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Mario Bros Amigurumi Pattern

Four finished Mario Bros amigurumi characters including Mario, Luigi and two princesses arranged together showcasing caps, overalls and dresses
4.4Rating
5-7 HoursTime
IntermediateSkill
Highlights

What makes it special

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

Weekend Treat

Takes about 5-7 hours per character when you follow all rounds and assemble the small details such as the hair, moustache and cap carefully.

Intermediate Level

This pattern suits an intermediate crocheter comfortable with magic ring, working in the round, invisible decreases, colour changes and sewing small parts securely.

These pint-sized Mario Bros amigurumi are designed for makers who love character detail in a compact package and want friendly toys that fit in the palm of a hand. The pattern focuses on small, satisfying sections — shoes and legs, a joined body, a shaped head, hair, cap and tiny accessories — so you can complete a whole doll in a few focused sessions.

Perfect for collectors, gift-giving or playful display, each figure is built using fine weight yarn and a 2.5 mm hook that encourage neat shaping and crisp colour changes for the overalls and clothing details; the PDF guides you step-by-step through every round so you can stitch with confidence from the first magic ring to the last sewn button.

About This Mario Bros Amigurumi Pattern

Make your own pocket-sized Mario and friends with this detailed amigurumi pattern. The PDF includes round-by-round instructions for shoes, legs, body, head, arms, hair, cap and accessories for Mario, Luigi and two princesses. Suitable for crafters who enjoy small character dolls made with fine yarn and precise finishing.

Full materials list and assembly guidance are included to help you sew and style each figure.

This pattern teaches you how to crochet four small amigurumi characters inspired by Mario Bros style, including two plumbers and two princesses, each built from legs, body, head and small sewn accessories.

You will work mostly in spiral rounds using a 2.5 mm hook and fine weight yarn, changing colours for clothes, adding safety eyes, a moustache, hair pieces and small sewn buttons for the overalls.

The pattern breaks every piece down into short, numbered rounds and includes notes about where to join legs to body, where to place eyes and how to stitch hair and cap pieces for a clean finished look.

Close-up of brown hair piece and sideburn detail for an amigurumi head, showing stitching and placement before sewing

The instructions guide you through shoes, legs, the joined body, head shaping, arms, ears, moustache, nose, buttons, hair and cap pieces.

Detailed assembly steps explain where to pin parts and how to sew them so the finished toy sits upright and the facial features are centered and symmetrical.

Stitches & Skills You'll Use

The core stitches used in this pattern are single crochet (sc) worked in continuous rounds from a magic ring (MR), increases (inc) and decreases (dec) for shaping, and slip stitches (sl st) for finishing edges. You will also use half double crochet (hdc) and double crochet (dc) in a few hair and crown sections where the pattern calls for row work instead of rounds. The pattern requires precise stitch-counting when joining legs into the body and during the head decreases from Round 21 onward, so being comfortable with counting and placement is essential.

Colour changes are used frequently to create overalls, shirt bands and cap sections; the instructions show when to switch yarn and whether to work in the front loop or behind the chain for texture shifts. Safety eyes are recommended for the heads and are positioned between rounds 9 and 10 with eight stitches spacing, so practice pinning them first to achieve symmetrical expression before locking them in place.

Sewing skills such as whipstitch and invisible joining are required for assembly: you will sew the head to the neck opening, attach arms at a specified body round, and sew the hair and ear pieces with long tails left to hide inside the head. The moustache is sewn with the top edge attached so the lower edge sits free, adding character and depth to the face; these small finishing techniques make a surprising difference to the final personality of each doll.

Why You'll Love This Mario Bros Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it captures the playful charm of small character amigurumi while staying compact and satisfying to finish. I enjoy the balance of shaping rounds for heads and bodies with the tiny finishing techniques used for moustaches, hair sideburns and the cap emblem. Working through the colour changes for the overalls and cap always makes me smile as the character comes to life.

Sewing the small buttons and placing the eyes is the moment I feel the doll's personality emerge, and I relish that hands-on finishing step.

Colour & Yarn Inspiration

Traditional Mario colours — red cap, blue overalls, brown shoes and peach skin — deliver instant recognition, but this pattern is ideal for creative recolouring: try pastels for a softer, nursery-friendly version, or moody jewel tones for a display set. Use the same No.2 fine yarn in matching shades to keep gauge consistent; substituting fibres like cotton gives a crisper stitch definition while acrylic offers a more forgiving texture for toy durability.

For princess dresses, combine a main dress colour with a contrasting ruffle trim (for example pink with hot pink edging or yellow with orange highlights) and use gold yarn for tiny crown details. When changing colours between rounds for the overalls and shirt bands, carry the unused yarn neatly inside to avoid knots, or fasten off and weave in ends to reduce bulk and keep seams tidy.

Yellow dress front and crown detail for the princess amigurumi, showing stitch texture and crown gems

Switch Things Up

I often change colours to make original characters rather than strictly Mario-themed figures; swapping red for teal or green for purple creates a fresh look unique to my collection.

I sometimes increase the hook size by one step and use a bulkier weight yarn to produce a chunky, huggable version that takes less time but keeps the same shaping language.

I like to embroider different expressions by adjusting the eye placement and eyebrow angle, which transforms the doll’s mood from cheerful to mischievous in an instant.

For a portable keychain version I use finer thread and a 1.75 mm hook to scale the pattern down and attach a small split ring through a sewn loop on the cap.

I add felt or small leather patches to make removable accessories like belts or boot trims that can be changed for seasonal outfits or playtime costumes.

When gifting I often create tiny crocheted props — a little star, mushroom or crown — which I sew to the hand or pin with a safety pin for photo-friendly combinations.

I sometimes give my dolls posable arms by inserting a small piece of coated wire inside the arm before stuffing to hold a wave or a thumbs-up pose.

I recommend experimenting with different eye sizes and finishes: matte safety eyes read softer while glossy eyes catch light for more animated faces.

For the hair, try adding looped curls or fringe by crocheting short chains then anchoring them as individual curls so the princess hair becomes more dynamic and playful.

I always test one substitution (yarn type or hook size) on a practice head before committing to a full character, which saves time and ensures proportions remain pleasing.

Ways to Use & Gift It

These miniature Mario Bros characters make charming gifts for gamers, new parents who appreciate geeky nursery decor, or friends celebrating a birthday — tuck one into a gift box with a tiny crocheted mushroom or star for an extra-special present. Because the dolls are small and lightweight, they travel well and are perfect as stocking stuffers, craft fair items or tokens at party favor tables when given as a set.

To personalise a gift, swap colours to match a receiver’s favourite palette or embroider a small initial inside the cap; attach a loop to the cap for a hanging ornament or keychain, or present a set of two characters as a travelling duo with a tiny crocheted bag so they can become a playful pair for a desk or shelf display.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Skipping a stitch marker when working spirals can make you lose track of the start of round; place and move a marker each round to keep accurate counts and avoid accidental increases or decreases. Tightening the magic ring too loosely leaves a visible hole at the top of small parts; pull the loop snug and weave the tail through the first rounds to close neatly before stuffing. Overstuffing early distorts shaping and makes later decreases hard to close; stuff gradually, using small amounts to shape the foot, body and head then firm fill at the end for a smooth surface. Changing colour without securing ends can create loose tails and messy joins; fasten off cleanly or carry the yarn inside and weave ends immediately to maintain a tidy reverse side. Not counting stitches after increases or decreases leads to incorrect shaping in later rounds; count every completed round and correct mistakes before proceeding to preserving round continuity. Sewing features without pinning results in uneven placement and expression changes; always pin eyes, nose, moustache and ears, step back to check symmetry, then sew securely with small stitches.

Maker's Notes

When I tested this pattern I used No.2 fine yarn and a 2.5 mm hook and it took me about six hours to complete Mario from legs to finishing the cap. I found the legs-to-body join and keeping the stitch count consistent at the first body round required extra attention, and that stuffing the head before the final decreases makes closing easier. Beginners often stumble at colour changes around the overalls and at the sideburn construction in Row 16 of the hair; I recommend pinning sideburns and sewing the hair with a long tail left intentionally to both secure and embroider eyebrows later.

I documented the sequence of rounds and photographed placement of the eyes in rounds 9-10 so replicating the face was straightforward on subsequent attempts.

I tried a substitution: I tried substituting a DK weight yarn with a 3.5 mm hook to make a larger Mario and the result was a toy about 18–20 cm tall with looser stitches that required noticeably more stuffing and firmer seams. The facial details read slightly larger, so I used bigger 10 mm safety eyes and reinforced the moustache with extra whipstitches. The substitution worked well for a chunkier display piece, but I preferred the tighter finished look achieved with fine yarn and a 2.5 mm hook for small, pocket-sized dolls.

Mario Bros Amigurumi Pattern

Download this free crochet pattern to make Mario, Luigi and princess amigurumi with full round-by-round instructions, materials list and assembly tips. Start today and craft your miniature heroes.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours
Pattern at a glance
Skill level
Intermediate
Time to make
5-7 Hours
Hook size
2.5 mm (C/2)
Yarn weight
Fine / #2
Finished size
Mario approx. 13-15 cm / 5.1-5.9 in; Luigi approx. 15-17 cm / 5.9-6.7 in
Gauge
Approximate gauge: 22 sc x 26 rounds = 10 cm square when worked tightly with No.2 fine yarn and a 2.5 mm hook; work tight so stuffing does not show.
Yarn used
Approx. 150 g total yarn for one complete character (approx. 375 metres / 410 yards), allowing small scraps for accessories and details.

Materials Needed

Main Fabric
  • 01
    Fine / No.2 yarn, 50 g skeins (approx. 125 m each) in the following colors: dark brown, light brown, blue, red, yellow, white, peach, green, orange, pink
  • 02
    Additional small quantities of gold and turquoise for crown gems and details, approximately 10 g each
  • 03
    Extra accent color for eyebrows and moustache in dark brown, about 10 g
Tools Required
  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.5 mm
  • 02
    Stitch markers
  • 03
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Pins for positioning parts during assembly
  • 06
    Safety eyes 8 mm (2 pieces per head)
  • 07
    Polyester fibre filling (fiber fill)
  • 08
    Fabric glue (optional for cap front)
  • 09
    Fine embroidery thread for eye outlines and eyebrows

— Magic ring :

Round 1: Loop the yarn around your fingers forming an “X” (I use 2).
Round 2: Insert the hook and pull the thread bellow the thread to create a loop.
Round 3: Chain st;

— Closing it up :

Round 1: Fasten off and leave long yarn to close the part that we’re crocheting.
Round 2: Using a needle, bring it under the back chain of the stitch only, repeat until you close it.

— Let’s begin! ( :

Round 1: Magic ring (6)
Round 2: 2sc in each st (12)
Round 3: 1sc in the next 1st, 1inc x 6 (18)
Round 4: 1sc in the next 2st, 1inc x 6 (24)
Round 5: 1sc in each st (24)
Round 6: 1sc in each st (24)
Round 7: 1sc in the next 5st, 1dec in the next 5st, 1sc in;
Round 8: 1sc in the next 1st, 1dec x 6 (12)
Round 9: 1sc in each st (12)
Round 10: Working behind the ch. 1sc in each st (12)
Round 11: 1sc in each st (12)
Round 12: 1sc in each st (12)
Round 13: 1sc in each st (12)
Round 14: 1sc in each st (12)

— Part 4 :

Round 1: 1sc in the next 9st (1 leg), 1sc in the next 12st of the other;
Round 2: 1sc, 1inc x 8 (36)
Round 3: 1sc in each st (36)
Round 4: 1sc in each st (36)
Round 5: 1sc in each st (36)
Round 6: 1sc in each st (36)
Round 7: 1sc in the next 4st, 1dec x 6 (30)
Round 8: 1sc in each st (30)
Round 9: Working at the back ch. 1sc in the next 3st, 1dec x 6 (24)
Round 10: 1sc in each st (24)
Round 11: 1sc in the next 1st, 1dec x 6 (16)

— Part 5 :

Round 1: 1sc in each st (16)
Round 2: 1sc in the next 1st,1inc x 8 (24)
Round 3: 1sc in the next 2st, 1inc x 8 (32)
Round 4: 1sc in the next 3st, 1inc x 8 (40)
Round 5: 1sc in the next 5st, 1sc and 1inc x 7, 1sc in the next;
Round 6: 1sc in the next 55st, 1inc in next 1st (57)
Round 7: 1sc in each st (57)
Round 8: 1sc in each st (57)
Round 9: 1sc in each st (57)
Round 10: 1sc in each st (57)
Round 11: 1sc in each st (57)
Round 12: 1sc in the next 17st, 1dec x 3 (54)
Round 13: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 14: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 15: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 16: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 17: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 18: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 19: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 20: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 21: 1sc in the next 7st, 1dec x 6 (48)
Round 22: 1sc in the next 6st, 1dec x 6 (42)
Round 23: 1sc in the next 5st, 1dec x 6 (36)
Round 24: 1sc in the next 4st, 1dec x 6 (30)
Round 25: 1sc in the next 3st, 1dec x 6 (24)
Round 26: 1sc in the next 2st, 1dec x 6 (18)
Round 27: 1sc in the next 1st, 1dec x 6 (12)
Round 28: 1dec in the next 6st (6)

— Part 6 :

Round 1: Magic ring (6)
Round 2: 2sc in each st (12)
Round 3: 1sc in each st (12)
Round 4: 1sc in each st (12)
Round 5: 1sc in each st (12)
Round 6: 1sc in the next 1st, 1dec x 6 (8)
Round 7: Working on the front ch. 1sc in each st (8)
Round 8: Working at the back ch from Round 7. 1sc in each st (8)
Round 9: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 10: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 11: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 12: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 13: 1sc in each st (8)

— Ears (Make 2) :

Round 1: Magic ring (6)
Round 2: 2sc in each st (12)
Round 3: 1sc in each st (12)

— Moustache :

Round 1: 15ch;
Round 2: 1sc in each st (15)
Round 3: 1sc in the next 1st, 2dc in the next 1st, 1sc in the next;

— Nose :

Round 1: Magic ring (6)
Round 2: 2sc in each st (12)
Round 3: 1sc in the next 1st, 1inc x 6 (18)
Round 4: 1sc in each st (18)
Round 5: 1sc in each st (18)
Round 6: 1sc in the next 1st, 1dec x 6 (12)

— Part 10 :

Round 1: Magic Ring (4), 1sl st.

— Part 11 :

Round 1: Magic ring (7)
Round 2: 1inc in each st (14)
Round 3: 1sc in the next 1st, 1inc x 7 (21)
Round 4: 1sc in the next 2st, 1inc x 7 (28)
Round 5: 1sc in the next 3st, 1inc x 7 (35)
Round 6: 1sc in the next 4st, 1inc x 7 (42)
Round 7: 1sc in the next 5st, 1inc x 7 (49)
Round 8: 1sc in the next 6st, 1inc x 7 (56)
Round 9: 1sc in the next 27st, 1inc x 2 (58)
Round 10: 1sc in each st (58)
Round 11: 1sc in each st (58)
Round 12: 1sc in each st (58)
Round 13: 1sc in each st (58)
Round 14: 1sc in each st (58)
Round 15: 1sc in each st (58)
Round 16: - 1sc in the next 1st, 8ch, turn and start at the 2ch from the hook, 1hdc in the next 7st and finish with 1sl st (sideburn).
Round 17: 1dec, 1sc in the next 33st, 1dec (35)
Round 18: 1dec, 1sc in the next 31st, 1dec (33)
Round 19: 1sc in the next 1st, 2dc in the next 1st, 1sc in the next;

— Part 12 :

Round 1: Magic ring (7)
Round 2: 1inc in each st (14)
Round 3: 1sc in the next 1st, 1inc x 7 (21)
Round 4: 1sc in the next 2st, 1inc x 7 (28)
Round 5: 1sc in the next 3st, 1inc x 7 (35)
Round 6: 1sc in the next 4st, 1inc x 7 (42)
Round 7: 1sc in the next 5st, 1inc x 7 (49)
Round 8: 1sc in the next 6st, 1inc x 7 (56)
Round 9: 1sc in the next 7st, 1inc x 7 (63)
Round 10: 1sc in each st (63)
Round 11: 1sc in each st (63)
Round 12: 1sc in each st (63)
Round 13: 1sc in each st (63)
Round 14: 1sc in each st (63)
Round 15: 1sc in each st (63)
Round 16: 1sc in each st (63)
Round 17: 1sc in each st (63)
Round 18: 1sc in each st (63)
Round 19: 1sc in each st (63)
Round 20: Working in the front ch. 1sc in the next 18st (18)
Round 21: 1sc in each st (18)
Round 22: 1dec, 1sc in the next 14st, 1dec (16)
Round 23: 1sc in each st (16)
Round 24: 1dec, 1sc in the next 12st, 1dec (14)

— Part 13 :

Round 1: Magic Ring (6), 1sl st and 1ch.
Round 2: Start in the same st. 1inc in each st (12), finish with a sl st and leave long tail to sew to the cap.

— Assemble :

Round 1: Arms: Attach arms at Round 10 of the body, make sure they are even apart. Fasten off and hide the end. 9;
Round 2: Overall: Start at the back, make 1sc in the next 7st in the front ch of Round 9 of the Body, 6ch and go to the front of the Body where you’ll make 1sc in the next 7st, 6ch and end at the back of the body (use the;
Round 4: Moustache: First, always use pins to see how it’ll look. Then, you’ll sew the moustache just below the eyes. Only sew the top of the moustache (see the photo, purple line). Fasten off and hide the end.
Round 5: Nose: Place the nose at the center between the eyes above the moustache. Sew it to the face, fasten off and hide the ends.
Round 6: Ears: First you’ll need to use pins to place the hair, so you can know where the ears go. They must be behind the sideburns, for me it was about 4st apart from the moustache. Before placing them, fold them;

— Let’s begin! ( :

Round 1: Magic ring (6)
Round 2: 2sc in each st (12)
Round 3: 1sc in the next 1st, 1inc x 6 (18)
Round 4: 1sc in the next 2st, 1inc x 6 (24)
Round 5: 1sc in each st (24)
Round 6: 1sc in each st (24)
Round 7: 1sc in the next 5st, 1dec in the next 5st, 1sc in the next;
Round 8: 1sc in the next 1st, 1dec x 6 (12)
Round 9: 1sc in each st (12)
Round 10: Working behind the ch. 1sc in each st (12)
Round 11: 1sc in each st (12)
Round 12: 1sc in each st (12)
Round 13: 1sc in each st (12)
Round 14: 1sc in each st (12)
Round 15: 1sc in each st (12)
Round 16: 1sc in each st (12)
Round 17: 1sc in each st (12)

— Part 16 :

Round 1: 1sc in the next 11st (1 leg), 1sc in the next 12st of the;
Round 2: 1sc, 1inc x 8 (36)
Round 3: 1sc in each st (36)
Round 4: 1sc in each st (36)
Round 5: 1sc in each st (36)
Round 6: 1sc in each st (36)
Round 7: 1sc in the next 4st, 1dec x 6 (30)
Round 8: 1sc in each st (30)
Round 9: Working at the back ch. 1sc in the next 3st, 1dec x 6;
Round 10: 1sc in each st (24)
Round 11: 1sc in each st (24)
Round 12: 1sc in the next 1st, 1dec x 6 (16)

— Part 17 :

Round 1: 1sc in each st (16)
Round 2: 1sc in the next 1st,1inc x 8 (24)
Round 3: 1sc in the next 2st, 1inc x 8 (32)
Round 4: 1sc in the next 3st, 1inc x 8 (40)
Round 5: 1sc in the next 5st, 1sc and 1inc x 7, 1sc in the next 5st, 1sc;
Round 6: 1sc in the next 55st, 1inc in next 1st (57)
Round 7: 1sc in each st (57)
Round 8: 1sc in each st (57)
Round 9: 1sc in each st (57)
Round 10: 1sc in each st (57)
Round 11: 1sc in each st (57)
Round 12: 1sc in the next 17st, 1dec x 3 (54)
Round 13: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 14: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 15: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 16: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 17: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 18: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 19: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 20: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 21: 1sc in the next 7st, 1dec x 6 (48)
Round 22: 1sc in the next 6st, 1dec x 6 (42)
Round 23: 1sc in the next 5st, 1dec x 6 (36)
Round 24: 1sc in the next 4st, 1dec x 6 (30)
Round 25: 1sc in the next 3st, 1dec x 6 (24)
Round 26: 1sc in the next 2st, 1dec x 6 (18)
Round 27: 1sc in the next 1st, 1dec x 6 (12)
Round 28: 1dec in the next 6st (6)

— Part 18 :

Round 1: Magic ring (6)
Round 2: 2sc in each st (12)
Round 3: 1sc in each st (12)
Round 4: 1sc in each st (12)
Round 5: 1sc in each st (12)
Round 6: 1sc in the next 1st, 1dec x 6 (8)
Round 7: Working on the front ch. 1sc in each st (8)
Round 8: Working at the back ch from Round 7. 1sc in each st (8)
Round 9: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 10: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 11: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 12: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 13: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 14: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 15: 1sc in each st (8)

— Ears (Make 2) :

Round 1: Magic ring (6)
Round 2: 2sc in each st (12)
Round 3: 1sc in each st (12)

— Moustache :

Round 1: Magic ring (4)
Round 2: 1sc in the next 1st, 1inc x 2 (6)
Round 3: 1sc in the next 2st, 1inc x 2 (8)
Round 4: 1sc in the next 3st, 1inc x 2 (10)
Round 5: 1sc in each st (10)
Round 6: 1sc in the next 3st, 1dec x 2 (8)
Round 7: 1sc in the next 2st, 1dec x 2 (6)
Round 8: 1sc in the next 2st, 1inc x 2 (8)
Round 9: 1sc in the next 3st, 1inc x 2 (10)
Round 10: 1sc in each st (10)
Round 11: 1sc in the next 3st, 1dec x 2 (8)
Round 12: 1sc in the next 2st, 1dec x 2 (6)
Round 13: 1sc in the next 1st, 1dec x 2 (4)

— Nose :

Round 1: Magic ring (6)
Round 2: 2sc in each st (12)
Round 3: 1sc in the next 1st, 1inc x 6 (18)
Round 4: 1sc in each st (18)
Round 5: 1sc in each st (18)
Round 6: 1sc in the next 1st, 1dec x 6 (12)

— Part 22 :

Round 1: Magic Ring (4), 1sl st.

— Part 23 :

Round 1: Magic ring (7)
Round 2: 1inc in each st (14)
Round 3: 1sc in the next 1st, 1inc x 7 (21)
Round 4: 1sc in the next 2st, 1inc x 7 (28)
Round 5: 1sc in the next 3st, 1inc x 7 (35)
Round 6: 1sc in the next 4st, 1inc x 7 (42)
Round 7: 1sc in the next 5st, 1inc x 7 (49)
Round 8: 1sc in the next 6st, 1inc x 7 (56)
Round 9: 1sc in the next 27st, 1inc x 2 (58)
Round 10: 1sc in each st (58)
Round 11: 1sc in each st (58)
Round 12: 1sc in each st (58)
Round 13: 1sc in each st (58)
Round 14: 1sc in each st (58)
Round 15: 1sc in each st (58)
Round 16: - 1sc in the next 1st, 8ch, turn and start at the 2ch from the hook, 1hdc in the next 7st and finish with 1sl st (sideburn).
Round 17: 1dec, 1sc in the next 33st, 1dec (35)
Round 18: 1dec, 1sc in the next 31st, 1dec (33)
Round 19: 1sc in the next 1st, 2dc in the next 1st, 1sc in the next;

— Part 24 :

Round 1: Magic ring (7)
Round 2: 1inc in each st (14)
Round 3: 1sc in the next 1st, 1inc x 7 (21)
Round 4: 1sc in the next 2st, 1inc x 7 (28)
Round 5: 1sc in the next 3st, 1inc x 7 (35)
Round 6: 1sc in the next 4st, 1inc x 7 (42)
Round 7: 1sc in the next 5st, 1inc x 7 (49)
Round 8: 1sc in the next 6st, 1inc x 7 (56)
Round 9: 1sc in the next 7st, 1inc x 7 (63)
Round 10: 1sc in each st (63)
Round 11: 1sc in each st (63)
Round 12: 1sc in each st (63)
Round 13: 1sc in each st (63)
Round 14: 1sc in each st (63)
Round 15: 1sc in each st (63)
Round 16: 1sc in each st (63)
Round 17: 1sc in each st (63)
Round 18: 1sc in each st (63)
Round 19: 1sc in each st (63)
Round 20: Working in the front ch. 1sc in the next 18st (18)
Round 21: 1sc in each st (18)
Round 22: 1dec, 1sc in the next 14st, 1dec (16)
Round 23: 1sc in each st (16)
Round 24: 1dec, 1sc in the next 12st, 1dec (14)

— Part 25 :

Round 1: Magic Ring (6), 1sl st and 1ch.
Round 2: Start in the same st. 1inc in each st (12), finish with a sl st and leave long tail to sew to the cap.

— Assemble :

Round 1: Arms: Attach arms at Round 11 of the body, make sure they are even apart. Fasten off and hide the end.
Round 2: Overall: Start at the back, make 1sc in the next 7st in the front ch of Round 9 of the Body, 6ch and go to the front of the Body where you’ll make 1hdc in the next 7st, 6ch and end at the back of the body (use the;
Round 5: Ears: First you’ll need to use pins to place the hair, so you can know where the ears go. They must be behind the sideburns, for me it was about 4st apart from the moustache. Before placing them, fold them;

— Start with the pink color yarn :

Round 1: Magic ring (6)
Round 2: 2sc in each st (12)
Round 3: 1sc, 1inc x 6 (18)
Round 4: 1sc in each st (18)
Round 5: 1sc in each st (18)
Round 6: 1sc in the next 3st, 1dec in the next 3st, 1sc and 1dec x 3 (12)
Round 7: 1sc and 1dec x 4 (8)
Round 8: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 9: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 10: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 11: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 12: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 13: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 14: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 15: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 16: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 17: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 18: 1sc in each st (8)

— Part 28 :

Round 1: part is how my legs result. You’ll connect the legs with 1sc (16)

— Part 29 :

Round 1: 1sc in the next 4st (1 leg), 1sc in the next 8st of the other;
Round 2: 1sc, 1inc x 8 (24)
Round 3: 1sc in each st (24)
Round 4: 1sc in each st (24)
Round 5: 1sc in each st (24)
Round 6: Working at the back of the ch. 1sc in each st (24)
Round 7: 1sc in the next 6st, 1dec x 3 (21)
Round 8: 1sc in the next 5st, 1dec x 3 (18)
Round 9: 1sc in each st (18)
Round 10: 1sc in the next 4st, 1dec x 3 (15)
Round 11: 1sc in the next 3st, 1dec x 3 (12)
Round 12: 1sc in the next 1st, 1dec x 3 (8)

— Part 30 :

Round 1: 1hdc in the next 3st, 1inc x 6 (30)
Round 2: 1hdc in the next 4st, 1inc x 6 (36)
Round 3: 1hdc in each st (36)
Round 4: 1hdc in the next 5st, 1inc x 6 (42)
Round 5: 1hdc in each st (42)
Round 6: 1hdc in each st (42)
Round 7: 1hdc in the next 6st, 1inc x 6 (48)
Round 8: 1hdc in each st (48)
Round 9: 1hdc in each st (48)
Round 10: 1hdc in the next 7st, 1inc x 6 (54)
Round 11: 1hdc in each st (54)
Round 12: 1hdc in each st (54)
Round 13: 1hdc in each st (54)
Round 14: 1hdc in each st (54)

— Let’s go back to the head! ( :

Round 1: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 2: 2sc in each st (16)
Round 3: 1sc in the next 1st,1inc x 8 (24)
Round 4: 1sc in the next 2st, 1inc x 8 (32)
Round 5: 1sc in the next 3st, 1inc x 8 (40)
Round 6: 1sc in the next 5st, 1sc and 1inc x 7, 1sc in the next 5st, 1sc and;
Round 7: 1sc in the next 55st, 1inc in next 1st (57)
Round 8: 1sc in each st (57)
Round 9: 1sc in each st (57)
Round 10: 1sc in each st (57)
Round 11: 1sc in each st (57)
Round 12: 1sc in each st (57)
Round 13: 1sc in the next 17st, 1dec x 3 (54)
Round 14: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 15: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 16: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 17: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 18: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 19: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 20: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 21: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 22: 1sc in the next 7st, 1dec x 6 (48)
Round 23: 1sc in the next 6st, 1dec x 6 (42)
Round 24: 1sc in the next 5st, 1dec x 6 (36)
Round 25: 1sc in the next 4st, 1dec x 6 (30)
Round 26: 1sc in the next 3st, 1dec x 6 (24)
Round 27: 1sc in the next 2st, 1dec x 6 (18)
Round 28: 1sc in the next 1st, 1dec x 6 (12)
Round 29: 1dec in the next 6st (6)

— Part 32 :

Round 1: Magic ring (6)
Round 2: 1sc in each st (6)
Round 3: 1sc in each st (6)
Round 4: 1sc in each st (6)
Round 5: 1sc in each st (6)
Round 6: 1sc in each st (6)
Round 7: 1sc in each st (6)
Round 8: 1sc in each st (6)
Round 9: 1inc in each st (12)
Round 10: 1sc in each st (12)
Round 11: 1sc in each st (12)
Round 12: 1sc in the next 1st, 1dec x 4 (8)

— Part 33 :

Round 1: 1hdc in each st (4)
Round 2: 1inc in each st (8)
Round 3: 1inc in each st (16)
Round 4: 1hdc in each st (16)

— Part 34 :

Round 1: Magic ring (4)

— Hair :

Round 1: Magic ring hdc (7)
Round 2: 2hdc in each st (14)
Round 3: 1hdc in the next 1st, 2hdc in the next 1st x 7 (21)
Round 4: 1hdc in the next 2st, 2hdc in the next 1st x 7 (28)
Round 5: 1hdc in the next 3st, 2hdc in the next 1st x 7 (35)

— Part 36 :

Round 1: 1hdc in each st (4)
Round 2: 1inc in each st (8)
Round 3: 1inc in each st (16)

— Part 37 :

Round 1: 1hdc in each st (16)
Round 2: 1dec, 1hdc in the next 12st, 1dec (14)
Round 3: 1dec, 1hdc in the next 10st, 1dec (12)
Round 4: 1dec, 1hdc in the next 8st, 1dec (10)
Round 5: 1dec, 1hdc in the next 6st, 1dec (8)
Round 6: 1dec, 1hdc in the next 4st, 1dec (6)
Round 7: 1dec, 1hdc in the next 2st, 1dec (4)
Round 8: 1dec in the next 2st (2)

— Crown :

Round 1: 1sc in each (16)
Round 2: 1sc in each (16)
Round 3: 1sc and 1hdc in the next 1 st, 2dc in the next 1 st, 1hdc and 1sc in the next 1 st, 1sl st in the next st.

— Assemble :

Round 2: Arms: Attach arms at Round 11 of the body, make sure they are even apart. Fasten off and hide the end.
Round 5: Hair: Using pins put on the hair and make sure it’s like you want it. I sew discreetly the middle part to the head, so it doesn’t fall (not too many stitches). Fasten off and hide the end.
Round 6: Earrings and crown: Earrings: Attach the earrings to the hair at the eye level, fasten off and hide the ends. Crown: Sew the crown to the top of the head, fasten off and hide the ends.

— Start with the orange color yarn :

Round 1: Magic ring (6)
Round 2: 2sc in each st (12)
Round 3: 1sc, 1inc x 6 (18)
Round 4: 1sc in each st (18)
Round 5: 1sc in each st (18)
Round 6: 1sc in the next 3st, 1dec in the next 3st, 1sc and 1dec x 3;
Round 7: 1sc and 1dec x 4 (8)
Round 8: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 9: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 10: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 11: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 12: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 13: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 14: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 15: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 16: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 17: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 18: 1sc in each st (8)

— Part 41 :

Round 1: part is how my legs result. You’ll connect the legs with 1sc (16) (use;

— Part 42 :

Round 1: 1sc in the next 4st (1 leg), 1sc in the next 8st of the other leg,;
Round 2: 1sc, 1inc x 8 (24)
Round 3: 1sc in each st (24)
Round 4: 1sc in each st (24)
Round 5: 1sc in each st (24)
Round 6: Working at the back of the ch. 1sc in each st (24)
Round 7: 1sc in the next 6st, 1dec x 3 (21)
Round 8: 1sc in the next 5st, 1dec x 3 (18)
Round 9: 1sc in each st (18)
Round 10: 1sc in the next 4st, 1dec x 3 (15)
Round 11: 1sc in the next 3st, 1dec x 3 (12)
Round 12: 1sc in the next 1st, 1dec x 3 (8)

— Part 43 :

Round 1: 1hdc in the next 3st, 1inc x 6 (30)
Round 2: 1hdc in the next 4st, 1inc x 6 (36)
Round 3: 1hdc in each st (36)
Round 4: 1hdc in the next 5st, 1inc x 6 (42)
Round 5: 1hdc in each st (42)
Round 6: 1hdc in each st (42)
Round 7: 1hdc in the next 6st, 1inc x 6 (48)
Round 8: 1hdc in each st (48)
Round 9: 1hdc in each st (48)
Round 10: 1hdc in the next 7st, 1inc x 6 (54)
Round 11: Work at the back ch. 1hdc in each st (54)
Round 12: 1hdc in each st (54)
Round 13: 1hdc in each st (54)
Round 14: 1hdc in each st (54)

— Part 44 :

Round 1: 1hdc in the next 8st, 1inc x 6 (60)

— Let’s go back to the head! ( :

Round 1: 1sc in each st (8)
Round 2: 2sc in each st (16)
Round 3: 1sc in the next 1st,1inc x 8 (24)
Round 4: 1sc in the next 2st, 1inc x 8 (32)
Round 5: 1sc in the next 3st, 1inc x 8 (40)
Round 6: 1sc in the next 5st, 1sc and 1inc x 7, 1sc in the next 5st,;
Round 7: 1sc in the next 55st, 1inc in next 1st (57)
Round 8: 1sc in each st (57)
Round 9: 1sc in each st (57)
Round 10: 1sc in each st (57)
Round 11: 1sc in each st (57)
Round 12: 1sc in each st (57)
Round 13: 1sc in the next 17st, 1dec x 3 (54)
Round 14: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 15: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 16: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 17: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 18: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 19: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 20: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 21: 1sc in each st (54)
Round 22: 1sc in the next 7st, 1dec x 6 (48)
Round 23: 1sc in the next 6st, 1dec x 6 (42)
Round 24: 1sc in the next 5st, 1dec x 6 (36)
Round 25: 1sc in the next 4st, 1dec x 6 (30)
Round 26: 1sc in the next 3st, 1dec x 6 (24)
Round 27: 1sc in the next 2st, 1dec x 6 (18)
Round 28: 1sc in the next 1st, 1dec x 6 (12)
Round 29: 1dec in the next 6st (6)

— Part 46 :

Round 1: Magic ring (6)
Round 2: 1sc in each st (6)
Round 3: 1sc in each st (6)
Round 4: 1sc in each st (6)
Round 5: 1sc in each st (6)
Round 6: 1sc in each st (6)
Round 7: 1sc in each st (6)
Round 8: 1sc in each st (6)
Round 9: 1inc in each st (12)
Round 10: 1sc in each st (12)
Round 11: 1sc in each st (12)
Round 12: 1sc in the next 1st, 1dec x 4 (8)

— Part 47 :

Round 1: 1hdc in each st (4)
Round 2: 1inc in each st (8)
Round 3: 1inc in each st (16)
Round 4: 1hdc in each st (16)

— Part 48 :

Round 1: Magic ring (4)
Round 2: 1sc in the next 1st, 1inc x 2 (6)

— Hair :

Round 1: Magic ring hdc (7)
Round 2: 2hdc in each st (14)
Round 3: 1hdc in the next 1st, 2hdc in the next 1st x 7 (21)
Round 4: 1hdc in the next 2st, 2hdc in the next 1st x 7 (28)
Round 5: 1hdc in the next 3st, 2hdc in the next 1st x 7 (35)

— Part 50 :

Round 1: 1sc in each st (10)
Round 2: 1sc in the next 8st, 1dec (9)
Round 3: 1dec, 1sc in the next 7sc (8)
Round 4: 1sc in the next 6st, 1dec (7)
Round 5: 1dec, 1sc in the next 5st (6)
Round 6: 1sc in the next 4st, 1dec (5)
Round 7: 1dec, 1sc in the next 3st (4)
Round 8: Make 4ch, turn and start at the 2nd ch from your hook, 1sc in the next 1 st, 1hdc in the next 2st.
Round 9: Make 4ch, turn and start at the 2nd ch from your hook, 1sc in the next 1 st, 1hdc in the next 2st.
Round 10: Make 5ch, turn and start at the 2nd ch from your hook, 1inc, 1sc in the next 3st (5)
Round 11: 1sc in the next 4st, 1inc (6)
Round 12: 1inc, 1sc in the next 5st (7)
Round 13: 1sc in the next 6st, 1inc (8)
Round 14: 1inc, 1sc in the next 7st (9)
Round 15: 1sc in the next 8st, 1inc (10)
Round 16: 1inc, 1sc in the next 9st (11)
Round 17: You’ll make 1ch and turn, make 1sc in each st (see photo for guidance). For me it was 20sc.
Round 18: 1sc in each st (20)
Round 19: 1dec, 1sc in the next 16st, 1dec (18)
Round 20: 1dec, 1sc in the next 14st, 1dec (16)

— Crown :

Round 1: 1sc in each (16)
Round 2: 1sc in each (16)
Round 3: 1sc and 1hdc in the next 1 st, 2dc in the next 1 st, 1hdc and 1sc in the next 1 st, 1sl st in the next st.
Round 6: Earrings and crown: Earrings: Attach the earrings to the hair at the eye level, fasten off and hide the ends.

Assembly Instructions

  1. Attach head to the body by aligning the neck opening from the body rounds and whipstitching the head around the neck, making sure the facial center faces forward and the seam is neat.
  2. Position arms at Round 10 of the body, pin them evenly on both sides so hands angle slightly forward, then sew the long tail through the arm top into the body to secure.
  3. Sew legs to the bottom of the body using the tail left from the second leg join, spacing legs evenly and reinforcing with several passes so the figure stands upright.
  4. Place the hair piece at the back of the head and sew along the base; use the same thread to embroider eyebrows and glue the front of the hair and sideburns with fabric glue rather than sewing.
  5. Fold each ear in half and join them before sewing; position ears behind the sideburns approximately four stitches from the moustache and sew only the base so they tuck slightly under the hair.
  6. Pin the moustache under the eyes following the photo guide, then sew only the top edge of the moustache to the face so the lower edge sits free and gives character.
  7. Attach the white circle emblem to the front of the red cap using fabric glue or whipstitch, then embroider or sew the red 'M' onto the white circle before affixing the cap to the head.

Important Notes

  • Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round to keep your rounds accurate and counts consistent during shaping and colour changes.
  • Stuff small pieces lightly at first and finish with firm stuffing once shaping is nearly complete to avoid lumps and to allow closing decreases cleanly.
  • Pin all parts in position before sewing so you can check balance and symmetry; small shifts in position for eyes or ears dramatically change the expression.
  • When changing colours for clothing bands, carry the yarn neatly or fasten off and weave in tails immediately to keep the inside tidy and avoid bulk.
  • Work with consistent tension; the pattern assumes a firm gauge so stitches hold stuffing and details without gaps.

These little Mario Bros characters were designed to be pocket-sized amigurumi companions to make and share. The combination of tiny overalls, expressive moustaches and removable caps creates playful personality in each doll. Detailed assembly notes and step photos in the PDF guide you through pinning and sewing for professional-looking results. Happy making and enjoy gifting your handmade heroes!

Good to know

You ask, we answer

Mario finishes at roughly 13–15 cm tall using the recommended No.2 fine yarn and a 2.5 mm hook; Luigi and the princess figures vary slightly but are within the 13–17 cm range depending on stuffing firmness and small variations in stitch tension.

Yes, you can substitute yarn weight, but the finished size will change proportionally; using a heavier yarn and larger hook gives a chunkier doll while thinner yarn and a smaller hook yields a tiny, delicate figure, so adjust stuffing and eye size accordingly for best results.

I recommend sewing the hair base for durability and using fabric glue for the cap front or small decorative pieces if you prefer a cleaner look; sewing combined with a spot of fabric glue for the front edge gives the neater result I use for display dolls.

Place the safety eyes between rounds 9 and 10 on the head with about eight stitches between them as indicated in the pattern; pin first and check the face from a few angles before securing to ensure a balanced expression.

This pattern is best for an intermediate crocheter because it uses continuous rounds, multiple colour changes, shaping decreases and relatively small parts that require confident seaming skills and neat finishing for the best result.

Most makers complete a single character in about five to seven hours when following the rounds precisely and taking time for careful assembly and finishing touches like embroidery, depending on experience and familiarity with small amigurumi construction.

Blue overall body with joined legs and a crochet hook in the image, illustrating the body joining step for amigurumi
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