neck, wings, and tail so you can pose Toothless confidently without compromising stability. Texture is achieved through a careful blend of sc, inc, hdc, BLO, and selective bobble stitches that evoke dragon scales and ridges without creating harsh ridges on the surface. Color decisions are purposeful: the deep base reads as a night dragon, the black adds depth in the creases of the wings, and the yellow highlights act as cheerfully mischievous touches that draw the eye to small details like the crest and snout. A lace-weight yellow accent adds a delicate charm that wouldn’t be possible with a heavier yarn. The assembly leans on a robust yet gentle frame—0.9 mm and 1.6 mm wires keep posture intact while the stuffing remains soft enough for safe cuddling. Seed beads for eyes and a careful gloss of white textile paint create a lively expression that stays safe for gentle play. Whether Toothless sits on a bookshelf or guards a nightstand, the amigurumi maintains a balanced stance and a timeless, story-ready presence.

Advanced 12-15 Hours
Pattern at a glance
Skill level
Advanced
Time to make
12-15 Hours
Hook size
2.0 mm (B) and 1.25 mm (E)
Yarn weight
Fine/4ply with lace accents
Finished size
Approx. 30 cm / 11.8 in tall
Gauge
Gauge around 6 sc x 6 rows per inch (approximate)
Yarn used
Main color approx. 350-400 g; accent colors small amounts

Materials Needed

Main Fabric
  • 01
    Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) in Dark Gray (454) and Black (460) and Yellow (10)
  • 02
    Lace weight/1ply Alpina Lena 50g/280m (100% mercerized cotton) in Yellow
  • 03
    Hook size 2 mm and 1.25 mm
  • 04
    Toy stuffing material (fiberfill)
  • 05
    Beading needle and needle with a blunt end
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Sewing pins
  • 08
    Wire for the frame: diameter 0.9mm - 23cm (2pcs.), 19cm (4pcs.), 13cm (2pcs.); diameter 1.6mm - 45cm
  • 09
    Hot glue gun
  • 10
    Textile paint of black and white colors
  • 11
    Seed beads
  • 12
    For joints fastening: plastic joints size 25mm - Hind legs (2pcs), size 15mm - Forelegs (2pcs); For cotter pins fastening: disks size 25mm - 4pcs, disks size 15mm - 4pcs, T-shaped cotter pins 20*2 - 4pcs; Round nose pliers
  • 13
    Fishing line or nylon thread for sewing seed beads
  • 14
    Dry pastel of black color for tinting
  • 15
    The finished toy size is about 30cm
Tools Required
  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 1.25 mm
  • 03
    Beading needle
  • 04
    Needle with a blunt end
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Sewing pins
  • 07
    Wire for the frame: 0.9 mm and 1.6 mm
  • 08
    Hot glue gun
  • 09
    Textile paints in black and white
  • 10
    Seed beads
  • 11
    Disk cotter pins: 25 mm x4, 15 mm x4
  • 12
    T-shaped cotter pins 20x2 x4
  • 13
    Round nose pliers
  • 14
    Fishing line or nylon thread for seed beads
  • 15
    Dry pastel for tinting

— Part 1 :

Round 1: 6sc in a MR (6)
Round 2: 6inc (12)
Round 3: (1sc, inc)*6 (18)
Round 4: 1sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*5, 1sc (24)
Round 5: (3sc, inc)*6 (30)
Round 6: 2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*5, 2sc (36)
Round 7: (5sc, inc)*6 (42)
Round 8: 3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)
Round 9: (7sc, inc)*6 (54)
Round 10: 4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*5, 4sc (60)
Round 11: (9sc, inc)*6 (66)
Round 12: 66sc (66)
Round 13: 5sc, inc, (10sc, inc)*5, 5sc (72)
Round 22: 18sc, (BLO 36sc), 18sc (72)
Round 23: 5sc, dec, (10sc, dec)*5, 5sc (66)
Round 24: (9sc, dec)*6 (60)
Round 25: 4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*5, 4sc (54)
Round 26: (7sc, dec)*6 (48)
Round 27: 2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*7, ch3;
Round 28: skip 2 stitches before marker and 2 stitches after marker, next crochet 1sc, dec,;
Round 29: 2sc on the chain, dec, (2sc, dec)*7 (24)
Round 30: (2sc, dec)*6 (18)
Round 31: (1sc, dec)*6 (12)
Round 32: 6dec (6)

— Part 2 :

Round 1: 6sc in a MR (6)
Round 2: 6inc (12)
Round 3: (1sc, inc)*6 (18)
Round 4: (inc, 2sc)*6 (24)

— Part 3 :

Round 1: 6sc in a MR (6)
Round 2: (1sc, inc)*3 (9)
Round 3: 4sc, inc, 4sc (10)
Round 4: 4sc, inc, 5sc (11)
Round 5: 5sc, inc, 5sc (12)
Round 6: (inc, 5sc)*2 (14)
Round 9: 6sc, dec, 6sc (13)
Round 10: 5sc, dec, 6sc (12)

— Part 4 :

Round 1: 6sc in a MR (6)
Round 2: 6sc (6)

— Part 5 :

Round 1: 6sc in a MR (6)
Round 2: (2sc, inc)*2 (8)
Round 3: 8sc (8)

— For cotter pins legs fastening :

Round 1: 6sc, 4sc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain: 5sc, inc (17)
Round 2: inc, 5sc, 4inc, 5sc, 2inc (24)
Round 3: 1sc, inc, 5sc, (1hdc, hdcinc)*4, 5sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (31)
Round 4: 9sc, (3-dc Bobble st in black, 2sc in dark gray)*4, 9sc –;
Round 5: 31sc (31)
Round 6: (4sc, dec)*2, 7sc, (dec, 4sc)*2 (27)
Round 7: 6sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 6sc (24)
Round 8: 6sc, 6dec, 6sc (18)
Round 14: (5sc, inc)*3 (21)
Round 17: 13sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 6sc (21)
Round 18: 13sc, 2sc on the chain, 6sc (21)
Round 19: 21sc (21)
Round 17: 21 sc (3 rounds)
Round 18: 21 sc (3 rounds)
Round 19: 21 sc (3 rounds)

— Part 7 :

Round 1: 6sc in a MR (6)
Round 2: 6sc (6)
Round 3: (1sc, dec)*2 (4)
Round 17: 6sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 13sc (21)
Round 18: 6sc, 2sc on the chain, 13sc (21)
Round 19: 21sc (21)
Round 20: (5sc, dec)*3 (18)
Round 21: (1sc, dec)*6 (12)
Round 22: 6dec (6)

— For cotter pins legs fastening :

Round 1: 6sc in a MR (6)
Round 2: 6inc (12)
Round 3: (1sc, inc)*6 (18)
Round 4: 5sc, (3-dc Bobble st in black, 2sc in dark gray)*3, 4sc;
Round 8: 8sc, dec, 8sc (17)
Round 9: 17sc (17)
Round 10: 5sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 5sc (15)
Round 11: 15sc (15)
Round 12: 6sc, dec, 7sc (14)
Round 13: 6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)
Round 14: dec, 12sc, dec (14)
Round 15: 6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)
Round 16: dec, 12sc, dec (14)
Round 17: 6sc, 2inc, 1sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 3sc (16)
Round 18: dec, 9sc, 2sc on the chain, 1sc, dec (14)
Round 17: 6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)
Round 18: dec, 12sc, dec (14)
Round 17: 3sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 1sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)
Round 18: dec, 1sc, 2sc on the chain, 9sc, dec (14)
Round 17: 6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)
Round 18: dec, 12sc, dec (14)

— Part 9 :

Round 1: 27sc (27), turn. After that do not work with the wire.
Round 2: from the 2nd stitch: 8sc, dec, 12sc, dec (22), turn.
Round 3: from the 2nd stitch: 11sc, dec, 6sc (18), turn.
Round 4: from the 2nd stitch: 16sc (16), turn.
Round 5: from the 2nd stitch: 13sc (13), turn.
Round 6: from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), turn.
Round 7: from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.
Round 8: from the 2nd stitch: 8sc (8), turn.
Round 9: from the 2nd stitch: 4sc (4), turn.
Round 10: from the 2nd stitch: 3sc (3), ch3, turn.
Round 19: (5sc, dec)*2 (12)
Round 20: 6dec (6)
Round 11: from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 3sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous;
Round 12: from the 2nd stitch: 15sc, dec (16), turn.
Round 13: from the 2nd stitch: 7sc (7), turn.
Round 14: from the 2nd stitch: 6sc (6), turn.
Round 15: from the 2nd stitch: 5sc, +1sc into the corner, 4sc along stitches of the previous row;
Round 16: from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), t-ch, turn.
Round 17: from the 2nd stitch: 9sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row;
Round 18: from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), t-ch, turn.
Round 19: from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.
Round 20: from the 2nd stitch: 8sc (8), t-ch, turn.
Round 21: from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5), turn.
Round 22: from the 2nd stitch: 3sc, inc (5), 3ch, turn.
Round 23: from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 5sc, +1sc;
Round 24: from the 2nd stitch: 18sc (18), turn.
Round 25: from the 2nd stitch: 17sc (17), turn.
Round 26: from the 2nd stitch: 16sc (16), turn.
Round 27: from the 2nd stitch: 14sc (14), turn.
Round 28: from the 2nd stitch: 13sc (13), t-ch, turn.
Round 29: from the 2nd stitch: 11sc (11), turn.
Round 30: from the 2nd stitch: 9sc, inc (11), t-ch, turn.
Round 31: from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.
Round 32: from the 2nd stitch: 7sc, inc (9), 3ch, turn.
Round 33: from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 8sc (8), turn.
Round 34: from the 2nd stitch: 4sc (4), turn.
Round 35: from the 2nd stitch: 3sc (3), turn.
Round 36: from the 2nd stitch: 2sc, +1sc into the corner,;
Round 37: from the 2nd stitch: 4sc, dec (5), t-ch, turn.
Round 38: from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5), t-ch, turn.
Round 39: from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5)

— Part 10 :

Round 1: 4sc in a MR (6)
Round 5: (1sc, inc)*2 (6)
Round 9: (2sc, inc)*2 (8)
Round 12: (3sc, inc)*2 (10)
Round 13: 10sc (10)
Round 14: 2sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 2sc (12)
Round 15: 12sc (12)
Round 16: (5sc, inc)*2 (14)
Round 17: 14sc (14)
Round 18: 3sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 3sc (16)
Round 19: 16sc (16)
Round 20: (7sc, inc)*2 (18)
Round 23: 4sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 4sc (20)
Round 27: (9sc, inc)*2 (22)
Round 31: 5sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 5sc (24)
Round 34: (11sc, inc)*2 (26)
Round 37: 6sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 6sc (28)
Round 39: (13sc, inc)*2 (30)

— Part 11 :

Round 1: 11sc, inc, 1sc, 4inc, 1sc, inc, 11sc (36)
Round 2: 6sc, inc, 22sc, inc, 6sc (38)
Round 3: 14sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 14sc (40)
Round 4: 10sc, inc, 18sc, inc, 10sc (42)
Round 5: 3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)
Round 6: 48sc (48)
Round 7: (7sc, inc)*6 (54)
Round 10: 13sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 24sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 13sc (54)
Round 11: 13sc, 2sc on the chain, 24sc, 2sc on the chain, 13sc (54)
Round 11: 54sc (54)
Round 17: 8sc, dec, (16sc, dec)*2, 8sc (51)
Round 18: 20sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 20sc (49)
Round 19: 49sc (49)
Round 20: 20sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 20sc (47)
Round 21: 47sc (47)
Round 22: 21sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 21sc (45)
Round 23: (13sc, dec)*3 (42)
Round 24: 42sc (42)
Round 25: 6sc, dec, (12sc, dec)*2, 6sc (39)
Round 26: 39sc (39)
Round 27: (11sc, dec)*3 (36)
Round 28: 3sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 4sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 16sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 4sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 3sc (36) -;
Round 29: 3sc, 1sc on the chain, 4sc, 2sc on the chain, 16sc, 2sc on the chain, 4sc, 1sc on the;
Round 28: 3sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 28sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 3sc (36) (mark space between stitches 9 and;
Round 29: 3sc, 1sc on the chain, 28sc, 1sc on the chain, 3sc (36)
Round 30: 8sc, dec, 16sc, dec, 8sc (34)
Round 31: 34sc (34)
Round 32: (15sc, dec)*2 (32)
Round 33: 32sc (32)
Round 34: 7sc, dec, 14sc, dec, 7sc (30)
Round 35: 4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*2, 4sc (27)
Round 36: (7sc, dec)*3 (24)
Round 37: 24sc (24)

— Part 12 :

Round 1: 12sc (12), ch3, turn;
Round 2: from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13), turn.
Round 3: from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), ch3, turn;
Round 4: from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13), turn.
Round 5: from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), ch3, turn;
Round 6: from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13)

Assembly Instructions

  1. Attach head to body by inserting the neck portion (rounds 21-25) into the opening at the top of the body, then sew securely using whipstitch.
  2. Position hind legs on either side of the body between rounds 18-22, using wire frames to keep them steady, then sew firmly in place.
  3. Sew legs to the bottom of the body, spacing evenly and ensuring symmetry for balance.
  4. Attach ears to the top of the head at rounds 6-9, spacing about 8-10 stitches apart to frame the face.
  5. Attach wings to the back between rounds 28-32; insert the wing frame wires into their pockets and secure to the body, then sew along the back edge for a clean finish.

Important Notes

  • Use stitch markers to keep track of rounds, especially during color changes and shaping sections.
  • Stuff firmly but not too tightly for the best shape and structure - overstuffing can distort your work.
  • Pin all parts in place before sewing to ensure correct positioning and symmetry.
  • Weave in ends as you go to avoid a tedious finishing session at the end.
  • Work with consistent tension throughout for even, professional-looking results.

To close, this Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern offers a complete, expressive dragon ready to set off on grand adventures or cozy evenings. Its 30 cm height, poseable wire framework, and careful blend of textures deliver a character that feels both cinematic and approachable. The color scheme—Dark Gray, Black, and Yellow—reads as a familiar hero who can brighten any room with whimsy and warmth. Through MR, BLO, and a touch of bobble stitching, Toothless gains depth and personality that invite you to tell stories with your fingers just as you would in a book. May this finished dragon bring countless hugs, imaginative play, and a sense of accomplishment that lasts long after the last stitch is secure.Whether you’re gifting him or keeping him for yourself, I hope Toothless becomes a treasured companion in your crafty world, a reminder that skilled hands can translate a beloved character into a lovingly crafted toy. Thank you for crocheting along with this free pattern and for adding your voice to a timeless dragon’s journey. Here’s to many more hours of patient stitching, colorful threads, and the magic of creating something truly memorable with your own two hands.

Good to know

You ask, we answer

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 30 cm tall when using the recommended yarn and hook size.

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size. Make sure to use an appropriate hook size for your chosen yarn.

This pattern is advanced, so basic knowledge of crochet stitches and techniques is recommended for best results.

Most crocheters complete this project in 12-15 hours, though time may vary based on experience level and working pace.

Eyes and facial features on Dragon Toothless amigurumi
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