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Free Crochet Pattern
Beautiful Detailed Adorable

Mimosa Baby Amigurumi Pattern

Front view of Mimosa Baby amigurumi with pink hat
4.7Rating
12-15 HoursTime
AdvancedSkill
Highlights

What makes it special

Made with Love

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding, multi-session endeavour that spreads over a weekend or longer, letting you savor each step from shaping the head to sewing on tiny accessories and the final pose.

Advanced Level

This project is designed for experienced crocheters who enjoy multi-piece constructions, careful color work, and precise finishing. Expect in-the-round shaping, precise decreases, careful seam work, and detailed eye embroidery that combine to produce a highly expressive crocheted amigurumi, with proportions designed for viewing from multiple angles and joints that hold pose without stiffness. The scope includes planning coordinated trims, secure component attachment, and a steady rhythm of rounds that sustains both challenge and satisfaction throughout the build.

Step into a world of soft textures and friendly smiles with Mimosa Baby, a crocheted companion designed to invite quiet focus and gentle play. This project celebrates careful stitchwork, measured color transitions, and the reliable cadence of a well-made amigurumi. The doll’s hat, dress, and tiny accessories come together to speak with a personal voice, a character that feels cherished and ready to accompany tea-time stories or bedtime rituals. The journey from a snug ring to a finished, hand-sewn face keeps the maker steady and present, rewarding concentration with a result that radiates warmth and charm.

The pattern is crafted with a patient, thoughtful rhythm that suits makers who relish a thoughtful build and the satisfaction of layering small details into a broader scene. You’ll find opportunities to practice shaping, alignment, and careful color transitions without sacrificing the comfort of a steady pace. The completed Mimosa Baby boasts a timeless presence that still feels fresh, a tiny friend capable of enduring daily life as a playmate, display piece, or keepsake gift. The design invites you to slow down, measure, and enjoy the quiet joy of crochet as a storytelling medium.

About This Mimosa Baby Amigurumi Pattern

The making process begins with shaping the Head using skin-toned yarn, then eyes are added with detailed embroidery to give Mimosa Baby her gentle expression. The Body forms from a series of evenly spaced rounds, while Arms and Legs are joined with careful placement to ensure balance when displayed or held. The Dress and Hat complete the look, with delicate trims and small buttons for charm. Throughout, color changes are planned to keep transitions smooth and the overall silhouette soft. The final steps involve sewing and securing each piece, then adding subtle makeup and aging to bring out character and personality.

Each join is executed with patient technique to preserve flexibility and avoid visible sewing lines, since the goal is a crocheted figure that remains soft to touch. The proportions are tuned so that facial features align symmetrically when viewed from multiple angles, and the limbs move with a natural sense of weight when picked up. The pattern emphasizes measured progress and thoughtful finishing, inviting makers to savor the process as much as the result.

Close-up of Mimosa Baby eye embroidery

In this build, color blocking and assembly are as important as the stitches themselves, since the doll’s personality shines through the combination of hat, dress, and tiny accessories. You’ll be guided to sew with care so that seams are smooth and form remains consistent at joints. The eye embroidery section is a highlight, offering structured steps that culminate in an expressive gaze. The finishing touches, such as makeup and aging, add depth and character, making Mimosa Baby feel like a real little friend who belongs in your crafting world.

Whether you’re gifting a newborn, a friend, or yourself, this amigurumi delivers in warmth, whimsy, and craftsmanship. The joy comes from slow, deliberate progress rather than rushing to the finish line; every round builds toward a tactile, cuddly final piece you’ll reach for again and again when you need a little handmade joy.

Stitches & Skills You'll Use

The heart of Mimosa Baby lies in straightforward crochet technique that a confident beginner can master with focus. You’ll work in the round to build the head, then shape with careful increases and decreases to keep a soft silhouette. For the limbs, you’ll maintain consistent tension to preserve length and proportion while working from the top down or bottom up depending on the piece. When you join parts, you’ll align edges to keep seams invisible from the outside, creating a smooth surface that reads crocheted rather than sewn. The eye area is built with embroidery on soft fabric, employing tiny vertical stitches to form the iris and pupil, with a subtle highlight to catch light. When finishing, you’ll secure threads at every seam and weave the ends into the surrounding fabric to avoid show-through. Finally, you’ll fasten off all yarn ends cleanly, trimming close to the surface for a tidy finish.

Why You'll Love This Mimosa Baby Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern is designed to reward precision and calm, offering a narrative of careful planning and personal expression. The Mimosa Baby emerges from a steady sequence of shaping and assembly that yields a character with a soft gaze, balanced limbs, and a warm, crocheted-like personality. The process invites you to enjoy palette decisions, the rhythm of rounds, and the satisfaction of a well-sewn finish that holds up to daily play or display. The result is a doll that feels like a friend who could tell a story at any time, a companion for quiet evenings, bedtime rituals, or lively tea parties.

Crafting this doll fosters patience and pride in small, repeatable steps. The finished piece remains durable enough for gentle handling and cuddling, while its proportion and pose stay visually pleasing from different angles, inviting regular handling and respectful display.

Colour & Yarn Inspiration

A classic palette pair of soft mint and cream gives Mimosa Baby a fresh, springlike feel, with a pale pink or lavender as an alternative to soften the look. For a bolder interpretation, deepen teals and add plum accents to create a modern, energetic contrast that remains playful. A woodland autumn option can be achieved with earthy tones and a pale hat for balance. When substituting colors, test a small swatch before committing to the full piece to ensure the final embroidery contrast remains readable and the head-to-body balance feels harmonious. You can also explore different yarn textures; matte cotton blends read differently than silky cotton, affecting how light interacts with makeup and eye accents. The key is to choose substitutions that enhance the pattern’s delicate features rather than overpower them.

Mimosa Baby holding tiny cat accessory

Switch Things Up

Variations breathe life into Mimosa Baby. Start by swapping color paths to craft a new character—changing purple to teal with a coral lip yields a sunlit, playful cousin. A smaller version can be achieved by using lighter fingering yarn and adjusting the hook to 1.75 mm; the overall height reduces while facial features remain readable through careful embroidery.

Add a tiny crochet bouquet as a prop to accompany the doll, creating a second small gift that complements the main piece. For a sturdier display, insert a light wire frame into the limbs before final assembly to allow posing while maintaining a soft feel. You can explore different facial expressions by altering eyelash placement and mouth shape, which subtly shifts the personality of Mimosa Baby without altering the pattern’s structure.

Ways to Use & Gift It

Imagine gifting Mimosa Baby for a baby shower or a milestone birthday; the doll becomes a lasting keepsake that invites imaginative play and storytime. Consider presenting it in a fabric-safe display box or wrapped with a pastel ribbon for a gentle reveal. The doll also works well as a photography subject for a child’s album, where its soft hues complement treasured memories. Pair it with a tiny handmade dress-up set to create a mini fashion show that celebrates creative activity shared by family members. Display it on a shelf with a miniature cradle or a bed of faux flowers to form a small scene that invites pretend play. This doll also makes a comforting gift for a new parent, offering a tactile companion that adds warmth to quiet evenings.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Misplacing limbs during assembly can tilt the overall balance of the figure. Plan the position of arms and legs before final joining and verify symmetry from multiple angles as you attach components.

Inconsistent tension during shaping of the head and torso can create an lopsided silhouette. Maintain uniform tension through each round and check the diameter frequently to preserve a soft, rounded form.

Rushing through color-block transitions or seam joins can leave edges that catch light or look uneven. Take your time aligning seams and matching color blocks before stitching them in place.

Eyebrow and eye embroidery that is too heavy can obscure facial expression and reduce the softness of the gaze. Use small, evenly spaced stitches and test the look on scrap fabric before applying to the head.

Maker's Notes

For gauge and proportion testing, I used fingering weight cotton with a 2.0 mm hook for the head to keep the neck slender, then switched to a 2.2 mm hook for the body to preserve arm and leg proportions. Eye embroidery demands practice; work on separate practice pieces before committing to the head and face. The dress required extra stuffing near the torso to maintain a crisp silhouette without creating stiffness at the seams. Remember to check alignment after each major assembly step, so the facial features and limbs remain visually balanced as you add layers and trims.

I tried a substitution: Choosing a lightweight DK weight in place of fingering altered the final height by about 2 cm, and required a minor adjustment to the neck seam to keep the neck joint from looking stiff. Embroidery threads behaved similarly under gentle tension, with only a small risk of color bleed that can be managed by pre-washing the yarns and weaving threads securely into the fabric. Remember that the overall character remains readable with careful embroidery and proportional scaling, even when yarn weight changes slightly. If you choose to adjust the hook size again, recheck the head-to-body ratio to preserve a balanced silhouette through assembly.

Mimosa Baby Amigurumi Pattern

Make Mimosa Baby with our free crochet pattern—complete amigurumi instructions, materials, and finishing tips. Start crocheting this adorable doll today!

Advanced 12-15 Hours
Pattern at a glance
Skill level
Advanced
Time to make
12-15 Hours
Hook size
2.0 mm
Yarn weight
Fine / Fingering to Light DK
Finished size
Approx. 35 cm tall / 13.8 in
Gauge
Gauge not specified; follow pattern tension with listed hook sizes; test by crocheting a 2x2 inch swatch
Yarn used
Main color yarn total approx. 250-300 g; multiple colors used in dress, hat, and facial details

Materials Needed

Main Fabric
  • 01
    Peria Baby soft cotton, skin color, small amounts for face and hands
  • 02
    Peria Baby soft cotton, white for eyes and highlights
  • 03
    Schachenmayr Catania, green for hair accents and dress trim
  • 04
    Schachenmayr Catania, purple for the dress body
  • 05
    Gazzal Baby Cotton, lilac for subtle shading
  • 06
    Domino Cotton Perle #8, light blue for accents
  • 07
    Domino Cotton Perle #8, dark blue for eyes or detailing
  • 08
    Domino Cotton Perle #8, white for highlights
  • 09
    Domino Cotton Perle #8, black for pupils
  • 10
    Örenbayan Cotton Perle pink for makeup and blush
  • 11
    Etamine and other needlework projects for eye details
  • 12
    Bead fiber and accents for eyes and small features
  • 13
    Paper rope (for accessories) and decorative hair pieces
Tools Required
  • 01
    Crochet hook 2.0 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook 2.2 mm
  • 03
    Tapestry needle for embroidery
  • 04
    Sharp embroidery needle for eyework
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Stitch markers
  • 07
    Polyester stuffing
  • 08
    Pins for assembly
  • 09
    Wire (optional) for poseable limbs
  • 10
    Small buttons (eye and dress accents)

— Head :

Round 1: 6x into the magic ring Row 2:6v (12)
Round 3: (x, v)*6 Row 42x,v)*6 Row 53x,v)*6 Row 64x,v)*6 Row 75x,v)*6 Row 86x,v)*6 * * *When crocheting the head, mark the heads of the rows with the marker. Row 97x,v)* 6 Row 108x,v)*6 Row 119x,v)*6 (66)

— Body :

Round 12: (10x,v)*6 (72)
Round 13: (15 rows):72x * * *Go to eye processing. After the eye embroidery is finished, the head will continue to be crocheted. EYE PROCESSING Identifying eye locations: Align with the third increment loop of the head in the 12th row and place a marker between the 21st and 22nd rows with a pin. This is the midpoint between the two eyes. Make a mark with a pin by counting 6 sc to the right of the pin and 5 to the left of the pin. Remove the pins by placing dots in the designated places with the flying pen. Pupils will be embroidered on the marked places.
Round 14: (15 rows):72x * * *Go to eye processing. After the eye embroidery is finished, the head will continue to be crocheted. EYE PROCESSING Identifying eye locations: Align with the third increment loop of the head in the 12th row and place a marker between the 21st and 22nd rows with a pin. This is the midpoint between the two eyes. Make a mark with a pin by counting 6 sc to the right of the pin and 5 to the left of the pin. Remove the pins by placing dots in the designated places with the flying pen. Pupils will be embroidered on the marked places.
Round 15: (15 rows):72x * * *Go to eye processing. After the eye embroidery is finished, the head will continue to be crocheted. EYE PROCESSING Identifying eye locations: Align with the third increment loop of the head in the 12th row and place a marker between the 21st and 22nd rows with a pin. This is the midpoint between the two eyes. Make a mark with a pin by counting 6 sc to the right of the pin and 5 to the left of the pin. Remove the pins by placing dots in the designated places with the flying pen. Pupils will be embroidered on the marked places.
Round 16: (15 rows):72x * * *Go to eye processing. After the eye embroidery is finished, the head will continue to be crocheted. EYE PROCESSING Identifying eye locations: Align with the third increment loop of the head in the 12th row and place a marker between the 21st and 22nd rows with a pin. This is the midpoint between the two eyes. Make a mark with a pin by counting 6 sc to the right of the pin and 5 to the left of the pin. Remove the pins by placing dots in the designated places with the flying pen. Pupils will be embroidered on the marked places.
Round 17: (15 rows):72x * * *Go to eye processing. After the eye embroidery is finished, the head will continue to be crocheted. EYE PROCESSING Identifying eye locations: Align with the third increment loop of the head in the 12th row and place a marker between the 21st and 22nd rows with a pin. This is the midpoint between the two eyes. Make a mark with a pin by counting 6 sc to the right of the pin and 5 to the left of the pin. Remove the pins by placing dots in the designated places with the flying pen. Pupils will be embroidered on the marked places.
Round 18: (15 rows):72x * * *Go to eye processing. After the eye embroidery is finished, the head will continue to be crocheted. EYE PROCESSING Identifying eye locations: Align with the third increment loop of the head in the 12th row and place a marker between the 21st and 22nd rows with a pin. This is the midpoint between the two eyes. Make a mark with a pin by counting 6 sc to the right of the pin and 5 to the left of the pin. Remove the pins by placing dots in the designated places with the flying pen. Pupils will be embroidered on the marked places.
Round 19: (15 rows):72x * * *Go to eye processing. After the eye embroidery is finished, the head will continue to be crocheted. EYE PROCESSING Identifying eye locations: Align with the third increment loop of the head in the 12th row and place a marker between the 21st and 22nd rows with a pin. This is the midpoint between the two eyes. Make a mark with a pin by counting 6 sc to the right of the pin and 5 to the left of the pin. Remove the pins by placing dots in the designated places with the flying pen. Pupils will be embroidered on the marked places.
Round 20: (15 rows):72x * * *Go to eye processing. After the eye embroidery is finished, the head will continue to be crocheted. EYE PROCESSING Identifying eye locations: Align with the third increment loop of the head in the 12th row and place a marker between the 21st and 22nd rows with a pin. This is the midpoint between the two eyes. Make a mark with a pin by counting 6 sc to the right of the pin and 5 to the left of the pin. Remove the pins by placing dots in the designated places with the flying pen. Pupils will be embroidered on the marked places.
Round 21: (15 rows):72x * * *Go to eye processing. After the eye embroidery is finished, the head will continue to be crocheted. EYE PROCESSING Identifying eye locations: Align with the third increment loop of the head in the 12th row and place a marker between the 21st and 22nd rows with a pin. This is the midpoint between the two eyes. Make a mark with a pin by counting 6 sc to the right of the pin and 5 to the left of the pin. Remove the pins by placing dots in the designated places with the flying pen. Pupils will be embroidered on the marked places.
Round 22: (15 rows):72x * * *Go to eye processing. After the eye embroidery is finished, the head will continue to be crocheted. EYE PROCESSING Identifying eye locations: Align with the third increment loop of the head in the 12th row and place a marker between the 21st and 22nd rows with a pin. This is the midpoint between the two eyes. Make a mark with a pin by counting 6 sc to the right of the pin and 5 to the left of the pin. Remove the pins by placing dots in the designated places with the flying pen. Pupils will be embroidered on the marked places.
Round 23: (15 rows):72x * * *Go to eye processing. After the eye embroidery is finished, the head will continue to be crocheted. EYE PROCESSING Identifying eye locations: Align with the third increment loop of the head in the 12th row and place a marker between the 21st and 22nd rows with a pin. This is the midpoint between the two eyes. Make a mark with a pin by counting 6 sc to the right of the pin and 5 to the left of the pin. Remove the pins by placing dots in the designated places with the flying pen. Pupils will be embroidered on the marked places.
Round 24: (15 rows):72x * * *Go to eye processing. After the eye embroidery is finished, the head will continue to be crocheted. EYE PROCESSING Identifying eye locations: Align with the third increment loop of the head in the 12th row and place a marker between the 21st and 22nd rows with a pin. This is the midpoint between the two eyes. Make a mark with a pin by counting 6 sc to the right of the pin and 5 to the left of the pin. Remove the pins by placing dots in the designated places with the flying pen. Pupils will be embroidered on the marked places.
Round 25: (15 rows):72x * * *Go to eye processing. After the eye embroidery is finished, the head will continue to be crocheted. EYE PROCESSING Identifying eye locations: Align with the third increment loop of the head in the 12th row and place a marker between the 21st and 22nd rows with a pin. This is the midpoint between the two eyes. Make a mark with a pin by counting 6 sc to the right of the pin and 5 to the left of the pin. Remove the pins by placing dots in the designated places with the flying pen. Pupils will be embroidered on the marked places.
Round 26: (15 rows):72x * * *Go to eye processing. After the eye embroidery is finished, the head will continue to be crocheted. EYE PROCESSING Identifying eye locations: Align with the third increment loop of the head in the 12th row and place a marker between the 21st and 22nd rows with a pin. This is the midpoint between the two eyes. Make a mark with a pin by counting 6 sc to the right of the pin and 5 to the left of the pin. Remove the pins by placing dots in the designated places with the flying pen. Pupils will be embroidered on the marked places.
Round 27: (15 rows):72x * * *Go to eye processing. After the eye embroidery is finished, the head will continue to be crocheted. EYE PROCESSING Identifying eye locations: Align with the third increment loop of the head in the 12th row and place a marker between the 21st and 22nd rows with a pin. This is the midpoint between the two eyes. Make a mark with a pin by counting 6 sc to the right of the pin and 5 to the left of the pin. Remove the pins by placing dots in the designated places with the flying pen. Pupils will be embroidered on the marked places.
Round 28: (3 rows):72x Row 31:2x, a, (10x,a)*5, 8x (66)
Round 29: (3 rows):72x Row 31:2x, a, (10x,a)*5, 8x (66)
Round 30: (3 rows):72x Row 31:2x, a, (10x,a)*5, 8x (66)
Round 32: 5x, a, (9x,a)*5, 4x (60)
Round 33: (8x,a)*6 Row 34:2x, a, (7x,a)*5, 5x Row 35:5x, a, (6x,a)*5, x * * *You fill the head. Row 38:2x, a, (5x,a)*5, 3x (36)
Round 41: (x,a)*8, sl st (16)

— Nose :

Round 4: times as in the image. Eyebrow: Embroider the eyebrows one row above the lashes, leaving 9 single needles with a width of 5 sc between the two eyebrows. Follow the images. Lips: Determine the place of the lip with pins, leaving 3 single needles down the nose, and 3 frequent needles. Attach the thread to the needle in two layers. To embroider the lip, the triangle shape will be created. Enter through the neck space and exit from the designated point on the left. Dive into the middle of the lip in the upper row and exit from the determined point on the right. To form the other side of the triangle, sink to the upper point and exit the neck space. Enter from the left of the lip and enter from the right and exit the neck cavity. LIP PROCESSING YOUTUBE LINK:https://youtu.be/Q3ZyjkKUoHQ;
Round 5: times as in the image. Eyebrow: Embroider the eyebrows one row above the lashes, leaving 9 single needles with a width of 5 sc between the two eyebrows. Follow the images. Lips: Determine the place of the lip with pins, leaving 3 single needles down the nose, and 3 frequent needles. Attach the thread to the needle in two layers. To embroider the lip, the triangle shape will be created. Enter through the neck space and exit from the designated point on the left. Dive into the middle of the lip in the upper row and exit from the determined point on the right. To form the other side of the triangle, sink to the upper point and exit the neck space. Enter from the left of the lip and enter from the right and exit the neck cavity. LIP PROCESSING YOUTUBE LINK:https://youtu.be/Q3ZyjkKUoHQ;

— Arm :

Round 1: 6x into the magic ring Row 2:2v, x, 2v, x Row 3:2x, v, 4x, v, 2x Row 4:3x, v, 5x, v, 2x Row 5:4x, v, 9x;
Round 6: (3 rows):15x Row 9:4x, a, 6x, a, x Row 10:11x;
Round 7: (3 rows):15x Row 9:4x, a, 6x, a, x Row 10:11x;
Round 8: (3 rows):15x Row 9:4x, a, 6x, a, x Row 10:11x;
Round 11: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 12: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 13: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 14: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 15: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 16: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 17: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 18: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 19: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 20: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 21: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 22: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 23: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 24: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 25: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 26: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 27: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 28: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 29: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 30: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 31: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 32: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 33: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 34: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 35: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)
Round 36: (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. * * *The arms will not be filled with fibers. crochet the other arm in the same way. (10)

— Foot Recipe :

Round 1: 9ch check. Starting from 2ch, into the first loop 2x, 6x, into the same loop 3x, 7x (18)
Round 2: v, 8x, v, 8x (20)
Round 3: (8 rows):20x @silklike__ @silklike__ @silklike__;
Round 4: (8 rows):20x @silklike__ @silklike__ @silklike__;
Round 5: (8 rows):20x @silklike__ @silklike__ @silklike__;
Round 6: (8 rows):20x @silklike__ @silklike__ @silklike__;
Round 7: (8 rows):20x @silklike__ @silklike__ @silklike__;
Round 8: (8 rows):20x @silklike__ @silklike__ @silklike__;
Round 9: (8 rows):20x @silklike__ @silklike__ @silklike__;
Round 10: (8 rows):20x @silklike__ @silklike__ @silklike__;
Round 11: 3x, 7ch and skip 9x, 8x;
Round 12: 3x, 7x on 7 chain, 8x (18)
Round 13: (x,a)*6 (12)
Round 14: 6a, the heel is over, leave a long rope to collect the heel and break the rope. * * *Gather the needle and 6 sc needles from the flo loops, tighten them well, knot the thread inside the foot and hide it. * * *The foot is over, the leg will be passed. crochet the other foot in the same way. LEG RECIPE MUST READ!;

— Left leg recipe :

Round 1: We turn the back of the foot and pull the 7th loop, attach the thread to the 4th loop, 4x on the chain, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 9x in the front, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 3x on the chain (18)
Round 2: 4x, a, float 7x, a, 3x (16)
Round 3: (4 rows):16x * * *Fill the wrist. (Pay attention to the pre- written tips in leg filling.) Row 7:v, 15x Row 8:17x Row 9:x, v, 15x Row 10:18x Row 11:2x, v, 15x Row 12:3x, v, 15x (17)
Round 4: (4 rows):16x * * *Fill the wrist. (Pay attention to the pre- written tips in leg filling.) Row 7:v, 15x Row 8:17x Row 9:x, v, 15x Row 10:18x Row 11:2x, v, 15x Row 12:3x, v, 15x (17)
Round 5: (4 rows):16x * * *Fill the wrist. (Pay attention to the pre- written tips in leg filling.) Row 7:v, 15x Row 8:17x Row 9:x, v, 15x Row 10:18x Row 11:2x, v, 15x Row 12:3x, v, 15x (17)
Round 6: (4 rows):16x * * *Fill the wrist. (Pay attention to the pre- written tips in leg filling.) Row 7:v, 15x Row 8:17x Row 9:x, v, 15x Row 10:18x Row 11:2x, v, 15x Row 12:3x, v, 15x (17)
Round 13: 20x Row 14:4x, v, 15x (21)
Round 15: 21x Row 16:5x, v, 15x (22)
Round 17: 22x Row 18:6x, v, 15x (23)
Round 19: (5 rows):23x * * *The side indicated by the arrow should be filled more oval and the other side should be left more vertical. More filling should be done on the arrow side. Row 24:5x, a, x, a, 13x (21)
Round 20: (5 rows):23x * * *The side indicated by the arrow should be filled more oval and the other side should be left more vertical. More filling should be done on the arrow side. Row 24:5x, a, x, a, 13x (21)
Round 21: (5 rows):23x * * *The side indicated by the arrow should be filled more oval and the other side should be left more vertical. More filling should be done on the arrow side. Row 24:5x, a, x, a, 13x (21)
Round 22: (5 rows):23x * * *The side indicated by the arrow should be filled more oval and the other side should be left more vertical. More filling should be done on the arrow side. Row 24:5x, a, x, a, 13x (21)
Round 23: (5 rows):23x * * *The side indicated by the arrow should be filled more oval and the other side should be left more vertical. More filling should be done on the arrow side. Row 24:5x, a, x, a, 13x (21)
Round 25: 21x Row 26:4x, a, x, a, 12x (19)
Round 27: 5x, a, 5x, 4v, 3x * * *The 27th row is the 4v kneecap. If there is a shift in the raises due to the hand difference, you can scroll the knee raises. Change the head of the line accordingly and continue with the recipe. Row 28:22x Row 29:11x, 4a, 3x (18)
Round 30: 4x, v, x, v, 11x (20)
Round 32: 6x, v, 13x (21)
Round 33: 21x Row 34:6x, v, x, v, 12x (23)
Round 35: 23x Row 36:8x, v, 14x (24)
Round 37: 24x Row 38:9x, v, 14x (25)
Round 39: 25x Row 40:10x, v, 14x (26)
Round 41: 26x Row 42:11x, v, 14x (27)
Round 43: 27x Row 44:12x, v, 14x (28)
Round 45: 4x with tan, 24x with white thread (28)
Round 47: 4x, sl st, finish, break the thread. Left leg done.

— Right leg recipe :

Round 1: We turn the back of the foot and pull the 7th loop, attach the thread to the 4th loop, 4x on the chain, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 9x in the front, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 3x on the chain (18)
Round 2: 4x, a, float 7x, a, 3x (16)
Round 3: (4 rows):16x * * *Fill the wrist. When we turn the toe to ourselves, the left part of the right leg will be the calf (blue arrow side) and this side will be protruded. Always add more filling to the protruding part. Keep the leg away and frequently. Proceed by making a filling in 4-5 rows. Row 7:v, 15x (17)
Round 4: (4 rows):16x * * *Fill the wrist. When we turn the toe to ourselves, the left part of the right leg will be the calf (blue arrow side) and this side will be protruded. Always add more filling to the protruding part. Keep the leg away and frequently. Proceed by making a filling in 4-5 rows. Row 7:v, 15x (17)
Round 5: (4 rows):16x * * *Fill the wrist. When we turn the toe to ourselves, the left part of the right leg will be the calf (blue arrow side) and this side will be protruded. Always add more filling to the protruding part. Keep the leg away and frequently. Proceed by making a filling in 4-5 rows. Row 7:v, 15x (17)
Round 6: (4 rows):16x * * *Fill the wrist. When we turn the toe to ourselves, the left part of the right leg will be the calf (blue arrow side) and this side will be protruded. Always add more filling to the protruding part. Keep the leg away and frequently. Proceed by making a filling in 4-5 rows. Row 7:v, 15x (17)
Round 8: 17x @silklike__ Row 9:x, v, 15x (18)
Round 10: 18x Row 11:2x, v, 15x (19)
Round 12: 3x, v, 15x Row 13:20x Row 14:4x, v, 15x (21)
Round 15: 21x Row 16:5x, v, 15x (22)
Round 17: 22x Row 18:6x, v, 15x (23)
Round 19: (5 rows):23x Row 24:5x, a, x, a, 13x (21)
Round 20: (5 rows):23x Row 24:5x, a, x, a, 13x (21)
Round 21: (5 rows):23x Row 24:5x, a, x, a, 13x (21)
Round 22: (5 rows):23x Row 24:5x, a, x, a, 13x (21)
Round 23: (5 rows):23x Row 24:5x, a, x, a, 13x (21)
Round 25: 21x Row 26:4x, a, x, a, 12x (19)
Round 27: 5x, a, 7x, 4v, x * * *The 27th row is the 4v kneecap. If there is a shift in the raises due to the hand difference, you can scroll the knee raises. Change the head of the line accordingly and continue with the recipe. Row 28:22x Row 29:13x, 4a, x (18)
Round 30: 4x, v, x, v, 11x Row 31:20x Row 32:6x, v, 13x (21)
Round 33: 21x Row 34:7x, v, x, v, 11x (23)
Round 35: 23x Row 36:8x, v, 14x (24)
Round 37: 24x Row 38:9x, v, 14x (25)
Round 40: 10x, v, 14x (26)
Round 41: 26x Row 42:11x, v, 14x (27)
Round 43: 27x Row 44:12x, v, 14x (28)
Round 45: 23x with nude, 5x with white thread (28)

— Important Read! :

Round 1: Continue from the right leg, pull 4 ch, sink into the first loop next to the sl st loop on the left leg, and make 14 frequent crochets, an increase, 13 frequent crochets on the left leg. Switch to the right leg and make 13 frequent crochets, one increase, 14 frequent crochets. Do 4x on Zn. (66) (This will be the headland)
Round 2: (6 rows):66x * * *Fill the baby's body and leg joints well. If this area is not filled well, the legs and hips will look frail. Row 8:15x, a, 31x, a, 16x (64)
Round 3: (6 rows):66x * * *Fill the baby's body and leg joints well. If this area is not filled well, the legs and hips will look frail. Row 8:15x, a, 31x, a, 16x (64)
Round 4: (6 rows):66x * * *Fill the baby's body and leg joints well. If this area is not filled well, the legs and hips will look frail. Row 8:15x, a, 31x, a, 16x (64)
Round 5: (6 rows):66x * * *Fill the baby's body and leg joints well. If this area is not filled well, the legs and hips will look frail. Row 8:15x, a, 31x, a, 16x (64)
Round 6: (6 rows):66x * * *Fill the baby's body and leg joints well. If this area is not filled well, the legs and hips will look frail. Row 8:15x, a, 31x, a, 16x (64)
Round 7: (6 rows):66x * * *Fill the baby's body and leg joints well. If this area is not filled well, the legs and hips will look frail. Row 8:15x, a, 31x, a, 16x (64)
Round 9: 14x, a, 31x, a, 15x (62)
Round 10: 13x, a, 31x, a, 14x (60)
Round 11: 12x, a, 31x, a, 13x (58)
Round 12: 11x, a, 31x, a, 12x (56)
Round 13: 10x, a, 31x, a, 11x (54)
Round 14: 9x, a, 31x, a, 10x (52)
Round 15: 8x, a, 31x, a, 9x (50)
Round 16: 7x, a, 31x, a, 8x (48)
Round 17: 6x, a, 31x, a, 7x (46)
Round 18: 5x, a, 31x, a, 6x (44)
Round 19: 4x, a, 31x, a, 5x (42)
Round 20: 3x, a, 31x, a, 4x, shorts over, continue with skin color. (40)
Round 21: (21 rows):40x * * *At this time, arm joining will be started. Align the ends of the arms to face the body. (The remaining thread at the end of the arms should remain under the arm.) * * *If there is a slip due to hand difference, align the arms according to yourself, arrange the loop of the round head accordingly and continue crocheting according to the recipe. Row 42:12x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 17x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 5x (40)
Round 22: (21 rows):40x * * *At this time, arm joining will be started. Align the ends of the arms to face the body. (The remaining thread at the end of the arms should remain under the arm.) * * *If there is a slip due to hand difference, align the arms according to yourself, arrange the loop of the round head accordingly and continue crocheting according to the recipe. Row 42:12x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 17x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 5x (40)
Round 23: (21 rows):40x * * *At this time, arm joining will be started. Align the ends of the arms to face the body. (The remaining thread at the end of the arms should remain under the arm.) * * *If there is a slip due to hand difference, align the arms according to yourself, arrange the loop of the round head accordingly and continue crocheting according to the recipe. Row 42:12x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 17x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 5x (40)
Round 24: (21 rows):40x * * *At this time, arm joining will be started. Align the ends of the arms to face the body. (The remaining thread at the end of the arms should remain under the arm.) * * *If there is a slip due to hand difference, align the arms according to yourself, arrange the loop of the round head accordingly and continue crocheting according to the recipe. Row 42:12x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 17x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 5x (40)
Round 25: (21 rows):40x * * *At this time, arm joining will be started. Align the ends of the arms to face the body. (The remaining thread at the end of the arms should remain under the arm.) * * *If there is a slip due to hand difference, align the arms according to yourself, arrange the loop of the round head accordingly and continue crocheting according to the recipe. Row 42:12x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 17x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 5x (40)
Round 26: (21 rows):40x * * *At this time, arm joining will be started. Align the ends of the arms to face the body. (The remaining thread at the end of the arms should remain under the arm.) * * *If there is a slip due to hand difference, align the arms according to yourself, arrange the loop of the round head accordingly and continue crocheting according to the recipe. Row 42:12x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 17x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 5x (40)
Round 27: (21 rows):40x * * *At this time, arm joining will be started. Align the ends of the arms to face the body. (The remaining thread at the end of the arms should remain under the arm.) * * *If there is a slip due to hand difference, align the arms according to yourself, arrange the loop of the round head accordingly and continue crocheting according to the recipe. Row 42:12x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 17x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 5x (40)
Round 28: (21 rows):40x * * *At this time, arm joining will be started. Align the ends of the arms to face the body. (The remaining thread at the end of the arms should remain under the arm.) * * *If there is a slip due to hand difference, align the arms according to yourself, arrange the loop of the round head accordingly and continue crocheting according to the recipe. Row 42:12x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 17x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 5x (40)
Round 29: (21 rows):40x * * *At this time, arm joining will be started. Align the ends of the arms to face the body. (The remaining thread at the end of the arms should remain under the arm.) * * *If there is a slip due to hand difference, align the arms according to yourself, arrange the loop of the round head accordingly and continue crocheting according to the recipe. Row 42:12x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 17x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 5x (40)
Round 30: (21 rows):40x * * *At this time, arm joining will be started. Align the ends of the arms to face the body. (The remaining thread at the end of the arms should remain under the arm.) * * *If there is a slip due to hand difference, align the arms according to yourself, arrange the loop of the round head accordingly and continue crocheting according to the recipe. Row 42:12x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 17x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 5x (40)
Round 31: (21 rows):40x * * *At this time, arm joining will be started. Align the ends of the arms to face the body. (The remaining thread at the end of the arms should remain under the arm.) * * *If there is a slip due to hand difference, align the arms according to yourself, arrange the loop of the round head accordingly and continue crocheting according to the recipe. Row 42:12x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 17x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 5x (40)
Round 32: (21 rows):40x * * *At this time, arm joining will be started. Align the ends of the arms to face the body. (The remaining thread at the end of the arms should remain under the arm.) * * *If there is a slip due to hand difference, align the arms according to yourself, arrange the loop of the round head accordingly and continue crocheting according to the recipe. Row 42:12x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 17x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 5x (40)
Round 33: (21 rows):40x * * *At this time, arm joining will be started. Align the ends of the arms to face the body. (The remaining thread at the end of the arms should remain under the arm.) * * *If there is a slip due to hand difference, align the arms according to yourself, arrange the loop of the round head accordingly and continue crocheting according to the recipe. Row 42:12x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 17x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 5x (40)
Round 34: (21 rows):40x * * *At this time, arm joining will be started. Align the ends of the arms to face the body. (The remaining thread at the end of the arms should remain under the arm.) * * *If there is a slip due to hand difference, align the arms according to yourself, arrange the loop of the round head accordingly and continue crocheting according to the recipe. Row 42:12x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 17x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 5x (40)
Round 35: (21 rows):40x * * *At this time, arm joining will be started. Align the ends of the arms to face the body. (The remaining thread at the end of the arms should remain under the arm.) * * *If there is a slip due to hand difference, align the arms according to yourself, arrange the loop of the round head accordingly and continue crocheting according to the recipe. Row 42:12x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 17x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 5x (40)
Round 36: (21 rows):40x * * *At this time, arm joining will be started. Align the ends of the arms to face the body. (The remaining thread at the end of the arms should remain under the arm.) * * *If there is a slip due to hand difference, align the arms according to yourself, arrange the loop of the round head accordingly and continue crocheting according to the recipe. Row 42:12x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 17x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 5x (40)
Round 37: (21 rows):40x * * *At this time, arm joining will be started. Align the ends of the arms to face the body. (The remaining thread at the end of the arms should remain under the arm.) * * *If there is a slip due to hand difference, align the arms according to yourself, arrange the loop of the round head accordingly and continue crocheting according to the recipe. Row 42:12x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 17x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 5x (40)
Round 38: (21 rows):40x * * *At this time, arm joining will be started. Align the ends of the arms to face the body. (The remaining thread at the end of the arms should remain under the arm.) * * *If there is a slip due to hand difference, align the arms according to yourself, arrange the loop of the round head accordingly and continue crocheting according to the recipe. Row 42:12x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 17x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 5x (40)
Round 39: (21 rows):40x * * *At this time, arm joining will be started. Align the ends of the arms to face the body. (The remaining thread at the end of the arms should remain under the arm.) * * *If there is a slip due to hand difference, align the arms according to yourself, arrange the loop of the round head accordingly and continue crocheting according to the recipe. Row 42:12x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 17x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 5x (40)
Round 40: (21 rows):40x * * *At this time, arm joining will be started. Align the ends of the arms to face the body. (The remaining thread at the end of the arms should remain under the arm.) * * *If there is a slip due to hand difference, align the arms according to yourself, arrange the loop of the round head accordingly and continue crocheting according to the recipe. Row 42:12x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 17x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 5x (40)
Round 41: (21 rows):40x * * *At this time, arm joining will be started. Align the ends of the arms to face the body. (The remaining thread at the end of the arms should remain under the arm.) * * *If there is a slip due to hand difference, align the arms according to yourself, arrange the loop of the round head accordingly and continue crocheting according to the recipe. Row 42:12x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 17x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 5x (40)
Round 43: 12x,9x on arm, 17x, 9x on arm, 5x (52)
Round 44: 10x, a, 9x, a, 13x, a, 9x, a, 3x (48)
Round 45: 10x, a, 7x, a, 13x, a, 7x, a, 3x (44)
Round 46: 9x, a, 2x, m, 2x, a, 11x, a, 2x, m, 2x, a, 2x (36)
Round 47: 7x, a, 2x, m, 2x, a, 7x, a, 2x, m, 2x, a (28)
Round 49: (3x, a) *4 (16)
Round 50: (4 rows):16x;
Round 51: (4 rows):16x;
Round 52: (4 rows):16x;
Round 53: (4 rows):16x;
Round 54: 2x, sl st, body done. Let go of the head. Lightly pad the gut and shoulders Sewing the Head to the Body Fold the wire you cut about 35 cm long and tape the ends. Putting half on the body and half on the head; Sew head and body together.

— T-Shirt :

Round 1: 40ch, starting chain 2 5x, v, 8hdcv, v, 9x, v, 8hdcv, v, 5x, back * * *It means that an increase will be made by making a handrail with the hdcv in the 1st row.
Round 2: 1ch, 59x, back;
Round 3: 1ch, 6x, v, 16hdc, v, 11x, v, 16hdc, v, 6x, back;
Round 4: 1ch, 63x, back;
Round 5: 1ch, 7x, v, 5hdc, 3hdca, 5hdc, v, 13x, v, 5hdc, 3hdca, 5hdc, v,7x,back;
Round 6: 1ch, 9x, 3ch and skip 13hdc, 17x, 3ch and skip 13hdc, 9x, reverse@ DIhepnlike__;
Round 7: 1ch, 3x, v, 5x, a multiple of 3 chains 3x, 17x, a multiple of 3 chains 3x, 5x v, 3x, back (41)
Round 8: 1ch, 41x, back;
Round 9: 1ch, 4x, v, 31x, v, 4x go back (43)
Round 10: (5 rows):1ch, 43x, back;
Round 11: (5 rows):1ch, 43x, back;
Round 12: (5 rows):1ch, 43x, back;
Round 13: (5 rows):1ch, 43x, back;
Round 14: (5 rows):1ch, 43x, back;
Round 15: 1ch, 5x, v, 31x, v, 5x, back (45)
Round 16: (7rows):1ch, 45x, back;
Round 17: (7rows):1ch, 45x, back;
Round 18: (7rows):1ch, 45x, back;
Round 19: (7rows):1ch, 45x, back;
Round 20: (7rows):1ch, 45x, back;
Round 21: (7rows):1ch, 45x, back;
Round 22: (7rows):1ch, 45x, back;
Round 23: 1ch, 45x, turning the side of the shirt without breaking the thread to make the buttonholes of the shirt; 1ch, 6x, 7ch (1st buttonhole), 7x, 7ch (2nd buttonhole), 7x, 7ch (3rd buttonhole), 2x, sl st, break the thread.

— Salopet :

Round 1: Pull 59ch, do 52x starting from 8ch, break the rope. * * *The 7ch left at the beginning of the chain will be buttonhole. * * *In order for the baby to be dressed comfortably, Up to the 16th row, the rope will be cut off and reattached to the beginning of the row. Walk the remaining threads that we cut at the beginning and end of the row in crocheting. crochet these frequent needles more tightly so that the frequent needles that you are guiding the yarns do not look wider.
Round 2: Attach the thread to the first loop. (Insert the buttonhole side.) 1ch, 52x, break the thread.
Round 3: Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, 52x, break the string.
Round 4: Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, x, v, 10x, v, 26x, v, 10x, v, x break the thread.(56)
Round 5: (2 rows):Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, 56x, break the string.
Round 6: (2 rows):Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, 56x, break the string.
Round 7: Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, 13x, v, 28x, v, 13x break the thread.(58)
Round 8: Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, 58x, break the string.
Round 9: Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, x, v, 54x, v, x break the thread. (60)
Round 10: Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, 60x, break the thread.
Round 11: Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, 14x, v, 30x, v, 14x, break the thread. (62)
Round 12: Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, 62x, break the thread.
Round 13: Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, x, v, 58x, v, x break the thread. (64)
Round 14: Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, 15x, v, 32x, v, 15x, break the thread. (66)
Round 15: Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, x, v, 62x, v, x break the thread. (68)
Round 16: Attach the yarn to the first loop. Merge the row by doing 1ch, 68x, sl st. * * *After this row, the rope will be continued without breaking. Due to the hand difference in crocheting, if the baby's size is different, even if you try the salopette, the recipe can be continued by breaking a few more rows of yarn. * * *Since the reverse direction of the crocheting will be used, the frequent needles will be crocheted in reverse. Rows will be crocheted counterclockwise by inserting the crochet from the inside of the crocheting.
Round 17: 1ch, 68x, sl st;
Round 18: 1ch, 17x, v, 33x, v, 16x, sl st (70)
Round 19: (3 rows):1ch, 70x, sl st;
Round 20: (3 rows):1ch, 70x, sl st;
Round 21: (3 rows):1ch, 70x, sl st;
Round 22: 1ch, 18x, v, 34x, v, 16x,sl st (72)
Round 23: (3 rows):1ch, 72x, sl st;
Round 24: (3 rows):1ch, 72x, sl st;
Round 25: (3 rows):1ch, 72x, sl st;
Round 26: 1ch, 19x, v, 36x, v, 15x, sl st (74)
Round 27: (4 rows):1ch, 74x, sl st * * *The ruffle of the salopette will be made.
Round 28: (4 rows):1ch, 74x, sl st * * *The ruffle of the salopette will be made.
Round 29: (4 rows):1ch, 74x, sl st * * *The ruffle of the salopette will be made.
Round 30: (4 rows):1ch, 74x, sl st * * *The ruffle of the salopette will be made.
Round 31: 1ch, flodan 74v, sl st (148)
Round 32: (2 rows):1ch, 148x, sl st, break thread. * * *The skirt part of the salolet is finished. Skirt length can be changed upon request. The front part of the salopette; Start counting from the non buttonhole side of the salopette and insert the thread into the 21st frequent needle.
Round 33: (2 rows):1ch, 148x, sl st, break thread. * * *The skirt part of the salolet is finished. Skirt length can be changed upon request. The front part of the salopette; Start counting from the non buttonhole side of the salopette and insert the thread into the 21st frequent needle.

— Arms :

Round 1: (8 rows):1ch, 14x, go back;
Round 2: (8 rows):1ch, 14x, go back;
Round 3: (8 rows):1ch, 14x, go back;
Round 4: (8 rows):1ch, 14x, go back;
Round 5: (8 rows):1ch, 14x, go back;
Round 6: (8 rows):1ch, 14x, go back;
Round 7: (8 rows):1ch, 14x, go back;
Round 8: (8 rows):1ch, 14x, go back;
Round 9: 1ch, skip a single crochet 11x, skip a single crochet and sl st, break the thread. Hangers: Attach the thread to the first loop of the buttonhole side of the salopette; Pull 1 ch and start from the first loop on the side, pull 4 sl st, 33 ch (hanger). From the 2nd chain, make 32hdc on the hanger and crochet into the next loop with sl st.

— Pockets :

Round 1: Pull 9ch, 8x starting from chain 2, back;
Round 2: (2 rows):1ch, 8x, back;
Round 3: (2 rows):1ch, 8x, back;
Round 4: 1ch, 1x skip, 7x, go back;
Round 5: 1ch, 7x, go back;
Round 6: 1ch, 1x skip, 6x back;
Round 7: 1ch, 6x, back;
Round 8: 1ch, skip 1x, 5x, done. Leave thread for sewing. crochet the other pocket. * * *Sew the front buttons of the salopette and the button on the back as in the image. Starting to count the pockets from the flo at the hem, sew 7 rows on top of each other, leaving 11 single needles. Dry crayon on front piece, pocket and pocket tops. Wear it by rubbing it with your finger and lightly touching it.

— Shoe :

Round 1: Take 8ch. From 2ch on the same stitch 2hdc, 5hdc, in the same stitch 5hdc, 5hdc, in the same stitch 3hdc, sl st (20hdc)
Round 2: 1ch, 2hdcv, 5hdc, 5hdcv, 5hdc, 3hdcv, sl st (30hdc)
Round 3: 1ch, (hdc,hdcv)*2, 5hdc, (hdc,hdcv)*5, 5hdc, (hdc,hdcv)*3, sl st (40hdc)
Round 4: 1ch, after making 40 sl sts from the block, sink to the beginning of the row with sl st.
Round 5: 2ch, 4th row sl st loops made 40DC, sl st, break the thread.
Round 6: Attach the green thread to the first block of the sl st made in the 4th row. 2ch, 40DC, sl st;
Round 7: 1ch, make 40x, s by sinking the blo of the white thread and the green thread together.
Round 8: 1ch, 12x, 4hdc, hdca, 2hdc, hdca, 2hdc, hdca, 4hdc, 10x, sl st (37)
Round 9: 1ch, 12x, hdc, 2hdca, hdc, 2hdca, hdc, 2hdca, hdc, 9x, sl st (31)
Round 10: 1ch, 11x, a, 8x, a, 8x, sl st (29)
Round 11: 1ch, 9x, hdc, 6hdca, hdc, 6x, sl st (23)
Round 12: 1ch, 12x, ''same loop hdc, DC'', 2DCv, ''same loop DC, hdc'', 7x, sl st * * *The tongue part of the shoe is made. The tongue should come in the middle of the shoe. If slips occur due to hand difference, tongue Scroll the section accordingly and continue with the tariff.
Round 13: After making 1ch, 27sl st, sink into the beginning of the row with sl st, break the rope.
Round 14: Attach the white thread to the first flo loop of the 3rd row of the sole and crochet 40 sl st. * * *The shoe is finished, crochet the other shoe. Attach the laces as in the picture.

— Conc :

Round 1: (11 rows):crochet 24 stitches straight. Row 12:crochet 2 knits, 1 crochet, 20 knits, 1 raises, 2 knits.
Round 2: (11 rows):crochet 24 stitches straight. Row 12:crochet 2 knits, 1 crochet, 20 knits, 1 raises, 2 knits.
Round 3: (11 rows):crochet 24 stitches straight. Row 12:crochet 2 knits, 1 crochet, 20 knits, 1 raises, 2 knits.
Round 4: (11 rows):crochet 24 stitches straight. Row 12:crochet 2 knits, 1 crochet, 20 knits, 1 raises, 2 knits.
Round 5: (11 rows):crochet 24 stitches straight. Row 12:crochet 2 knits, 1 crochet, 20 knits, 1 raises, 2 knits.
Round 6: (11 rows):crochet 24 stitches straight. Row 12:crochet 2 knits, 1 crochet, 20 knits, 1 raises, 2 knits.
Round 7: (11 rows):crochet 24 stitches straight. Row 12:crochet 2 knits, 1 crochet, 20 knits, 1 raises, 2 knits.
Round 8: (11 rows):crochet 24 stitches straight. Row 12:crochet 2 knits, 1 crochet, 20 knits, 1 raises, 2 knits.
Round 9: (11 rows):crochet 24 stitches straight. Row 12:crochet 2 knits, 1 crochet, 20 knits, 1 raises, 2 knits.
Round 10: (11 rows):crochet 24 stitches straight. Row 12:crochet 2 knits, 1 crochet, 20 knits, 1 raises, 2 knits.
Round 11: (11 rows):crochet 24 stitches straight. Row 12:crochet 2 knits, 1 crochet, 20 knits, 1 raises, 2 knits.
Round 13: (9 rows):crochet 26 stitches straight. Row 22:Finish the crochet by cutting 26 stitches. Sew the cone. When dressed on the leg, the narrow part will be downwards. CAT HAT Start with lilac yarn. crochet with 2.20mm crochet. The hat will be spiral crochet.
Round 14: (9 rows):crochet 26 stitches straight. Row 22:Finish the crochet by cutting 26 stitches. Sew the cone. When dressed on the leg, the narrow part will be downwards. CAT HAT Start with lilac yarn. crochet with 2.20mm crochet. The hat will be spiral crochet.
Round 15: (9 rows):crochet 26 stitches straight. Row 22:Finish the crochet by cutting 26 stitches. Sew the cone. When dressed on the leg, the narrow part will be downwards. CAT HAT Start with lilac yarn. crochet with 2.20mm crochet. The hat will be spiral crochet.
Round 16: (9 rows):crochet 26 stitches straight. Row 22:Finish the crochet by cutting 26 stitches. Sew the cone. When dressed on the leg, the narrow part will be downwards. CAT HAT Start with lilac yarn. crochet with 2.20mm crochet. The hat will be spiral crochet.
Round 17: (9 rows):crochet 26 stitches straight. Row 22:Finish the crochet by cutting 26 stitches. Sew the cone. When dressed on the leg, the narrow part will be downwards. CAT HAT Start with lilac yarn. crochet with 2.20mm crochet. The hat will be spiral crochet.
Round 18: (9 rows):crochet 26 stitches straight. Row 22:Finish the crochet by cutting 26 stitches. Sew the cone. When dressed on the leg, the narrow part will be downwards. CAT HAT Start with lilac yarn. crochet with 2.20mm crochet. The hat will be spiral crochet.
Round 19: (9 rows):crochet 26 stitches straight. Row 22:Finish the crochet by cutting 26 stitches. Sew the cone. When dressed on the leg, the narrow part will be downwards. CAT HAT Start with lilac yarn. crochet with 2.20mm crochet. The hat will be spiral crochet.
Round 20: (9 rows):crochet 26 stitches straight. Row 22:Finish the crochet by cutting 26 stitches. Sew the cone. When dressed on the leg, the narrow part will be downwards. CAT HAT Start with lilac yarn. crochet with 2.20mm crochet. The hat will be spiral crochet.
Round 21: (9 rows):crochet 26 stitches straight. Row 22:Finish the crochet by cutting 26 stitches. Sew the cone. When dressed on the leg, the narrow part will be downwards. CAT HAT Start with lilac yarn. crochet with 2.20mm crochet. The hat will be spiral crochet.

— Cat Hat :

Round 1: 6x into the magic ring Row 2:6v (12)
Round 3: (x, v)*6 (18)
Round 4: (2x,v)*6 (24)
Round 5: (3x,v)*6 (30)
Round 6: (4x,v)*6 (36)
Round 7: (5x,v)*6 (42)
Round 8: (6x,v)*6 (48)
Round 9: (7x,v)* 6 (54)
Round 10: (8x,v)*6 (60)
Round 11: (9x,v)*6 (66)
Round 12: (10x,v)*6 (72)
Round 13: (11x,v)*6 (78)
Round 14: (12x,v)*6 (84)
Round 15: (11 rows):84x Row 26:84x, making sl stfinish and break the thread. The brim of the hat: Starting to count from the loop next to the sl st loop made at the end of the hat, attach the thread to the blo of the 37th loop.
Round 16: (11 rows):84x Row 26:84x, making sl stfinish and break the thread. The brim of the hat: Starting to count from the loop next to the sl st loop made at the end of the hat, attach the thread to the blo of the 37th loop.
Round 17: (11 rows):84x Row 26:84x, making sl stfinish and break the thread. The brim of the hat: Starting to count from the loop next to the sl st loop made at the end of the hat, attach the thread to the blo of the 37th loop.
Round 18: (11 rows):84x Row 26:84x, making sl stfinish and break the thread. The brim of the hat: Starting to count from the loop next to the sl st loop made at the end of the hat, attach the thread to the blo of the 37th loop.
Round 19: (11 rows):84x Row 26:84x, making sl stfinish and break the thread. The brim of the hat: Starting to count from the loop next to the sl st loop made at the end of the hat, attach the thread to the blo of the 37th loop.
Round 20: (11 rows):84x Row 26:84x, making sl stfinish and break the thread. The brim of the hat: Starting to count from the loop next to the sl st loop made at the end of the hat, attach the thread to the blo of the 37th loop.
Round 21: (11 rows):84x Row 26:84x, making sl stfinish and break the thread. The brim of the hat: Starting to count from the loop next to the sl st loop made at the end of the hat, attach the thread to the blo of the 37th loop.
Round 22: (11 rows):84x Row 26:84x, making sl stfinish and break the thread. The brim of the hat: Starting to count from the loop next to the sl st loop made at the end of the hat, attach the thread to the blo of the 37th loop.
Round 23: (11 rows):84x Row 26:84x, making sl stfinish and break the thread. The brim of the hat: Starting to count from the loop next to the sl st loop made at the end of the hat, attach the thread to the blo of the 37th loop.
Round 24: (11 rows):84x Row 26:84x, making sl stfinish and break the thread. The brim of the hat: Starting to count from the loop next to the sl st loop made at the end of the hat, attach the thread to the blo of the 37th loop.
Round 25: (11 rows):84x Row 26:84x, making sl stfinish and break the thread. The brim of the hat: Starting to count from the loop next to the sl st loop made at the end of the hat, attach the thread to the blo of the 37th loop.

— Legs :

Round 1: 1ch, 2v from blo, 7x, 2v, back (15)
Round 2: 1ch, v, 13x, v, back (17)
Round 3: 1ch, 3v, x, v, 7x, v, x, 3v, back (25)
Round 4: 1ch, v, 23x, v, back (27)
Round 5: 1ch, v, 4x, v, 15x, v, 4x, v, back (31)
Round 6: 1ch, v, 29x, v, back (33)
Round 7: 1ch, v, 4x, v, x, v, 3x, v, 9x, v, 3x, v, x, v, 4x, v (41)
Round 8: 1ch, v, 39x, v, back (43)
Round 9: 1ch, v, 9x, v, 21x, v, 9x, v, back (47)
Round 10: 1ch, v, 45x, v, back (49)
Round 11: 1ch, 49x, sl st, break thread. * * *Sew the sides of the trench in such a way that it corresponds to 11 frequent crochets by taking a block loop from the hat and a loop from the trench.

— Ear :

Round 1: Do 6x into sh. Row 2:6v (12)
Round 3: (3x,v)*3 Row 44x,v)*3 Row 5:18x Row 65x, v)*3 (21)

— Ears :

Round 1: 8x into the magic ring Row 2:8v (16)
Round 3: (x, v)*8 (24)
Round 4: x,v,(2x,v)*7,x (32)
Round 5: 31x, sl st (32)
Round 7: 1ch, Do 32x with the technique described above, sl st * * *crochet the other side in the same way. Ears will be made on the front of the bag.

— Dress :

Round 1: 1ch, 4x from blo, back;
Round 2: 1ch, skip 1x 3x, go back;
Round 3: 1ch, skip 1x 2x, go back;
Round 4: 1ch, 1x skip x, done, break the string. 2nd ear: Attach the thread to the block of the 7th loop, counting from the side of the first ear. crochet the second ear in the same way as the first ear. * * *There should be 6 frequent needles between the two ears.

Assembly Instructions

  1. Attach the Head to the Body by aligning the neck stitches and whip-stitching securely along the seam between rounds 21 and 25, ensuring an even, doll-like neck contour.
  2. Sew the Arms to each side of the Body between rounds 12 and 14, angling slightly forward for a natural pose and securing firmly with small back-stitches.
  3. Position the Legs under the Body so they sit evenly; sew through the base of the Body and the outer leg sts to anchor without distortion, ensuring balanced stance.
  4. Fit the Hats and Shoes in place before final detailing; the hat sits atop the head, while the shoes anchor to the foot soles with a neat seam and small whip-stitches.
  5. Embroider the facial features after eyes are complete; align the nose between rounds 8 and 9, and position the lips and brows using the marked eye guides for symmetry.

Important Notes

  • Use stitch markers to keep track of rounds during shaping and color changes; they prevent miscounts when adding limbs or facial features.

  • Stuff firmly but evenly to maintain a doll-like shape, avoiding overstuffing which can obscure seam lines and facial details.

  • Weave in ends as you go to prevent loose threads from showing through the final finish, especially around the hat and dress edges.

  • Test-fit each component before joining to ensure correct proportions; small tweaks early on save reworking later.

This Mimosa Baby pattern is a heart-led project that blends whimsy with careful technique. It rewards patience and precise finishing, giving you a character you’ll want to hug again and again. May your days be filled with cozy crochet, soft textures, and tiny, joyful details. May the practice of sewing and embroidery bring you calm and confidence. Happy crocheting and gifting, friend.

Good to know

You ask, we answer

The completed doll stands about 35 cm tall, including the hat and shoes, when worked with the recommended yarns and hook sizes.

Adjust the hook to maintain gauge; a thicker yarn may require up-sizing the hook, while a thinner yarn may need a smaller hook to keep proportions close to the pattern.

Yes. This pattern assumes comfort with in-the-round work, seamless joining, invisible decreases, and careful embroidery for eyes and facial features.

Color substitutions are fine, but keep the overall light-to-dark progression in the dress and hat to preserve the design’s charm; test a small swatch first.

Mimosa Baby wearing purple dress and shoes
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