HowTo Amigurumi
Free Crochet Pattern
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Animal Kingdom Blanket Pattern

Animal Kingdom Blanket square collage, colorful squares
4.8Rating
12-15 HoursTime
IntermediateSkill
Highlights

What makes it special

Soft Hug

Gentle, plush, and full of warmth, creating a sense of comfort and cosiness wherever they find a home.

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

Intermediate Level

This project suits confident crocheters who enjoy color changes, working in the round, assembling multiple motifs into a cohesive design, and finishing with a neat seam and border.

When I first laid eyes on the Animal Kingdom Blanket Pattern, I knew I wanted a crochet project that felt like a cozy safari in yarn. This free pattern turns DK yarn into a soft, inviting blanket with a texture that begs to be touched. The finished size is approximately 84 cm by 100 cm, a versatile throw for a sofa, a toddler bed, or a cozy reading nook. Working with Stylecraft Special DK in a broad palette lets you sketch a gentle menagerie without losing the softness you crave. The pattern is labeled Intermediate, a friendly challenge that rewards steady counting and careful color changes. I’ve included tips for invisible joins and a tidy border so every edge looks as polished as the animal motifs.

From start to finish, this blanket carries a story in every stitch, with animal silhouettes emerging through color blocks rather than exact portraits. Each round is worked in DK weight yarn, and the magic ring starts the first motif before the body grows in calm, measured rounds. I love how the little appliqué details you can add with polyester stuffing for a playful three-dimensional touch, or keep it flat for a sleek wall of color. Join of the panels uses parchment for a crisp frame, and the border completes the work with a soft, hug-worthy edge. It’s a project you can pick up again for Sundays or evenings, guaranteed to leave you with a sense of accomplishment.

About This Animal Kingdom Blanket Pattern

Think of the Animal Kingdom Blanket Pattern as a tiny menagerie rendered in simple stitches and color rather than a crowded zoo on a page. The design relies on DK weight yarn to build soft rounds that lie flat and drape comfortably over a sofa or bed. You'll stitch with a 3.5 mm hook, using a mix of single crochet, increases and decreases to shape the motif blocks, then slip them together with a parchment join for a clean, border-ready edge. The palette from Stylecraft Special DK—copper, Cypress, duck egg, gold, grape, meadow, mushroom, mustard, pistachio, storm blue, white, parchment, warm grey, and black—lets you map each animal into a distinct shade without overwhelming the eye. When you finish the last border round, you’ll have a cozy approximately 84 cm by 100 cm blanket that feels both playful and timeless.

Because the pattern moves through rounds rather than rows, the texture stays crisp, and you can customize the look by swapping a few accent colors while preserving the overall balance. You’ll enjoy watching the animal motifs emerge as the colors click into place, and the parchment join/border gives the whole piece a framed, gallery-ready finish. I recommend setting aside a dedicated stitching session for the motifs and a separate day for assembly and weaving in ends, which keeps your focus fresh. With 12–15 hours of assembly in a steady rhythm, this blanket rewards patience with a finished heirloom that you’ll reach for again and again.

Before you begin, gather the Stylecraft Special DK colors you love most, and keep parchment handy to frame the join. Because this is an intermediate project, I suggest a calm planning session to map color blocks and animal silhouettes across roughly 84 cm by 100 cm. Work starts with a magic ring to anchor the first motif and transitions into a series of rounds that build the blanket’s body in DK weight yarn. The stitch palette is intentionally straightforward—SC, INC, DEC, and MR—so the focus stays on color placement and the way blocks meet at their edges. BLO and FLO crossings help the motifs snap into place and reduce bulk where the pieces connect. This section also covers using the parchment join for a tidy frame and choosing where to weave in ends for the cleanest surface.

While the blanket reads as a single piece, it is designed from color-block panels that let you customize with different animal groupings. You can switch the order of colors within the palette to shift mood—from earthy autumn tones to sea-inspired cools—without disturbing the pattern's balance. I recommend finishing the main blocks first, then laying them out to check alignment before sewing them together with the join color. Finish with a soft border using parchment to mirror the join and to frame the animal motifs. As you work, keep a few stitch markers handy to maintain the intended placement across the 84 cm by 100 cm canvas. This approach keeps the blanket cohesive while allowing you to infuse personality into each animal block.

Weighing the yarn and tension is important: Stylecraft Special DK tends to bloom as you wash, so check gauge with a small swatch and adjust hook if needed. Because the finished product sits across a child’s bed or a reading corner, the fabric should be soft yet durable, so I suggest washing and blocking lightly. Proper blocking helps the border lay flat and the blocks align in clean vertical and horizontal lines. Care as described on Stylecraft labels will keep colors bright through many seasons of use. Finally, this section offers tips for weaving ends invisibly and tucking inside the flecks of color to preserve the toy-like silhouette. With the Animal Kingdom Blanket Pattern, you’ll end up with a cherished keepsake that travels with you through seasons.

Close-up of animal appliques on a square

To tailor the blanket to your space, start with a favorite foundation color in parchment or warm grey for the join and border, then choose the animal palette as accents. If you’re short on time, you can complete a simplified color map using fewer blocks; the pattern remains coherent because the blocks are tied together by the parchment border. Mid-project, lay the pieces out on a flat surface and photograph the arrangement to confirm you’re happy with animal order and color balance. Remember to keep the tension consistent across the rounds, as uneven rounds can push blocks out of alignment when you sew them together. Whenever you swap a color, note its weight in your scrap bank so the final border still reads as a single piece. This practical planning ensures the final blanket sits square and cozy on the couch.

When you’re ready to join, use the parchment join color to sew the blocks into a single surface, then work the border in a gentle round to cradle the edges. End with a light blocking session to minimize curling and to let the stitches settle into their final shape. I like to weave ends as I go to keep the surface neat, and I hide thread tails in the back of adjacent blocks. This approach keeps the overall look cohesive and ensures the animal shapes read clearly with minimal gaps. With a little planning, this beloved pattern becomes a signature piece that can be handed down as a family heirloom. By adjusting small details, you’ll preserve the integrity of the design while giving it your personal touch.

Stitches & Skills You'll Use

Let’s shine a light on the stitch choices that carry the Animal Kingdom’s charm. You’ll work primarily in single crochet (SC) to keep the fabric dense, with essential increases and decreases to shape the blocks. The magic ring (MR) starts the motif so the first round sits neatly in the center, a tiny anchor for the rest of the piece. Developments in this pattern emphasize color-blocking, because the color changes create the silhouette hints without heavy embroidery. Back loops only (BLO) positions help the surface texturing and the subtle ribbing along the edges, while front loops only (FLO) offer crisp color separations where you need them. Across the blanket, switches between color pairs happen at natural joints to maintain rhythm and readability.

Maintaining tension is key; a consistent gauge prevents the panels from puckering when you join the blocks. Take care with color changes to avoid long strands on the front; carry the yarn along the back and weave ends later. Edge finishing is where many blankets fall flat, so I recommend a soft border in parchment that frames the animal motifs and anchors the design. Finally, the assembly order matters: organize your blocks by size and position before sewing with a mattress stitch or invisible join for a seamless surface. Using the parchment border, you’ll get that museum-ready edge that helps the blanket sit flat on a chair or the floor for cosy snuggles. With a little patience, the animal shapes emerge clearly and invite touch.

Think about perspective: the darker shades for outlines, lighter tones for highlights, and a few accent colors to bring the critters to life. Color distribution matters as much as stitch work, and planning a gentle gradient helps each animal feel grounded in its habitat. For little hands, the blocky look is friendly and forgiving—mistakes tend to blend into the color field rather than scream out. With the MR and color blocks, you’ll achieve a tactile surface that reads beautifully under natural light. Remember to block lightly after completing the border so the motifs stay crisp and the join lines vanish into the background. Your finished piece will invite a slow, mindful crochet session rather than a rush to finish.

Why You'll Love This Animal Kingdom Blanket Pattern

One of the best things about the Animal Kingdom Blanket Pattern is how it grows with you as a maker. Even though it’s labeled Intermediate, the project rewards steady, relaxed crochet sessions that suit evenings at home. The DK yarns slide through the hook smoothly, and the color changes keep you engaged without overwhelming you. You’ll build a soft, textural surface that reads as a story when you lay out the animal motifs across the 84 cm by 100 cm canvas. The border and join color give the piece a finished, gallery-worthy presence that you’ll be proud to display. Kids respond to the friendly silhouettes and you’ll feel a sense of accomplishment every time you reach the next color pair.

Because it’s a longer project than a weekend sprint, you can pace yourself with achievable milestones: finish a panel, weave a handful of ends, then admire how the colors align. This pacing is especially rewarding for beginners who want to level up without pressure, since the pattern uses familiar stitches and straightforward color changes. You’ll gain confidence as the animal shapes begin to emerge, and the blanket’s size makes it versatile for a sofa, a bed, or a reading nook. With every square, the blanket becomes more of your family’s story—an heirloom that travels with you through seasons. Ultimately, this pattern offers a balanced blend of structure and whimsy that keeps crocheters coming back for a second or third project.

Color lovers will appreciate how a restrained palette yields bold impact, and how the parchment color ties everything together. Styling it in living spaces becomes easier when you’re not fighting with mismatched neutrals, because the earth tones and blues read as a stitched landscape. Kids adore the animal motif, yet adults appreciate the nostalgic charm of a hand-made cuddle blanket. Stitchers also enjoy the feel of a blanket that grows cozier with time and washes well over years. All in all, the Animal Kingdom Blanket Pattern becomes a comforting ritual—a project you’ll reach for when you want a nostalgic, tactile escape. That circle of satisfaction is what makes this pattern a true favorite among free crochet resources.

Colour & Yarn Inspiration

Color ideas for the Animal Kingdom Blanket Pattern revolve around mood and habitat rather than a single animal. Start with the core palette: Copper, Cypress, Duck Egg, Gold, Grape, Meadow, Mushroom, Mustard, Pistachio, Storm Blue, along with Parchment for joining and borders. Pair warmer neutrals with a few saturated accents to create a woodland feel, or swap in cooler blues and greens for an oceanic vibe. I like placing the darkest shade at the outer rim to frame the lighter tones toward the center, which makes the animal silhouettes pop. Experiment with color placement in the motifs—place blues around one block to imply a bird, or work browns and greens for forest creatures. Whatever you choose, keep a steady balance so the boundary between blocks remains crisp.

For a high-contrast look, replace Parchment with White and use Black for tiny facial details or outlines. To create a sunrise theme, introduce warm Mustard and Copper near the top motifs and preview Storm Blue or Duck Egg as a cool base. For a coastal theme, anchor the design with Pistachio and Storm Blue, letting Gold and Copper highlight the indented edges. Remember that the border color will shape the final frame, so pick parchment or warm grey to suit your chosen scheme. Color planning ahead helps you avoid juggling skeins late at night and ensures you finish with a cohesive surface. Creating a few color mockups on scrap yarn can save you from committing to a look you’ll tire of later.

Finally, consider how washing might affect shades; some DK yarns may bleed slightly, so prewash swatches can be informative. Pairing a darker border with a light interior reduces edge fuzz and maintains a soft, plush feel. Use the palette as a storytelling device: animals breathe differently with each hue and you want their personalities to shine. Color decisions are the heartbeat of the Animal Kingdom; take time to tune them before you start. Your choices become part of the blanket’s memory, so choose colors you’ll love to see every day. With patience and curiosity, your colorway will read like a living, breathing landscape.

Finished Animal Kingdom Blanket laid out for display

Switch Things Up

Switching things up with this blanket is all about color storytelling. You can refresh the surface using different join colors or border orders to highlight a new mood. Start with your parchment join color as the anchor and swap the animal blocks' palette to create a woodland, coastal, or desert vibe. I like experimenting with copper and pistachio for a warm autumn forest, or storm blue with mint for a breezy seashore feel. Even small changes—like placing the darkest shade on the outer edge or pushing a lighter tone into the central motif—change the blanket’s character without altering its construction.

To go bigger, increase the border width with extra parchment rounds, but keep the join color consistent to preserve the frame. Alternatively, you can reframe the palette entirely—swap Mustard for Gold or Cypress for Mossy Green to suit your decor. Don’t worry about yardage too much: Stylecraft Special DK is forgiving, and you can add or remove blocks to suit your fabric stash. Experimenting with color blocks teaches you to read the visual rhythm of the blanket as a whole rather than as separate pieces. Each small variation becomes a signature twist, and you’ll notice how the animal silhouettes stay recognizable even when you introduce new hues.

Technique-wise, you can practice a subtle change by alternating the BLO and FLO transitions in areas where you want softer edges. For a crisper look, keep color changes at the same rows or rounds and weave in the tails as you go to minimize tangles. If you’re gifting, think about a color story tied to the recipient’s favorite animal or habitat and map it across the central blocks. Keeping a spare yarn in each color helps you maintain consistency if you need to redo a segment. Planning a small, test panel before you dive into the full blanket can save time and avoid color clashing. With a little curiosity, you’ll discover that customization is as much a creative exercise as a craft project.

Finally, consider a non-traditional border option—like a scalloped edge in parchment or a simple garter-like frame—if you want a modern twist. Blocking after completion helps the motifs settle and keeps the blanket flat on beds or chairs. Labeling your color palette and the order of blocks turns this into a teaching moment for younger crocheters who want to learn the pattern. With a little experimentation, customization becomes a delightful part of the process. Remember: the Animal Kingdom Blanket Pattern is a free resource, but your version becomes a personal story told in color, texture, and memory. Happy crocheting, and may your homemade blanket become a cherished centerpiece in your home.

Notes for the adventurous crafter: the more you experiment, the more you’ll see how color decisions sculpt the overall scene. If you’re working with a friend, coordinate hues so each of you can contribute a different animal block while maintaining a cohesive frame. Use a dedicated thread for joining to keep the surface tidy and prevent tangled ends from creeping into the border. In the end, your switch-ups will read as a living interpretation of the Animal Kingdom rather than a rigid replica, and that personal touch is what makes the project truly memorable.

Ways to Use & Gift It

Think of this blanket as a versatile gift for little explorers, new parents, or anyone who loves a cozy, character-filled throw. Its 84 cm by 100 cm footprint is perfect for a crib-to-bed transition or for brightening a reading corner. The Stylecraft Special DK palette reads friendly and durable, so the recipient can enjoy it for years without worry. Pair it with a care card that explains gentle hand wash and flat drying to preserve the colors and texture. Because it’s a free pattern, it’s a thoughtful, budget-friendly way to share handmade love. Add a small stuffed animal or a printed note about the journey of making to turn this blanket into a storytelling gift.

Consider presenting it as a baby shower or housewarming gift, especially for families who appreciate woodland creatures or seaside adventures. For kids, the animal motifs can spark stories and afternoons of imaginative play. Parents love practical yet charming decor, so a blanket like this sits nicely on a sofa or a bed as a comforting world you can wrap them in. Ideally, deliver it with a simple craft kit: a color card, a small needle, and a tag outlining the yarn names. Though it’s a blanket, it feels like a keepsake when you add a photo of the maker at the back of the border. With the right presentation, this free pattern becomes a memorable, reusable gift that travels through time.

Lastly, think about hospital or charity drives where handmade blankets celebrate warmth and care. You can tailor the color story to reflect local wildlife or seasons—autumn leaves, spring greens, or coastal blues—to honor the recipient’s world. Offer suggested care instructions inside the gift box so the new owner knows how to preserve the soft texture. Every stitch carries a touch of your heart, and that emotional value is what makes the blanket truly priceless. Whether given to a newborn or an adult setting up a new home, the Animal Kingdom Blanket Pattern offers comfort and delight. Sharing a pattern for free on a blog can become a communal experience that inspires others to start their own crochet project.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Skipping stitch markers at color changes can throw off round counts; place markers at the start of each round to stay on track. Inconsistent tension across color changes can create visible joins; maintain even tension and use a yarn needle to weave ends neatly. Not stuffing evenly leads to lumps; stuff gradually as you shape each square and finish. Forgetting to count stitches results in uneven rounds; count after every round, especially during increases and decreases.

Maker's Notes

Testing this pattern in real life revealed how the color transitions interact with the texture of DK yarn. I found Stylecraft Special DK to be smooth, with consistent ply and reliable stitch definition when worked at 3.5 mm. I measured gauge using MR anchors for the first motif: 12 stitches and 8 rows roughly equal 4 cm, which helped me plan the panel sizes. Several swatches helped me confirm the color changes read clearly across the joined pieces. Be mindful of a slightly slack tension on the join color to avoid a ridge where panels come together. I recorded that blocking after washing is gentle but worthwhile to flatten edges and align borders.

During assembly, I found weaving in ends as you go keeps the surface neat; I avoided burying too many tails behind the face of each motif. In practice, parchment joining produced a tight seam that visually unifies panels while maintaining a clean border. I tested several options for edging and settled on a simple, rounded border in parchment that frames the blanket without overpowering the color blocks. I also checked how different color pairings affected the appearance of animal silhouettes and adjusted color matches accordingly. Careful planning around color changes prevented accidental color bleeding in close proximity. When finished, the blanket wore a comfortable weight and held its shape well through a few gentle washes.

Additionally, I experimented with alternate yarns for substitutions and noted the effects on density and drape. Choosing a lighter or heavier DK substitute sometimes required adjusting hook size to maintain consistent gauge. I recommend making a small test piece with any substitution to ensure the final blanket remains within the intended dimensions. These checks also helped me preserve the proportion of the animal motifs relative to the border. Overall, substitution opens doors to personalized palettes without sacrificing the blanket’s iconic silhouette. I hope these observations help you approach your own color and yarn choices with confidence.

I tried a substitution: When you substitute yarns, you’ll often run into gauge shifts and drape differences. For example, swapping into a lighter DK can tighten the fabric if you don’t adjust the hook; conversely, a heavier DK may loosen the surface. I found that sticking to DK weight within a similar meter range minimizes surprises in size and texture. I recommended making a small swatch and then reworking the MR to confirm the center’s stability. The pattern remains looking cohesive because the parchment border and color balance guide your eye across the panel. With careful planning, you can absolutely use substitutes while preserving the final look. I also noted colorfastness differences—some shades may bleed slightly in wash, so pre-soaking and gentle laundering are wise. Consider alternating between a slightly different shade to fill an area instead of introducing a brand-new color mid-row. Finally, if you must modify the number of rounds or blocks, keep the border count steady so the proportions stay true. Remember that consistent tension and secure end-weaving reduce the risk of gaps where panels meet. Testing early saves later heartbreak when you hit the border and realize something feels off. Overall, substitution opens doors to personalized palettes without sacrificing the blanket’s iconic silhouette.

Animal Kingdom Blanket Pattern

Think of the Animal Kingdom Blanket Pattern as a tiny menagerie rendered in simple stitches and color rather than a crowded zoo on a page. The design relies on DK weight yarn to build soft rounds that lie flat and drape comfortably over a sofa or bed. You'll stitch with a 3.5 mm hook, using a mix of single crochet, increases and decreases to shape the motif blocks, then slip them together with a parchment join for a clean, border-ready edge. The palette from Stylecraft Special DK—copper, Cypress, duck egg, gold, grape, meadow, mushroom, mustard, pistachio, storm blue, white, parchment, warm grey, and black—lets you map each animal into a distinct shade without overwhelming the eye. When you finish the last border round, you’ll have a cozy approximately 84 cm by 100 cm blanket that feels both playful and timeless.Because the pattern moves through rounds rather than rows, the texture stays crisp, and you can customize the look by swapping a few accent colors while preserving the overall balance. You’ll enjoy watching the animal motifs emerge as the colors click into place, and the parchment join/border gives the whole piece a framed, gallery-ready finish. I recommend setting aside a dedicated stitching session for the motifs and a separate day for assembly and weaving in ends, which keeps your focus fresh. With 12–15 hours of assembly in a steady rhythm, this blanket rewards patience with a finished heirloom that you’ll reach for again and again.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours
Pattern at a glance
Skill level
Intermediate
Time to make
12-15 Hours
Hook size
3.5 mm
Yarn weight
DK / #3
Finished size
Approx. 84 cm x 100 cm / 33 in x 39 in
Gauge
Approx. 6 stitches x 4 rounds per 10 cm square (rough estimate)
Yarn used
Main color: ~1500-2000g total, with small amounts for accent colors

Materials Needed

Main Fabric
  • 01
    Stylecraft Special DK yarns in a broad palette: Copper, Cypress, Duck Egg, Gold, Grape, Meadow, Mushroom, Mustard, Pistachio, Storm Blue, Parchment (for join/border), Warm Grey, White, Black, and additional accent colors listed in pattern notes.
Tools Required
  • 01
    Crochet hook size 3.5mm (E/4)
  • 02
    Scissors
  • 03
    Yarn needle for sewing ends
  • 04
    Stitch markers
  • 05
    Polyester stuffing for appliqué details (optional)
  • 06
    Pins for assembly

— Part 1 :

Round 1: Using White; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 2: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 3: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 4: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches remaining. 2SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 5: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches remaining. 3SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 6: CH1, SC into same stitch. 2SC, 2HDC, [3DC], 3DC, [3DC], 5HDC, [3DC], 5HDC, [3DC], 3DC, [3DC], 2HDC, 2SC. SLST to first SC. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing;
Round 7: To make the markings: Using Black; CH2, [2SC] in 2nd CH from hook.
Round 8: CH1, turn your work. SC into same stitch. SC.
Round 9: CH1, turn your work. SC into same stitch. [2SC].
Round 10: CH1, turn your work. SC into same stitch. 2SC.
Round 12: CH1, turn your work. SC into same stitch. [2SC], SC.
Round 13: CH1, turn your work. SC into same stitch. 3SC.
Round 14: Repeat row 13. Then fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing.
Round 16: To make the nose: Using Black; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then;
Round 19: To make the ears: Using White; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then;
Round 20: Attach Black to any stitch; CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each;

— Part 2 :

Round 1: Using Walnut; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 2: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 3: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 4: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches remaining. 2SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 5: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches remaining. 3SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 6: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *4SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have four stitches remaining. 4SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 7: CH1, SC into same stitch. 2SC, HDC, DC, [3DC], [2DC], 2DC, 2HDC, 4SC, 2HDC, [2HDC], 2HDC, 4SC, 2HDC, 2DC, [2DC], [3DC], DC, HDC, 4SC. SLST to first SC. Fasten off,;
Round 8: To make the ears: Using Camel; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 9: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC. Fasten off.
Round 10: Attach Walnut to any stitch; CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between *;
Round 12: To make the muzzle: Using Camel; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then;
Round 13: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST;
Round 14: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch;

— Part 3 :

Round 1: Using Walnut; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 2: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 3: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 4: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches remaining. 2SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 5: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. 2HDC, DC, [2DC], DC, 2HDC, [2SC], 3SC, 3HDC. [2DC] into each of the next 3 stitches. 3HDC, 3SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 6: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. 2HDC, [2HDC], 4HDC, [2HDC], 2HDC, [2SC], [3HDC], 6SC, HDC, [3HDC], [3HDC], HDC, 6SC, [3HDC]. SLST to first SC. Fasten off. (Note: where you;
Round 7: To make the right horn: Using Cream; CH9, SLST into 2nd CH from hook. 2SC, SC2TOG, HDC2TOG, DC. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing.
Round 8: To make the left horn: Using Cream; CH7, SLST into 2nd CH from hook. 2SC, [2SC], [2HDC], DC. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing.
Round 10: To make the ears: Using Walnut; CH4, SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC. [4HDC] in final CH to;
Round 12: To make the muzzle: Using Mocha; CH5, SC in 2nd CH from hook. 2SC. [4SC] in final CH;
Round 13: CH1, SC into same stitch. SLST into each of the next 2 stitches. SC. [2SC] into each of the;
Round 15: To make the fluffy top: Using Walnut; CH7, SC in 2nd CH from hook. 4SC. [4SC] in final;
Round 16: CH1, [3HDC] into same stitch. SLST into next stitch. *[3HDC] into next stitch, SLST into;

— Part 4 :

Round 1: Using Buttermilk; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 2: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 3: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 4: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches remaining. 2SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 5: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches remaining. 3SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 6: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *4SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have four stitches remaining. 4SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 7: CH1, SC into same stitch. Proceed to work 1 SC into each stitch around. SLST to first SC. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing your completed appliqué onto it’s square.
Round 8: To make the muzzle: Using White; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 9: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC. Fasten off.
Round 10: Attach Black to the BACK LOOP ONLY of any stitch; CH1, SLST into the BACK LOOPS;
Round 11: Skip the next 2 stitches and attach Black to the BACK LOOP ONLY of the next; CH1,;
Round 13: To make the ears: Using Black; CH5, SC in 2nd CH from hook. 2SC. [4SC] in final CH to;
Round 14: Attach Buttermilk to the same stitch from where you just fastened off; CH1, HDC into;

— Part 5 :

Round 1: Using Camel; CH2, [2SC] in 2nd CH from hook.
Round 2: CH1, turn your work. SC into same stitch. SC. 3 - 5. Repeat row 2.
Round 6: CH1, turn your work. [2SC] into same stitch. [2SC].
Round 7: CH1, turn your work. SC into same stitch. [2SC], [2SC], SC.
Round 8: CH1, turn your work. SC into same stitch. [2SC], 2SC, [2SC], SC.
Round 9: CH1, turn your work. SC into same stitch. 7SC. 10. Repeat row 9.
Round 11: CH1, turn your work. [3SC] into same stitch. [2SC], 4SC, [2SC], [3SC].
Round 12: CH1, turn your work. HDC into same stitch. 12DC, HDC. Fasten off, leaving a long enough;
Round 13: Using Cream; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into;
Round 14: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST;
Round 15: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch;
Round 16: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches;
Round 17: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches;
Round 18: CH1, SC into same stitch. 2SC, 2HDC, [3DC], 3DC, [3DC], 5HDC, [3DC], 5HDC, [3DC],;
Round 20: To make the nose: Using Black; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then;
Round 23: To make the ears: Using Cream; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then;
Round 24: Attach Camel to any stitch; CH1, SC into same stitch. 2SC, CH3 and SLST into 3rd CH;
Round 26: To make the antlers: Using Mocha; CH15, SLST in 2nd CH from hook. SLST into each of;

— Part 6 :

Round 1: Using Warm Grey; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 2: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 3: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 4: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches remaining. 2SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 5: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches remaining. 3SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 6: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *4SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * once more. HDC, 3DC, [2DC], 3DC, HDC, [2SC]. Repeat between * once more. 4SC. SLST to first SC.
Round 7: CH1, SC into same stitch. Proceed to work 1 SC into each stitch around. SLST to first SC to join. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing your completed appliqué onto it’s;
Round 8: To make the muzzle: Using Camel; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 9: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 10: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch;
Round 11: CH1, SC into same stitch. 4SC, [2HDC], 2DC, [2HDC], 4SC, [2HDC], 2DC, [2HDC], SC.
Round 14: To make the fringe: Using Black; CH14, SLST into 2nd CH from hook. SLST into each of;
Round 16: To make the ears: Using Camel; CH6, SC in 2nd CH from hook. 3SC. [3SC] in final CH to;
Round 17: Attach Warm Grey to very first stitch; CH1, SC into same stitch. 2SC, 2HDC, [3DC],;

— Part 7 :

Round 1: Using Warm Grey; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 2: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 3: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 4: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches remaining. 2SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 5: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches remaining. 3SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 6: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *4SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have four stitches remaining. 4SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 7: CH1, SC into same stitch. Proceed to work 1 SC into each stitch around. SLST to first SC. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing your completed appliqué onto it’s square.
Round 8: To make the ears: Using Vintage Peach; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 9: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 10: CH1, [2HDC] into same stitch. HDC, [2SC], SC, [2SC], HDC, [2HDC], HDC, [2SC], SC,;
Round 11: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. [2SC], 6SC. [2SC] into each of the next 3 stitches. 6SC,;
Round 12: Attach Warm Grey to the same stitch from where you just fastened off; CH2, DC into;
Round 14: To make the trunk: Using Warm Grey; CH15, HDC in 2nd CH from hook. HDC2TOG,;

— Part 8 :

Round 1: Using Spice; CH2, [3SC] in 2nd CH from hook.
Round 2: CH1, turn your work. SC into same stitch. 2SC. 3 - 5. Repeat row 2.
Round 6: CH1, turn your work. [2SC] into same stitch. SC, [2SC].
Round 7: CH1, turn your work. SC into same stitch. 4SC.
Round 9: CH1, turn your work. Skip the first 2 stitches and work [9DC] into the next stitch (the centre stitch). Then SLST into the final stitch of the row.
Round 10: CH1, turn your work. Into the final DC stitch of the [9DC] you just created, work a SC *SC;
Round 11: CH1, turn your work. SC into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * twice more.
Round 12: CH1, turn your work. [3SC] into same stitch. 4SC, [2SC], 3SC, [2SC], 4SC, [3SC].
Round 13: CH1, turn your work. [2SC] into same stitch. 18SC, [2SC]. Fasten off, leaving a long;
Round 14: Using White; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre;
Round 15: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST;
Round 16: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch;
Round 17: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches;
Round 18: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches;
Round 19: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *4SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * once more. 2HDC, 2DC,;
Round 20: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *5SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * once more. 2SC, 4HDC,;
Round 22: To make the ears: Using White; CH5, SC in 2nd CH from hook. 2SC. [4SC] in final CH to;
Round 23: Attach Spice to the same stitch from where you just fastened off; CH1, HDC into same;
Round 25: To make the nose: Using Black; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then;

— Part 9 :

Round 1: Using Meadow; CH7, SC into 2nd CH from hook. 4SC. [5SC] into final CH to turn the corner. Working into the other side of your starting CH; 4SC. [4SC] into final CH, then;
Round 2: CH1, [2HDC] into same stitch. 4HDC. [2HDC] into each of the next 5 stitches. 4HDC. [2HDC] into each of the next 4 stitches. SLST to first HDC.
Round 3: CH1, HDC into same stitch. 10HDC, [2HDC], [2DC], [2HDC], 11HDC, [2HDC], [2DC], [2HDC]. SLST to first HDC to join. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing your;
Round 4: To make the eyes: Using White; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 5: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC. Fasten off.
Round 6: Attach Meadow to any stitch; CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST to first SC. Fasten off, leaving a long enough;

— Part 10 :

Round 1: Using Cream; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 2: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 3: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 4: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches remaining. 2SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 5: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches remaining. 3SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 6: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *4SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * once more. 2HDC, 2DC, [3DC], 2DC, 2HDC, [2SC]. Repeat between * once more. 4SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 7: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *5SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * once more. 2SC, 4HDC, [4DC], 4HDC, 2SC, [2SC]. Repeat between * once more. 4SC. SLST into first SC. Fasten;
Round 8: To make the muzzle and markings: Using Cream; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 9: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 10: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch;
Round 11: Attach Walnut to any stitch; CH1, SC into same stitch. 5SC. Fasten off.
Round 12: Attach Camel to the second stitch; CH1, SC into same stitch. 3SC.
Round 13: CH1, turn your work. SC2TOG, SC2TOG. Omit the remaining stitch.
Round 14: CH1, turn your work. SC into same stitch. SC.
Round 15: CH1, turn your work. [2SC] into same stitch. [2SC].
Round 16: CH1, turn your work. SC into same stitch. [2SC], [2SC], SC.
Round 17: CH1, turn your work. SC into same stitch. [2SC], 2SC, [2SC], SC.
Round 18: CH1, turn your work. SC into same stitch. 7SC. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for;
Round 19: To make the horns: Attach Warm Grey to the first SC stitch of the last row; CH1, [2SC];
Round 20: CH1, turn your work. SC2TOG, 2SC.
Round 21: CH1, turn your work. [2SC] into same stitch. SC2TOG.
Round 22: CH1, turn your work. SC into same stitch. 2SC.
Round 26: CH1, turn your work. SC into same stitch. SC2TOG.
Round 27: CH1, turn your work. SC2TOG. Fasten off.
Round 28: Turn your work and attach Warm Grey to the final SC stitch of row 18; CH1, [2SC] into;

— Part 11 :

Round 39: To make the ears: Using Cream; CH6, SC in 2nd CH from hook. 3SC. [3SC] in final CH to;
Round 40: Attach Camel to very first stitch; CH1, SC into same stitch. 2SC, 2HDC, [3DC], 2HDC,;
Round 41: Attach Walnut to the first DC of the [3DC] cluster; CH1, into the next stitch work [SC, CH2;

— Part 12 :

Round 1: Using Buttermilk; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 2: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 3: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 4: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches remaining. 2SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 5: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches remaining. 3SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 6: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *4SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * once more. HDC, 3DC, [2DC], 3DC, HDC, [2SC]. Repeat between * once more. 4SC. SLST to first SC.
Round 7: CH1, SC into same stitch. Proceed to work 1 SC into each stitch around. SLST to first SC to join. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing your completed appliqué onto it’s;
Round 8: To make the muzzle: Using Mocha; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 9: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 10: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch;
Round 11: CH1, SC into same stitch. 4SC, [2HDC], 2DC, [2HDC], 4SC, [2HDC], 2DC, [2HDC], SC.
Round 13: To make the ears: Using Buttermilk; CH5, SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC, HDC. [5HDC] into;
Round 15: To make the horns: Using Mocha; CH6, SLST into 2nd CH from hook. SLST into each of;

— Part 13 :

Round 1: Using Camel; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 2: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 3: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 4: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches remaining. 2SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 5: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches remaining. 3SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 6: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *4SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * once more. HDC, 3DC, [2DC], 3DC, HDC, [2SC]. Repeat between * once more. 4SC. SLST to first SC. Fasten off,;
Round 7: To make the muzzle: Using Cream; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 8: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 9: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing.
Round 12: To make the left horn: Using Cream; CH12, SLST into 2nd CH from hook. 2SC, SC2TOG,;
Round 13: To make the right horn: Using Cream; CH10, SLST into 2nd CH from hook. 2SC, [2SC],;
Round 15: To make the ears: Using Camel; CH6, HDC in 2nd CH from hook. 2HDC, SC. [3SC] in final;
Round 17: To make the beard: Using Mocha; CH5, SC in 2nd CH from hook. 3SC.
Round 18: CH5, SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in each of the next 3 CH. Turn your work and SLST into;

— Part 14 :

Round 1: Using Camel; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 2: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 3: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 4: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches remaining. 2SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 5: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches remaining. 3SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 6: CH1, SC into same stitch. 4SC. CH3, HDC in 2nd CH from hook, DC in next CH, then SLST into the next stitch on your piece. 19SC. SLST into next stitch. CH3, HDC in 2nd CH;
Round 7: To make the muzzle: Using Camel; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 8: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 9: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing.
Round 11: To make the nose: Using Black; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then;
Round 14: To make the spikes: Using Walnut; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then;
Round 15: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST;
Round 16: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch;
Round 17: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches;
Round 18: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches;
Round 19: *CH6, SLST into 2nd CH from hook. SC into each of the next 4 CH. SLST into the next;

— Part 15 :

Round 1: Using Warm Grey; CH7, SC into 2nd CH from hook. 4SC. [5SC] into final CH to turn the corner. Working into the other side of your starting CH; 4SC. [4SC] into final CH, then;
Round 2: CH1, [2HDC] into same stitch. 4HDC. [2HDC] into each of the next 5 stitches. 4HDC. [2HDC] into each of the next 4 stitches. SLST to first HDC.
Round 3: CH1, [2HDC] into same stitch. [2HDC], 7HDC. [2HDC] into each of the next 7 stitches. 7HDC. [2HDC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first HDC.
Round 4: CH1, SC into same stitch. 2SC, 10HDC, 11SC, 10HDC, 8SC. SLST to first SC to join. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing your completed appliqué onto it’s square.
Round 5: To make the muzzle: Using Warm Grey; CH7, SC into 2nd CH from hook. 4SC. [5SC] into final CH to turn the corner. Working into the other side of your starting CH; 4SC. [4SC] into;
Round 6: CH1, [2HDC] into same stitch. 4HDC. [2HDC] into each of the next 5 stitches. 4HDC. [2HDC] into each of the next 4 stitches. SLST to first HDC.
Round 7: CH1, HDC into same stitch. 12HDC. *SLST into next stitch, [6HDC] into next, SLST into next*. 6SC. Repeat between * once more. 3HDC. SLST to first SC to join. Fasten off,;
Round 9: To make the ears: Using Vintage Peach; CH5, SC in 2nd CH from hook. 2SC. [4SC] in final CH to turn the corner. Working into the other side of your starting CH; 2SC. [3SC] into;
Round 10: Attach Warm Grey to the same stitch from where you just fastened off; CH1, SC into same;
Round 13: To make the teeth: Using White; CH4, SC in 2nd CH from hook. 2SC.
Round 14: CH1, turn your work. SC into same stitch. 2SC.
Round 15: Repeat row 14. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing.

— Part 16 :

Round 1: Using Warm Grey; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 2: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 3: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 4: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches remaining. 2SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 5: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches remaining. 3SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 6: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *4SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have four stitches remaining. 4SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 7: CH1, SC into same stitch. 2SC, 2HDC, [2HDC], [2HDC], 3HDC, 3SC, [2HDC], 7DC, [2HDC], 3SC, 3HDC, [2HDC], [2HDC], 2HDC, 4SC. SLST to first SC. Fasten off, leaving a;
Round 8: To make the ears: Using White; CH3, and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, 6DC into centre of loop. SLST into first SC to join.
Round 9: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST into first SC.
Round 10: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch;
Round 11: Attach Warm Grey to any stitch; CH1, SC into same stitch. 4SC. [SC CH2 SC] into each of;
Round 13: To make the nose: Using Black; CH4, SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC. [4SC] into final CH to;
Round 14: CH1, SC into same stitch. HDC, [HDC DC], 2HDC, [DC HDC], HDC, SC, [SC HDC], [HDC;

— Part 17 :

Round 1: Using White; CH6, SC into 2nd CH from hook. 3SC. [5SC] into final CH to turn the corner. Working into the other side of your starting CH; 3SC. [4SC] into final CH, then SLST to first;
Round 2: CH1, [2HDC] into same stitch. 3HDC. [2HDC] into each of the next 5 stitches. 3HDC. [2HDC] into each of the next 4 stitches. SLST to first HDC.
Round 3: CH1, [2HDC] into same stitch. [2HDC], 6HDC. [2HDC] into each of the next 7 stitches. 2DC, 2TR, 2DC. [2HDC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first HDC.
Round 4: CH1, SC into same stitch. 17SC, 5HDC, 3DC, 2TR, 3DC, 5HDC, 4SC. SLST to first SC to join. Fasten off.
Round 5: Attach Warm Grey to the same stitch from where you just fastened off; CH1 (counts as first SLST), SC into next stitch. SC, 2HDC, 5DC, 2HDC, 2SC. SLST into next stitch. Fasten;
Round 6: To make the eyes: Using Buttermilk; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 7: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC. Fasten off.
Round 8: Attach Black to any stitch; CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST to first SC. Fasten off, leaving a long enough;
Round 11: To make the muzzle: Using Black; CH4, SC into 2nd CH from hook. HDC. [6DC] into final;
Round 13: To make the ears: Using Warm Grey; CH5, SC in 2nd CH from hook. 2SC. [4SC] in final;
Round 14: Attach White to the same stitch from where you just fastened off; CH1, HDC into same;

— Part 18 :

Round 1: Using Camel; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 2: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 3: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 4: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches remaining. 2SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 5: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches remaining. 3SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 6: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *4SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have four stitches remaining. 4SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 7: CH1, SC into same stitch. 12SC. *[6HDC] into next, then SC into next.* 9SC. Repeat between * once more. 10SC. SLST to first SC. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for;
Round 8: To make the muzzle: Using Cream; CH5, SC in 2nd CH from hook. 2SC. [4SC] in final CH to turn the corner. Working into the other side of your starting CH; 2SC. [3SC] into final,;
Round 9: CH1, SC into same stitch. 2HDC, SC. [2SC] into each of the next 2 stitches. SC, 2HDC, SC. [2SC] into each of the next 2 stitches. SLST to first SC to join. Fasten off, leaving a;
Round 12: To make the mane: Using Copper; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then;
Round 13: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST;
Round 14: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch;
Round 15: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches;
Round 16: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches;
Round 17: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *4SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have four stitches;
Round 18: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *5SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have five stitches;
Round 19: CH1, SC into same stitch. Proceed to work 1 SC into each stitch around. SLST to first SC.
Round 20: CH1 (counts as first SLST), *skip the next stitch and work [7DC] into next, skip the next;

— Part 19 :

Round 1: Using Cream; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 2: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 3: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 4: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches remaining. 2SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 5: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches remaining. 3SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 6: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *4SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have four stitches remaining. 4SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 7: CH1 (counts as first SLST). *Into the next stitch work [4HDC], then skip the next stitch and SLST into the next* - repeat between * 10 more times. Into the next stitch work [4HDC],;
Round 8: To make the muzzle: Using Camel; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 9: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 10: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch;
Round 13: To make the ears: Using Camel; CH6, HDC in 2nd CH from hook. 2HDC, SC. [3SC] in final;

— Part 20 :

Round 1: Using Walnut; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 2: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 3: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 4: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches remaining. 2SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 5: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches remaining. 3SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 6: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *4SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have four stitches remaining. 4SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 7: CH1, SC into same stitch. Proceed to work 1 SC into each stitch around. SLST to first SC. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing your completed appliqué onto it’s square.
Round 8: To make the face: Using Camel; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 9: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 10: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch;
Round 11: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches;
Round 12: CH1, SC into same stitch. 8SC. Skip the next stitch and work [7DC] into the next, skip the;
Round 13: To make the muzzle: Using Camel; CH6, SC into 2nd CH from hook. 3SC. [4SC] into final;
Round 14: CH1, [2HDC] into same stitch. 3HDC. [2HDC] into each of the next 4 stitches. 3HDC.
Round 15: CH1, HDC into same stitch. 6HDC. [2HDC] into each of the next 4 stitches. 7HDC. [2HDC];
Round 17: To make the nose: Using Black; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then;
Round 20: To make the ears: Using Walnut; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then;
Round 21: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST;
Round 22: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch;
Round 23: CH1, SC into same stitch. Proceed to work 1 SC into each stitch around. SLST to first SC;

— Part 21 :

Round 1: Using Warm Grey; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 2: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 3: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 4: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches remaining. 2SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 5: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches remaining. 3SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 6: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *4SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * once more. 2HDC, 2DC, [3DC], 2DC, 2HDC, [2SC]. Repeat between * once more. 4SC. SLST into first SC. Fasten;
Round 7: To make the nose: Using Vintage Peach; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join. Fasten off, leaving a long;
Round 11: To make the ears: Using Vintage Peach; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1,;
Round 12: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST;
Round 13: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch;
Round 14: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches;
Round 15: Attach Warm Grey to any stitch; CH1, SC into same stitch. Proceed to work 1 SC in each;

— Part 22 :

Round 1: Using Walnut; CH7, SC into 2nd CH from hook. 4SC. [5SC] into final CH to turn the corner. Working into the other side of your starting CH; 4SC. [4SC] into final CH, then;
Round 2: CH1, [2HDC] into same stitch. 4HDC. [2HDC] into each of the next 5 stitches. 4HDC. [2HDC] into each of the next 4 stitches. SLST to first HDC.
Round 3: CH1, [2HDC] into same stitch. [2HDC], 7HDC. [2HDC] into each of the next 7 stitches. 7HDC. [2HDC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first HDC.
Round 4: CH1, HDC into same stitch. [DC TR], CH3 and SLST into 3rd CH from hook, [TR DC], 2HDC, 2SC. SLST into next stitch. 2SC, 2HDC, [DC TR], CH3 and SLST into 3rd CH from;
Round 5: To make the eyes: Using White; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 6: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC. Fasten off.
Round 7: Attach Mocha to any stitch; CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST to first SC. Fasten off, leaving a long enough;
Round 10: To make the beak: Using Mustard; CH5, SC in 2nd CH from hook. 3SC.
Round 11: CH1, turn your work. SC2TOG, SC2TOG.
Round 12: CH1, turn your work. SC2TOG. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing.

— Part 23 :

Round 1: Using White; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 2: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 3: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 4: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches remaining. 2SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 5: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches remaining. 3SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 6: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *4SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have four stitches remaining. 4SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 7: CH1, SC into same stitch. 2SC, HDC, DC, [3DC], [2SC], 2DC, 2HDC, 4SC, 2HDC, [2HDC], 2HDC, 4SC, 2HDC, 2DC, [2SC], [3DC], DC, HDC, 4SC. SLST to first SC. Fasten off,;
Round 8: To make the ears: Using Black; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 9: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 10: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch;
Round 12: To make the eye markings: Using Black; CH6, SC in 2nd CH from hook. 2SC, HDC. [5DC];
Round 14: To make the muzzle: Using White; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then;
Round 15: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST;
Round 16: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch;

— Part 24 :

Round 1: Using Black; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 2: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 3: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 4: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches remaining. 2SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 5: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches remaining. 3SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 6: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *4SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have four stitches remaining. 4SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 7: CH1, SC into same stitch. Proceed to work 1 SC into each stitch around. SLST to first SC. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing your completed appliqué onto it’s square.
Round 8: To make the face: Using White; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 9: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 10: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch;
Round 11: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches;
Round 12: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *4SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * once more. 4SC. Skip the;
Round 14: To make the beak: Using Mustard; CH5, SC in 2nd CH from hook. 3SC.
Round 15: CH1, turn your work. SC2TOG, SC2TOG.
Round 16: CH1, turn your work. SC2TOG. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing.

— Part 25 :

Round 1: Using Warm Grey; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 2: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 3: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 4: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches remaining. 2SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 5: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches remaining. 3SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 6: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. HDC, 2DC, HDC, [2SC]. *4SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * 3 more times. HDC, 2DC, HDC. SLST into first SC.
Round 7: CH1, SC into same stitch. 5SC, [2SC], 23SC, [2SC], 5SC. SLST to first SC. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing your completed appliqué onto it’s square. (Note:;
Round 8: To make the ears: Using Vintage Peach; CH10, SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC, 2HDC, 2DC, 2HDC. [5SC] into final CH to turn the corner. Working into the other side of your starting;
Round 9: Attach Warm Grey to the very first stitch; CH1, SC into same stitch. 9SC, [HDC 2DC HDC], 10SC. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing.
Round 11: To make the muzzle: Using White; CH5, SC in 2nd CH from hook. 2SC. [4SC] in final CH;
Round 12: CH1, SC into same stitch. 2HDC, SC, [2SC]. [7DC] into next stitch, then skip the next;

— Part 26 :

Round 1: Using Warm Grey; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 2: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 3: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 4: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches remaining. 2SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 5: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches remaining. 3SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 6: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *4SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * once more. HDC, 3DC, [2DC], 3DC, HDC, [2SC]. Repeat between * once more. 4SC. SLST to first SC.
Round 7: CH1, SC into same stitch. Proceed to work 1 SC into each stitch around. SLST to first SC to join. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing your completed appliqué onto it’s;
Round 8: To make the muzzle: Using Warm Grey; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 9: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 10: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch;
Round 11: CH1, SC into same stitch. 4SC, [2HDC], 2DC, [2HDC], 4SC, [2HDC], 2DC, [2HDC], SC.
Round 13: To make the horn: Using White; CH6, SLST into 2nd CH from hook. 2SC, 2HDC. Fasten;
Round 15: To make the ears: Using Warm Grey; CH5, SC in 2nd CH from hook. 2SC. [5HDC] in final;

— Part 27 :

Round 1: Using Camel; CH6, SC into 2nd CH from hook. 3SC. [5SC] into final CH to turn the corner. Working into the other side of your starting CH; 3SC. [4SC] into final CH, then SLST to first;
Round 2: CH1, [2HDC] into same stitch. 3HDC. [2HDC] into each of the next 5 stitches. 3HDC. [2HDC] into each of the next 4 stitches. SLST to first HDC.
Round 3: CH1, [2HDC] into same stitch. [2HDC], 6DC. [2HDC] into each of the next 7 stitches. 6DC. [2HDC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first HDC.
Round 4: CH1, SC into same stitch. Proceed to work 1 SC in each stitch around. SLST to first SC to join. Fasten off.
Round 5: Attach Mocha to the same stitch from where you just fastened off; CH1, SC into same stitch. 12HDC, SC, [2SC], 4SC, [2SC], SC, 12HDC, SC, [2SC], 4SC, [2SC]. SLST to first;
Round 6: To make the eye markings: Using Walnut; CH6, SC in 2nd CH from hook. 2SC, HDC. [5DC] into final CH to turn the corner. Working into the other side of your starting CH;
Round 8: To make the nose: Using Black; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail;

— Part 28 :

Round 1: Using Spice; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 2: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 3: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 4: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches remaining. 2SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 5: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches remaining. 3SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 6: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *4SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have four stitches remaining. 4SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 7: CH1, SC into same stitch. Proceed to work 1 SC into each stitch around. SLST to first SC. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing your completed appliqué onto it’s square.
Round 8: To make the muzzle: Using White; CH5, SC in 2nd CH from hook. 2SC. [4SC] in final CH to turn the corner. Working into the other side of your starting CH; 2SC. [3SC] into final,;
Round 9: CH1, SC into same stitch. 2HDC, SC. [2SC] into each of the next 2 stitches. SC, 2HDC, SC. [2SC] into each of the next 2 stitches. SLST to first SC to join. Fasten off, leaving a;
Round 12: To make the ears: Using White; CH5, SC in 2nd CH from hook. 2SC. [4SC] in final CH to;
Round 13: Attach Spice to the same stitch from where you just fastened off; CH1, HDC into same;

— Part 29 :

Round 1: Using Mocha; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 2: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 3: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 4: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches remaining. 2SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 5: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches remaining. 3SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 6: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *4SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have four stitches remaining. 4SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 7: CH1, SC into same stitch. Proceed to work 1 SC into each stitch around. SLST to first SC. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing your completed appliqué onto it’s square.
Round 8: To make the snout: Using Vintage Peach; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 9: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 10: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch;
Round 11: To make the right tusk: Using Cream; CH10, SLST into 2nd CH from hook. 2SC, SC2TOG,;
Round 12: To make the left tusk: Using Cream; CH8, SLST into 2nd CH from hook. 2SC, [2SC],;
Round 16: To make the ears: Using Vintage Peach; CH5, SC in 2nd CH from hook. 2SC. [4SC] in;
Round 17: Attach Mocha to the same stitch from where you just fastened off; CH1, HDC into same;

— Part 30 :

Round 1: Using White; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 2: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 3: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 4: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches remaining. 2SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 5: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches remaining. 3SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 6: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *4SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * once more. 2HDC, 2DC, [3DC], 2DC, 2HDC, [2SC]. Repeat between * once more. 4SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 7: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *5SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * once more. 2SC, 4HDC, [4DC], 4HDC, 2SC, [2SC]. Repeat between * once more. 4SC. SLST into first SC. Fasten;
Round 8: To make the muzzle: Using White; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 9: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 10: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch;
Round 11: Attach Warm Grey to any stitch; CH1, SC into same stitch. 2SC.
Round 12: CH1, turn your work. SC into same stitch, 2SC.
Round 13: CH1, turn your work. [2SC] into same stitch. SC, [2SC].
Round 14: CH1, turn your work. Skip the first 2 stitches and work [9DC] into the next stitch (the;
Round 15: CH1, turn your work. Into the final DC stitch of the [9DC] you just created, work a SC *SC;
Round 16: CH1, turn your work. SC into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * twice more.
Round 17: CH1, turn your work. [3SC] into same stitch. 4SC, [2SC], 3SC, [2SC], 4SC, [3SC]. Fasten;
Round 19: To make the nose: Using Black; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then;
Round 22: To make the ears: Using White; CH5, SC in 2nd CH from hook. 2SC. [4SC] in final CH to;
Round 23: Attach Warm Grey to the same stitch from where you just fastened off; CH1, HDC into;

— Part 31 :

Round 1: Using White; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 2: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 3: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch remaining. SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 4: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *2SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have two stitches remaining. 2SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 5: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *3SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have three stitches remaining. 3SC. SLST into first SC.
Round 6: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *4SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * once more. HDC, 3DC, [2DC], 3DC, HDC, [2SC]. Repeat between * once more. 4SC. SLST to first SC.
Round 7: CH1, SC into same stitch. Proceed to work 1 SC into each stitch around. SLST to first SC to join. Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing your completed appliqué onto it’s;
Round 8: To make the muzzle: Using Warm Grey; CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH1, then work 6SC into centre of loop. SLST to first SC to join.
Round 9: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. Proceed to work [2SC] into each of the next 5 stitches. SLST to first SC.
Round 10: CH1, [2SC] into same stitch. *SC, [2SC]* - repeat between * until you have one stitch;
Round 11: CH1, SC into same stitch. 4SC, [2HDC], 2SC, [2HDC], 4SC, [2HDC], 2DC, [2HDC], SC.
Round 12: CH1, HDC into same stitch. 3HDC. Turn your work.
Round 13: Repeat row 12. Then fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing.
Round 14: Repeat row 12. Then fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing.
Round 15: Repeat row 12. Then fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing.
Round 16: Repeat row 12. Then fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing.
Round 17: Repeat row 12. Then fasten off, leaving a long enough tail for sewing.
Round 20: To make the ears: Using Warm Grey; CH5, SC in 2nd CH from hook. 2SC. [4SC] in final;
Round 21: Attach Black to the same stitch from where you just fastened off; CH1, HDC into same;

— Part 32 :

Round 1: CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH3, work 2 DC into centre of loop. *CH2, 3 DC into centre* - repeat between * twice more. CH2, SLST into 3rd CH of the beginning;
Round 2: Turn your work, SLST into CH2 corner space. [CH3 2DC] into corner space. *In the next CH2 space make [3DC CH2 3DC] * - repeat between * twice more. Then work 3DC into;
Round 3: Turn your work, SLST into CH2 corner space. [CH3 2DC] into corner space. *3DC in between each of the 3DC clusters from the previous round, working [3DC CH2 3DC] into;
Round 8: Turn your work, SLST into corner space. CH1 (does NOT count as a stitch), SC into corner space. Proceed to work 1 SC into each stitch around with [SC CH2 SC] in each CH2;
Round 9: Turn your work, SLST into corner space. CH1 (does NOT count as a stitch), HDC into corner space. { HDC. *HDC. Instead of working into the top of the next stitch; work a FPTR;
Round 10: Do NOT turn your work. CH1 (does NOT count as a stitch), work 1 SC into each stitch;

— Part 33 :

Round 1: CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH3, work 2 DC into centre. *CH2, 3 DC into centre* - repeat between * twice more. CH2, SLST into 3rd CH of beginning CH3 to join.
Round 2: Turn your work, SLST into corner space. CH3 (counts as first stitch), DC into corner space. *DC into each stitch across, [2DC CH2 2DC] into corner space* - repeat between * until;
Round 6: Turn your work, SLST into corner space. CH1 (does NOT count as a stitch), SC into corner space. { SC, *BBL, 3SC* - repeat between * until you have 2 stitches remaining on this;
Round 7: Turn your work, SLST into corner space. CH1 (does NOT count as a stitch), SC into corner space. *SC into each stitch across, [SC CH2 SC] into corner space* - repeat between * for;
Round 9: Turn your work, SLST into corner space. CH1 (does NOT count as a stitch), SC into corner space. Proceed to work 1 SC into each stitch around with [SC CH2 SC] in each CH2;

— Part 34 :

Round 1: CH3 and SLST into first CH to make a loop. CH3, work 2 DC into centre. *CH2, 3 DC into centre* - repeat between * twice more. CH2, SLST into 3rd CH of beginning CH3 to join.
Round 2: Turn your work, SLST into corner space. CH3 (counts as first stitch), DC into corner space. *DC into each stitch across, [2DC CH2 2DC] into corner space* - repeat between * until;
Round 7: Turn your work, SLST into corner space. CH1 (does NOT count as a stitch), HDC into corner space. { 2HDC. Instead of working into the top of the next stitch; work a FPTR;
Round 8: DO NOT turn your work. CH1 (does NOT count as a stitch), work 1 SC into each stitch around with [SC CH2 SC] in each CH2 corner space. SLST to first SC to join. Fasten off,;

— Part 35 :

Round 1: Starting with Square 1 (Mustard Square A with Monkey Appliqué), join Parchment to the first stitch after the CH2 corner at the top right of the square, CH4. *skip the next stitch, SC into;
Round 2: CH5, on Square 2 (Storm Blue Square C with Koala Appliqué) create a SC in the first stitch after the bottom right CH2 corner (working UP the right hand side of the square), *CH1,;
Round 3: CH3, remove your hook, insert your hook under the CH5 loop on the corner of Square 1, grab the working yarn loop and pull it through, CH3, SC in the first stitch after the CH2 corner on;
Round 4: When you come to the end of your first row of squares, continue down the side of the final square of the row (Copper Square A with Gazelle Appliqué), turn your work and then continue;
Round 5: CH5, create a SC in the first stitch after the CH2 on Square 6 (Gold Square B with Cheetah Appliqué), *CH1, remove your hook, insert your hook under the first CH3 loop of Square 1,;
Round 6: After completing the final CH3 loop; CH3, remove your hook, insert your hook under the CH5 loop at the bottom corner of Square 2, grab the working yarn loop and pull it through the CH5;
Round 7: After completing the final CH3 loop; CH3, remove your hook, insert your hook under the CH5 loop on the bottom left corner of Square 1, grab the working yarn loop and pull it through,;
Round 8: Continue to join your squares in the same way that you have this far, repeating the above methods for the rest of your squares. When you reach the final stitch along the bottom of your;

— Part 36 :

Round 1: Continuing from Joining (using Parchment); SLST into CH3 loop space. CH3 (counts as first stitch), DC into same space. Continue to make 2DC into each CH3 loop space around, with;
Round 2: CH2 (counts as first stitch), HDC into the BACK LOOP ONLY of the next stitch. Proceed to work 1 HDC into the BACK LOOP ONLY of each stitch around, with [2HDC CH2 2HDC] in;
Round 3: CH1 (counts as first SLST), turn your work so that the wrong side is facing you. *DC into next stitch, SLST into next* - repeat between * around, working [SLST DC SLST] in each CH2;

Assembly Instructions

  1. Attach head to body with alignment at the neck area; sew securely using whipstitch.
  2. Position arms on either side of the body between rounds 12-14; sew firmly in place.
  3. Sew legs to bottom, spacing evenly for balance and stability.
  4. Attach ears to the top of the head, evenly spaced between rounds 6-8; sew in place.
  5. Attach all facial features (eyes, nose, mouth) according to the photos; secure well.

Important Notes

  • Use stitch markers to track rounds, especially at color changes and shaping.
  • Stuff softly and evenly to maintain smooth contours; avoid over-stuffing near join lines.
  • Weave in ends as you work to minimize finishing time.
  • Block or lightly press the squares if you prefer uniform sizing before joining.

As I close this walkthrough, I hope you can feel the Animal Kingdom Blanket Pattern taking shape in your hands. It’s a thoughtful project that blends simple stitches with a lively palette to tell a little story on your couch. From the magic ring to the last parchment border, every step is a reminder that handmade items carry a place in our homes. This pattern uses DK yarn in Stylecraft Special DK colors, with a 3.5 mm hook to balance speed and precision. Now you get to weave, join, and trim while imagining your own forest, meadow, or seaside vignette coming to life. I can’t wait to see the colors you choose and the animal silhouettes that appear as you crochet.Once finished, care is straightforward: wash on a gentle cycle or hand wash, lay flat to dry, and avoid heavy agitation that could distort the border. With proper care, the blanket retains its soft hand and keeps colors bright after many seasons of use. It’s a multipurpose treasure—perfect for story time, movie nights, or a cozy nap on chilly days. Thank you for crocheting along with this free pattern and for inviting a little wild charm into your home. I hope it finds a forever corner where you, your family, and visitors can enjoy its comforting warmth. Happy crocheting, and may your Animal Kingdom Blanket Pattern become a cherished staple in your crafty repertoire.

Good to know

You ask, we answer

The blanket measures approximately 84 cm x 100 cm with the border, depending on tension.

Yes, but this will affect final size and density. Choose a hook size appropriate for your yarn weight.

This pattern is intermediate; basic stitches plus color changes and seaming will help achieve the best results.

Most crocheters complete it in 12-15 hours, depending on pace and color blocking, plus time for joining and finishing.

Joined blanket in progress with border
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