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Free Crochet Pattern
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Minecraft Character Amigurumi Pattern

Finished Minecraft Characters crochet pattern, view 1
4.4Rating
8-10 HoursTime
IntermediateSkill
Highlights

What makes it special

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

All-Day Adventure

Expect to spend about 8–10 hours to make one character from start to finish, including sewing, stuffing and facial embroidery for accurate Minecraft styling.

Intermediate Level

This intermediate-level collection is suited to crocheters comfortable with magic loop starts, working in the round, invisible decreases, simple colour changes and mattress stitch seaming for shaped square closures.

This little collection of Minecraft amigurumi offers a playful way to bring blocky game characters into the real world with yarn and a hook, and it is perfect for fans who like their toys pixel-perfect yet cuddly. The pack includes many of the iconic figures you recognise from the game, each redesigned into compact amigurumi shapes that sit neatly on a shelf or fit in the palm of your hand.

If you enjoy a mix of repeated round work and small assembly tasks, you will find these designs satisfying: heads and bodies are worked mostly in spirals, you will use clip markers for square decreases and you’ll finish each model with embroidered facial details that really make the character sing. The patterns are structured to give steady progress and a consistent method so you can make a whole set without losing momentum.

About This Minecraft Character Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern pack teaches you to crochet a small cast of Minecraft-inspired amigurumi characters including Alex, Creeper, Enderman, Ghast, Guardian and more using DK weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook. Each model is worked mostly in continuous rounds with clear shaping notes, clip marker guidance for square decreases, and simple facial embroidery instructions so you can build expressive faces. The designs use small pieces (heads, bodies, legs, spikes and brows) that sew together cleanly, and colour-change instructions are included for chest and hair details.

The set is compact and travel-friendly, ideal for making a shelf display or gifting a handmade Minecraft collection.

This collection creates a set of small blocky amigurumi characters inspired by Minecraft, each assembled from a series of simple spherical and rectangular shapes that are flattened and closed to form the classic pixelated silhouettes.

You will work heads, bodies, arms and legs mostly in DK yarn with a 3.5mm hook, follow explicit round counts for magic loop starts and watch the clip-marker guidance used to make square decreases on heads and bodies.

The instructions include stitch counts in braces, advice on invisible colour changes, mattress-stitch seaming and where to stuff the pieces to get the signature slightly squat plush look typical of these tiny game characters.

Finished Minecraft Characters crochet pattern, view 2

The patterns are written in US terms with clear abbreviations and a consistent spiral-round construction to reduce joins and give a neat fabric surface that mimics pixel edges.

Detailed face detail sections show how to sew blocky eyes, mouths and brows using contrasting yarn so you can personalise expressions for each character before final assembly.

Stitches & Skills You'll Use

Magic loop starts are used across the set to create neat, closed centres for heads, bodies and spikes, which keeps the features tidy and prevents holes at the beginning of each round. Single crochet in the round forms the primary fabric, delivering a dense surface that mimics the pixel blocks of the original game while remaining soft to the touch. The pattern also uses simple increases and decreases to shape spheres and short cylinders; you will frequently use 3SC increases and SC3TOG decreases to open and close square corners on heads and bodies.

Invisible decrease is recommended where possible to keep corners and flattened edges appearing neat and continuous; the pattern references an invisible decrease video for clarity and encourages practicing this technique before working rows 26–30 of the body or the top closure rounds of the head. Front loop only pick-ups are used to pull the final remaining stitches into a tight closure, and the instruction to pick up the front loop only helps keep the final seam tidy and less visible. Mattress stitch is described for seaming the top openings once the shaped decreases are done, which yields a flatter, game-accurate top than an overstuffed join would.

Simple colour-change techniques are used to block in hair, clothing and facial fields without long floats; the invisible colour change method is recommended at the last yarn-over so stitches remain consistent and the colour transition stays snug to the fabric. Basic embroidery for eyes and mouths is documented with order-of-operations advice so that outlines are sewn first and details filled in afterwards, ensuring crisp, readable faces at this small scale.

Why You'll Love This Minecraft Character Amigurumi Pattern

Colour & Yarn Inspiration

A traditional palette uses the greens, blacks and greys from the game for characters like Creeper and Enderman, but subtle shifts give fresh results: trading the standard green for mossy teal or olive makes a Creeper that feels more organic and earthy. For Alex and Steve variations choose muted denim and soft skin tones with a slightly darker yarn for hair to maintain contrast while preserving the simple blocky aesthetics used in the pattern.

Yarn fibre choice also affects the final look; a smooth acrylic DK gives crisp stitch definition and holds embroidered features well, while a wool blend introduces a softer halo that suits cuddle versions. For a plush, toy-friendly finish pick a DK acrylic blend and the recommended 3.5mm hook; if you want collectible minis experiment with a slightly smaller hook and a tighter tension on the same DK yarn for a denser fabric and smaller finished size. Accent colours like orange, red or teal are perfect for spikes, brows and hair highlights, and using small bits of contrasting yarn to embroider eyes gives you a readable face without adding bulk to the head surfaces.

Finished Minecraft Characters crochet pattern, view 4

Switch Things Up

I like to change up the colour palette to give each figure a fresh personality, swapping the standard greens for teal or moss shades when I want a subtler Creeper look.

When I want a cuddle-ready version I choose a softer DK blend and bump up the hook size by 0.5 mm to create a squishier fabric; alternatively I downsize with fingering-weight yarn and a smaller hook for pocket pals.

I often embroider different eye shapes or add tiny felt accessories such as a scarf or a little sword to Alex to turn him into a storyteller protagonist on my shelf.

For playful variations I add a tiny loop at the top and turn the smallest characters into keychains, using strong polyester thread and a small split ring to make them portable.

To make a posable version I run a thin piece of craft wire into the arm and leg cores before final stuffing, wrapping the ends so they do not poke through the fabric when bent.

I sometimes combine colour changes earlier in the leg rounds to create striped trousers or sleeves that match other characters in a themed set, which gives a coordinated display effect.

Try finishing faces with different expressions: a surprised open mouth, a little stitched grin, or sleepy half-lidded eyes to give each piece a distinct mood.

Mix fibres for texture: combine a small amount of cotton for crisp facial pieces with acrylic for the body to balance structure and softness in one character.

I recommend trying subtle highlights in hair or spikes by stitching a single contrasting loop into the surface before stuffing to suggest pixel variation on the creature’s back.

For display clusters I make three characters with related palettes so they read as a family, arranging them in a small crate or on a windowsill to create an attractive hand-made vignette.

Ways to Use & Gift It

These Minecraft amigurumi make excellent handmade gifts for gamers, younger fans and collectors because they are small, affordable to produce and instantly recognisable; a single Creeper or a matched pair of Alex and Enderman can be wrapped as a thoughtful birthday present that showcases the maker’s skill. I often finish a trio of characters as a themed gift set, packing them in recyclable tissue and a shallow box for a polished presentation that feels like a bespoke toy bundle.

They also work well as classroom or club projects where each student can be given a simple piece to complete and then assemble into a larger display; the repeated rounds make the techniques approachable for people learning to maintain consistent tension. For seasonal giving try making a duo with holiday-themed accessories such as mini scarves or felt hats, or stitch a small loop into the top of a Ghast so it becomes an ornament for a gamer’s tree. Finally, transform the smallest versions into keychains or zipper pulls for teachers, friends and family who appreciate tiny, portable handmade tokens.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Missing or ignoring clip markers for square decreases leads to uneven corners and warped head shapes; place and replace clip markers exactly where instructed and check counts before decreasing. Skipping the instruction to pick up front loop only for final closure can leave a gap when pulling tight; pick up the front loop of each remaining stitch as stated then pull evenly to close. Overstuffing limbs before closing the neck area will distort the body proportions and make seaming difficult; stuff slowly and check shape against the photos before completing the top closure. Changing colours without securing the last loop neatly causes loose floats and visible knots on the surface; use the invisible colour change method at the final yarn-over and weave in ends inside the piece. Failing to sew facial details in the specified order makes alignment tricky; pin the facial shapes in place, stitch the outline first then fill in with colour for a precise finish. Not counting stitches after a join or chain-bridge results in incorrect round totals and skipped decreases; recount the stitches after joining legs and after any CH join and correct immediately.

Maker's Notes

When I made the Creeper I used standard DK acrylic yarn and a 3.5mm hook and the whole figure took me about nine hours including seaming and face embroidery; the Guardian with all its spikes took closer to eleven hours due to the extra small pieces. I found that working in a slightly tighter tension than my usual gauge helped keep the stuffing from showing through the green fabric, especially on the ghast and enderman where the dark yarn can reveal gaps. Beginners often get stuck during the join that connects two legs with a chain bridge because it's easy to miss which stitch to slip into; I advise counting stitches carefully and using a marker at the chain bridge so you can identify the two joining points.

Another frequent stumbling block is the square corner decreases on the head and body: placing clip markers and moving them after each decrease made the process straightforward for me and prevented accidental misalignment. Testing also showed small differences in finished size when switching yarn brands, so I recommend making a quick test head to confirm your tension before committing to colour changes or sewing placement.

I tried a substitution: I tried one character in a softer DK wool blend on a 3.25mm hook and found the finished amigurumi was slightly fuller and measured about 11.5 cm tall compared with 10.5 cm in acrylic on 3.5mm; the wool created a warmer, fluffier surface and made embroidered details sit a little less crisp, but it was a nicer cuddle texture for gifting to a child.

Minecraft Character Amigurumi Pattern
Intermediate 8-10 Hours
Pattern at a glance
Skill level
Intermediate
Time to make
8-10 Hours
Hook size
3.5 mm (E/4)
Yarn weight
DK / #3
Finished size
Approx. 10-12 cm / 4-4.5 in tall
Gauge
Approximate gauge: 20 sc x 24 rounds = 10 cm square in DK on 3.5mm hook; tight tension recommended so stuffing does not show
Yarn used
Approximately 50-80g main colour per character (approx. 140-200 meters / 153-220 yards total depending on accessories)

Materials Needed

Main Fabric
  • 01
    DK weight yarn (approx. 50g each) in the following colours: black, brown, green, dark green, light green, pink, dark pink, orange, white, red, grey, teal, orange (accent), brown (accent)
  • 02
    Extra DK yarn for small details and spikes: dark green - 25g, dark pink - 15g, grey - 10g
  • 03
    Small amounts of white and black DK for eyes and mouth details (around 10g each)
  • 04
    Additional accent colours for Guardian and Parrot pieces: teal - 30g, orange - 20g
Tools Required
  • 01
    3.5mm crochet hook
  • 02
    Embroidery needle and scissors
  • 03
    Toy stuffing (polyester fibrefill)
  • 04
    4 x clip markers per character
  • 05
    Stitch markers
  • 06
    Yarn needle for sewing
  • 07
    Pins for assembly and placement
  • 08
    Optional safety eyes (if preferred)

— Part 1 :

Round 1: 4SC into a magic loop {4};
Round 2: 3SC into each ST around {12};
Round 3: SC around {12};
Round 4: SC around {12};
Round 5: SC around {12};
Round 6: SC around {12};
Round 7: SC around {12};
Round 8: SC around {12};
Round 9: SC around {12};
Round 10: SC around {12};
Round 11: SC11 (around the leg not including the stitch we SL ST into) SC1 into the chain we made, SC11;
Round 12: SC around {24};
Round 13: SC around {24};
Round 14: SC around {24};
Round 15: SC around {24};
Round 16: SC around {24};
Round 17: SC around {24};
Round 18: SC around {24};
Round 19: SC around {24};
Round 20: SC around {24};
Round 21: SC around {24};
Round 22: SC around {24};
Round 23: SC around {24};
Round 24: SC around {24};
Round 25: SC around {24};
Round 26: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) repeat 4 times, SC to end.

— Part 2 :

Round 1: 4SC into a magic loop {4};
Round 2: 3SC into each ST around {12};
Round 3: SC around {12};
Round 4: SC around {12};
Round 5: SC around {12};
Round 6: SC around {12};
Round 7: SC around {12};
Round 8: SC around {12};
Round 9: SC around {12};
Round 10: SC around {12};
Round 11: SC around {12};
Round 12: SC around {12};
Round 13: SC around {12};
Round 14: SC around {12};
Round 15: SC around {12};

— Part 3 :

Round 1: 8SC into a magic loop {8};
Round 2: (SC1, 3SC into the next ST) 4 times {16)
Round 3: SC2, 3SC into the next ST, (SC3, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC1 {24)
Round 4: SC3, 3SC into the next ST, (SC5, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC2 {32)
Round 5: SC4, 3SC into the next ST, (SC7, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC3 {40)
Round 6: SC around {40};
Round 7: SC around {40};
Round 8: SC to first marker in orange, including the stitch with the marker in, in pink SC8, in orange SC to end. {40};
Round 9: SC to first marker in orange, including the stitch with the marker in, SC3, in pink SC4, in orange SC to end. {40};
Round 10: SC to stitch before marker in orange, in pink SC10, in orange SC to end. {40};
Round 11: SC to stitch before marker in orange, in pink SC10, in orange SC to end. {40};
Round 12: SC to stitch before marker in orange, in pink SC10, in orange SC to end. {40};
Round 13: SC to stitch before marker in orange, in pink SC10, in orange SC to end. {40};
Round 14: SC to 2 stitches before marker in orange, in pink SC12, in orange SC to end. {40};
Round 15: SC to 2 stitches before marker in orange, in pink SC12, in orange SC to end. {40};
Round 16: SC to 2 stitches before marker in orange, in pink SC12, in orange SC to end. {40};
Round 17: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {32};
Round 18: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {24};
Round 19: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {16};
Round 20: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {8} -Remove markers;

— Part 4 :

Round 1: 8SC into a magic loop {8};
Round 2: (SC1, 3SC into the next ST) 4 times {16)
Round 3: SC2, 3SC into the next ST, (SC3, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC1 {24)
Round 4: SC3, 3SC into the next ST, (SC5, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC2 {32)
Round 5: SC around {32};
Round 6: SC around {32};
Round 7: SC around {32};
Round 8: SC around {32};
Round 9: SC around {32};
Round 10: SC around {32};
Round 11: SC around {32};
Round 12: SC around {32};
Round 13: SC around {32};
Round 14: SC around {32};
Round 15: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {24};
Round 16: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {16};
Round 17: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {8} -Remove markers;

— Part 5 :

Round 1: 8SC into a magic loop {8};
Round 2: (SC1, 3SC into the next ST) 4 times {16)
Round 3: SC2, 3SC into the next ST, (SC3, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC1 {24)
Round 4: SC around {24};
Round 5: SC around {24};
Round 6: SC around {24};
Round 7: SC around {24};
Round 8: SC around {24};
Round 9: SC around {24};
Round 10: SC around {24};
Round 11: SC around {24};
Round 12: SC around {24};
Round 13: SC around {24};
Round 14: SC around {24};
Round 15: SC around {24};
Round 16: SC around {24};
Round 17: SC around {24};
Round 18: SC around {24};
Round 19: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {16};
Round 20: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {8} -Remove markers;

— Part 6 :

Round 1: 8SC into a magic loop {8};
Round 2: (SC1, 3SC into the next ST) 4 times {16)
Round 3: SC around {16};
Round 4: SC around {16};
Round 5: SC around {16};
Round 6: SC around {16};
Round 7: SC around {16};
Round 8: (SC1, SC3TOG) 4 times {8} Join and FO.

— Part 7 :

Round 1: CH2, 5SC into the 2nd CH from hook {5};
Round 2: 2SC into every ST around {10};
Round 3: SC around {10};
Round 4: SC around {10};
Round 5: SC around {10};
Round 6: SC around {10};
Round 7: SC around {10};
Round 8: SC around {10};
Round 9: SC around {10};
Round 10: SC around {10};
Round 11: SC around {10};
Round 12: SC around {10};
Round 13: SC around {10};
Round 14: SC around {10};
Round 15: SC around {10};
Round 16: SC around {10};
Round 17: SC around {10};
Round 18: SC around {10};
Round 19: SC around {10};
Round 20: SC around {10};
Round 21: SC around {10};
Round 22: SC around {10};
Round 23: SC around {10};
Round 24: SC around {10};
Round 25: SC around {10};
Round 26: SC around {10};
Round 27: SC around {10};
Round 28: SC9 (around the leg not including the stitch we SL ST into) SC into one side of each of the CH3;
Round 29: SC around {24};
Round 30: SC around {24};
Round 31: SC around {24};
Round 32: SC around {24};
Round 33: SC around {24};
Round 34: SC around {24};
Round 35: SC around {24};
Round 36: SC around {24};
Round 37: SC around {24};
Round 38: SC around {24};
Round 39: SC around {24};
Round 40: SC around {24};
Round 41: SC around {24};
Round 42: SC around {24};
Round 43: SC around {24};
Round 44: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) repeat 4 times, SC to end.

— Part 8 :

Round 1: 8SC into a magic loop {8};
Round 2: (SC1, 3SC into the next ST) 4 times {16)
Round 3: SC2, 3SC into the next ST, (SC3, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC1 {24)
Round 4: SC3, 3SC into the next ST, (SC5, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC2 {32)
Round 5: SC4, 3SC into the next ST, (SC6, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC2 {40)
Round 6: SC around {40};
Round 7: SC around {40};
Round 8: SC around {40};
Round 9: SC around {40};
Round 10: SC around {40};
Round 11: SC around {40};
Round 12: SC around {40};
Round 13: SC around {40};
Round 14: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {32};
Round 15: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {24};
Round 16: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {16};
Round 17: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {8} -Remove markers;

— Part 9 :

Round 1: CH2, 6SC into the 2nd CH from hook {6};
Round 2: (SC1, 2SC into the next ST) 3 times {9};
Round 3: SC around {9};
Round 4: SC around {9};
Round 5: SC around {9};
Round 6: SC around {9};
Round 7: SC around {9};
Round 8: SC around {9};
Round 9: SC around {9};
Round 10: SC around {9};
Round 11: SC around {9};
Round 12: SC around {9};
Round 13: SC around {9};
Round 14: SC around {9};
Round 15: SC around {9};
Round 16: SC around {9};
Round 17: SC around {9};
Round 18: SC around {9};
Round 19: SC around {9};
Round 20: SC around {9};
Round 21: SC around {9};
Round 22: SC around {9};
Round 23: SC around {9};
Round 24: SC around {9};
Round 25: SC around {9};
Round 26: SC around {9};
Round 27: SC around {9};
Round 28: SC around {9};
Round 29: SC around {9};

— Part 10 :

Round 1: 8SC into a magic loop {8};
Round 2: (SC1, 3SC into the next ST) 4 times {16)
Round 3: SC2, 3SC into the next ST, (SC3, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC1 {24)
Round 4: SC3, 3SC into the next ST, (SC5, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC2 {32)
Round 5: SC4, 3SC into the next ST, (SC7, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC3 {40)
Round 6: SC around {40};
Round 7: SC around {40};
Round 8: SC around {40};
Round 9: SC around {40};
Round 10: SC around {40};
Round 11: SC around {40};
Round 12: SC around {40};
Round 13: SC around {40};
Round 14: SC around {40};
Round 15: SC around {40};
Round 16: SC around {40};
Round 17: SC around {40};
Round 18: SC around {40};
Round 19: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {32};
Round 20: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {24};
Round 21: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {16};
Round 22: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {8} -Remove markers;

— Part 11 :

Round 1: CH2, 6SC into the 2nd CH from hook {6};
Round 2: (SC1, 2SC into the next ST) 3 times {9};
Round 3: SC around {9};
Round 4: SC around {9};
Round 5: SC around {9};
Round 6: SC around {9};
Round 7: SC around {9};
Round 8: SC around {9};
Round 9: SC around {9};

— Part 12 :

Round 1: 8SC into a magic loop {8};
Round 2: (SC1, 3SC into the next ST) 4 times {16)
Round 3: SC2, 3SC into the next ST, (SC3, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC1 {24)
Round 4: SC3, 3SC into the next ST, (SC5, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC2 {32)
Round 5: SC4, 3SC into the next ST, (SC7, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC3 {40)
Round 6: SC5, 3SC into the next ST, (SC9, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC3 {48};
Round 7: SC around {48};
Round 8: SC around {48};
Round 9: SC around {48};
Round 10: SC around {48};
Round 11: SC around {48};
Round 12: SC around {48};
Round 13: SC around {48};
Round 14: SC around {48};
Round 15: SC around {48};
Round 16: SC around {48};
Round 17: SC around {48};
Round 18: SC around {48};
Round 19: SC around {48};
Round 20: SC around {48};
Round 21: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {40};
Round 22: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {32};
Round 23: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {24};
Round 24: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {16};
Round 25: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {8} -Remove markers;

— Part 13 :

Round 1: CH8, SC in 2nd chain from hook, SC5, 3SC into last chain.
Round 2: Working down opposite side of foundation chain, SC5, 2SC in the last ST (the first ST of the previous round) {16};
Round 3: 2SC into the 1st ST, SC5, 2SC into the next 3STS, SC5, 2SC into the last 2STS {22};
Round 4: SC around {22};
Round 5: SC around {22};

— Part 14 :

Round 1: CH2, 5SC into the 2nd CH from hook {5};
Round 2: 2SC into all STS {10};
Round 3: SC around {10};
Round 4: SC around {10};
Round 5: SC around {10};
Round 6: SC around {10};

— Part 15 :

Round 1: CH8, SC in 2nd chain from hook, SC5, 3SC into last chain, working down opposite side of foundation chain, SC5, 2SC in the last ST (the first ST of the previous round) {16};
Round 2: 2SC into the 1st ST, SC5, 2SC into the next 3STS, SC5, 2SC into the last 2STS {22};
Round 3: SC around {22};
Round 4: SC around {22};
Round 5: SC around {22};
Round 6: SC2TOG, SC5, (SC2TOG) 3 times, SC5, (SC2TOG) twice {16};
Round 7: SC around {16};
Round 8: SC around {16};
Round 9: SC2TOG, SC2, (SC2TOG) 3 times, SC2, (SC2TOG) twice {10};
Round 10: SC around {10};
Round 11: SC around {10};
Round 12: SC around {10};
Round 13: SC around {10};
Round 14: SC around {10};
Round 15: SC around {10};
Round 16: SC around {10};

— Part 16 :

Round 1: 8SC into a magic loop {8};
Round 2: (SC1, 3SC into the next ST) 4 times {16)
Round 3: SC2, 3SC into the next ST, (SC3, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC1 {24)
Round 4: SC3, 3SC into the next ST, (SC5, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC2 {32)
Round 5: SC around {32};
Round 6: SC around {32};
Round 7: SC around {32};
Round 8: SC around {32};
Round 9: SC around {32};
Round 10: SC around {32};
Round 11: SC around {32};
Round 12: SC around {32};
Round 13: SC around {32};
Round 14: SC around {32};
Round 15: SC around {32};
Round 16: SC around {32};
Round 17: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {24} -Remove markers;
Round 18: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {16};
Round 19: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {8} -Remove markers;

— Part 17 :

Round 1: 8SC into a magic loop {8};
Round 2: (SC1, 3SC into the next ST) 4 times {16)
Round 3: SC2, 3SC into the next ST, (SC3, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC1 {24)
Round 4: SC3, 3SC into the next ST, (SC5, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC2 {32)
Round 5: SC4, 3SC into the next ST, (SC6, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC2 {40)
Round 6: SC around {40};
Round 7: SC around {40};
Round 8: SC around {40};
Round 9: SC around {40};
Round 10: SC around {40};
Round 11: SC around {40};
Round 12: SC around {40};
Round 13: SC around {40};
Round 14: SC around {40};
Round 15: SC around {40};
Round 16: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {32};
Round 17: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {24};
Round 18: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {16};
Round 19: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {8} -Remove markers;

— Part 18 :

Round 1: CH6, SC in 2nd chain from hook, SC across, 3SC into last chain, working down opposite side of foundation chain, SC3, 2SC in the last ST (the first ST of the previous round) {12};
Round 2: 2SC into the 1st ST, SC3, 2SC into the next 3STS, SC3, 2SC into the last 2STS {18};
Round 3: SC around {18};
Round 4: SC around {18};
Round 5: SC around {18};

— Part 19 :

Round 1: CH10, SC in 2nd chain from hook, SC across, 3SC into last chain, working down opposite side of foundation chain, SC7, 2SC in the last ST (the first ST of the previous round) {20};
Round 2: 2SC into the 1st ST, SC7, 2SC into the next 3STS, SC7, 2SC into the last 2STS {26};
Round 3: SC around {26};
Round 4: SC around {26};

— Part 20 :

Round 1: CH6, SC in 2nd chain from hook, SC across, 3SC into last chain, working down opposite side of foundation chain, SC3, 2SC in the last ST (the first ST of the previous round) {12};
Round 2: 2SC into the 1st ST, SC3, 2SC into the next 3STS, SC3, 2SC into the last 2STS {18};
Round 3: SC around {18};
Round 4: SC around {18};
Round 5: SC around {18};
Round 6: SC around {18};
Round 7: SC around {18};
Round 8: SC around {18};
Round 9: SC around {18};
Round 10: SC around {18};
Round 11: SC around {18};
Round 12: SC around {18};

— Part 21 :

Round 1: CH4, SC into 2nd CH from hook and all other chains, CH1, T {3};
Round 2: SC across, CH1, T {3};
Round 3: SC across, CH4, T;
Round 4: SC into the 2nd CH from hook and all other chains / stitches across, CH1, T {6};
Round 5: SC across, CH1, T {6};
Round 7: SC across, CH4, T;
Round 8: SC into the 2nd CH from hook and all other chains / stitches across, CH1, T {6};
Round 9: SC across {6} Join and FO.

— Part 22 :

Round 1: CH6, SC in 2nd chain from hook, SC across, 3SC into last chain, working in the bottom of the foundation chain, SC3, 2SC in the last ST (the first ST of the previous round) {12};
Round 2: In BLO SC around {12};
Round 3: SC3, (SC2TOG) 3 times, SC3 {9};
Round 4: (SC1, SC2TOG) 3 times {6};
Round 5: SC around {6};
Round 6: SC around {6};

— Part 23 :

Round 1: 8SC into a magic loop {8};
Round 2: (SC1, 3SC into the next ST) 4 times {16)
Round 3: SC2, 3SC into the next ST, (SC3, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC1 {24)
Round 4: SC3, 3SC into the next ST, (SC5, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC2 {32)
Round 5: SC around {32};
Round 6: SC around {32};
Round 7: SC around {32};
Round 8: SC around {32};
Round 9: SC around {32};
Round 10: SC around {32};
Round 11: SC around {32};
Round 12: SC around {32};
Round 13: SC around {32};
Round 14: SC around {32};
Round 15: SC around {32};
Round 16: SC around {32};
Round 17: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {24};
Round 18: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {16};
Round 19: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {8} -Remove markers;

— Part 24 :

Round 1: 8SC into a magic loop {8};
Round 2: (SC1, 3SC into the next ST) 4 times {16)
Round 3: SC2, 3SC into the next ST, (SC3, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC1 {24)
Round 4: SC3, 3SC into the next ST, (SC5, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC2 {32)
Round 5: SC4, 3SC into the next ST, (SC6, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC2 {40)
Round 6: SC around {40};
Round 7: SC around {40};
Round 8: SC around {40};
Round 9: SC around {40};
Round 10: SC around {40};
Round 11: SC around {40};
Round 12: SC around {40};
Round 13: SC around {40};
Round 14: SC around {40};
Round 15: SC around {40};
Round 16: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {32};
Round 17: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {24};
Round 18: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {16};
Round 19: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {8} -Remove markers;

— Part 25 :

Round 1: CH6, SC in 2nd chain from hook, SC across, 3SC into last chain, working down opposite side of foundation chain, SC3, 2SC in the last ST (the first ST of the previous round) {12};
Round 2: 2SC into the 1st ST, SC3, 2SC into the next 3STS, SC3, 2SC into the last 2STS {18};
Round 3: SC around {18};
Round 4: SC around {18};
Round 5: SC around {18};

— Part 26 :

Round 1: 4SC into a magic loop {4};
Round 2: 3SC into every ST {12};
Round 3: SC around {12};
Round 4: SC around {12};
Round 5: SC around {12};
Round 6: SC around {12};

— Part 27 :

Round 1: CH10, 3SC into the 2nd CH from hook and all other chains along. Join and FO.

— Part 28 :

Round 1: 8SC into a magic loop {8};
Round 2: (SC1, 3SC into the next ST) 4 times {16)
Round 3: SC2, 3SC into the next ST, (SC3, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC1 {24)
Round 4: SC3, 3SC into the next ST, (SC5, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC2 {32) Change to black yarn.
Round 5: SC4, 3SC into the next ST, (SC7, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC3 {40)
Round 6: SC around {40};
Round 7: SC around {40};
Round 8: SC around {40};
Round 9: SC around {40};
Round 10: SC around {40};
Round 11: SC around {40};
Round 12: SC around {40};
Round 13: SC around {40};
Round 14: SC around {40};
Round 15: SC around {40};
Round 16: SC around {40};
Round 17: SC around {40};
Round 18: SC around {40};
Round 19: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {32};
Round 20: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {24};
Round 21: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {16};
Round 22: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {8} -Remove markers;

— Part 29 :

Round 1: CH2, 6SC into the 2nd CH from hook {6};
Round 2: SC around {6};
Round 3: SC around {6};
Round 4: SC around {6};
Round 5: SC around {6};
Round 6: SC around {6};
Round 7: SC around {6};
Round 8: SC around {6};
Round 9: SC around {6};
Round 10: SC around {6};
Round 11: SC around {6};
Round 12: SC around {6};
Round 13: SC around {6};
Round 14: SC around {6};
Round 15: SC around {6};
Round 16: SC around {6};
Round 17: SC around {6};
Round 18: SC around {6};
Round 19: SC around {6};
Round 20: SC around {6};
Round 21: SC around {6};
Round 22: SC around {6};
Round 23: SC around {6};
Round 24: SC around {6};

— Part 30 :

Round 1: 4SC into a magic loop {4};
Round 2: 3SC into each ST around {12};
Round 3: SC around {12};
Round 4: SC around {12};
Round 5: SC around {12};
Round 6: SC around {12};
Round 7: SC around {12};
Round 8: SC around {12};
Round 9: SC around {12};
Round 10: SC around {12};
Round 11: SC11 (around the leg not including the stitch we SL ST into) SC1 into the chain we made, SC11;
Round 12: SC around {24};
Round 13: SC around {24};
Round 14: SC to marker, do the one stitch the marker is holding in teal, change back to blue yarn and SC to;
Round 15: SC to stitch before marker, change to teal yarn and SC3, change back to blue yarn and SC to;
Round 16: SC around {24};
Round 17: SC around {24};
Round 18: SC around {24};
Round 19: SC around {24};
Round 20: SC around {24};
Round 21: SC around {24};
Round 22: SC around {24};
Round 23: SC around {24};
Round 24: SC around {24};
Round 25: SC around {24};
Round 26: SC around {24};
Round 27: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) repeat 4 times, SC to end.

— Part 31 :

Round 1: 4SC into a magic loop {4};
Round 2: 3SC into each ST around {12};
Round 3: SC around {12};
Round 4: SC around {12};
Round 5: SC around {12};
Round 6: SC around {12};
Round 7: SC around {12};
Round 8: SC around {12};
Round 9: SC around {12};
Round 10: SC around {12};
Round 11: SC around {12};
Round 12: SC around {12};
Round 13: SC around {12};
Round 14: SC around {12};
Round 15: SC around {12};

— Part 32 :

Round 1: 8SC into a magic loop {8};
Round 2: (SC1, 3SC into the next ST) 4 times {16)
Round 3: SC2, 3SC into the next ST, (SC3, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC1 {24)
Round 4: SC3, 3SC into the next ST, (SC5, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC2 {32)
Round 5: SC4, 3SC into the next ST, (SC7, 3SC into the next ST) 3 times, SC3 {40)
Round 6: SC around {40};
Round 7: SC around {40};
Round 8: SC to first stitch marker in brown, including the stitch with the marker in, SC the next 8 stitches in pink, SC to end with brown yarn. {40};
Round 9: SC to stitch before marker in brown, SC10 in pink, SC to end with brown. {40};
Round 10: SC to stitch before marker in brown, SC10 in pink, SC to end with brown. {40};
Round 11: SC to 2 stitch before marker in brown, SC12 in pink, SC to end with brown. {40};
Round 12: SC to 3 stitch before marker in brown, SC14 in pink, SC to end with brown. {40};
Round 13: SC around {40};
Round 14: SC around {40};
Round 15: SC around {40};
Round 16: SC around {40};
Round 17: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {32};
Round 18: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {24};
Round 19: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {16};
Round 20: (SC to stitch before marker SC3TOG) 4 times, SC to end {8} -Remove markers;

Assembly Instructions

  1. Sew the head to the top opening of the body using the long tail and mattress stitch, aligning the front centre of the head with the front centre of the body and pulling the top closed before final stitching.
  2. Attach arms on either side of the body between the rounds where the shoulder colour changes occur, pinning them level with the top of the torso and sewing with ladder stitch for an invisible join.
  3. Position and sew legs at the bottom of the body spaced evenly; for joined leg construction follow the CH bridge placement described in the leg section and sew securely with back-and-forth whipstitches.
  4. Place embroidered facial features using the marked 9-stitch or 10-stitch face window as a guide, pinning the pieces then stitching outlines first and filling in colour after to maintain crisp edges.
  5. Sew any additional accessories such as spikes, brows or hair onto the body with small, tight stitches, checking symmetry by folding the piece front-to-back before final securing.

Important Notes

  • Work in continuous spiral rounds unless the pattern explicitly instructs you to join and fasten off to keep a smooth surface.
  • Use clip markers to mark corner points for square decreases and replace them after each decrease row to maintain correct alignment.
  • Stuff firmly but gradually so the shapes remain curvy without showing stuffing through the fabric; overstuffing will flatten corners.
  • When changing colour use the invisible colour change method at the final yarn-over to keep colour transitions neat and avoid visible gaps.
  • Pin parts in place and check orientation before sewing permanently so facial features and limbs remain symmetrical.

This Minecraft amigurumi pack was created to bring a shelf of tiny characters into your home and give fans a handmade set to collect. The designs balance blocky, game-accurate silhouettes with soft toy friendly shaping so children and players alike will recognise and adore each figure. Whether you are gifting a full set or making a single Creeper or Alex, the finished pieces are sturdy, charming and endlessly poseable with simple sewing.

Good to know

You ask, we answer

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 10-12 cm tall when made in DK yarn with a 3.5mm hook; sizes vary slightly by character due to differing leg and head constructions.

Yes, you can swap yarn weights but your finished character will change in scale; use a smaller hook for thinner yarn to keep dense stitches, and remember to adjust stuffing and facial placement accordingly.

This set is rated intermediate because it uses magic loop starts, invisible decreases and shaped square closures; a crocheter comfortable with basic amigurumi techniques will find these patterns manageable with careful counting.

Most characters take roughly 8–10 hours to complete, including sewing and facial detailing; simpler figures like the ghast can be faster while more detailed ones with spikes or many legs will take longer.

Finished Minecraft Characters crochet pattern, view 3
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