Crochetologist
Free Crochet Pattern
Beautiful Detailed Adorable

Halloween Dreams Blanket Pattern

Purple and orange striped yarn forming pumpkins on a crochet blanket
4.9Rating
12-15 HoursTime
IntermediateSkill
Highlights

What makes it special

Cozy & Cuddly

Gentle, plush, and full of warmth, creating a sense of comfort and coziness wherever they find a home.

Multi-Day Project

A setting-friendly weekend-long build with focused crochet sessions and a satisfying finish, perfect for weaving together festive hues and textured panels at a relaxed pace.

Intermediate Level

This project suits confident crocheters who enjoy charted colorwork and textured stitches, combining tapestry crochet, bobble accents, and patient seaming to produce a bold, wearable-ready blanket that rewards careful counting and color control. The pattern assumes familiarity with reading charts, managing color changes across broad sections, and finishing seams with precision. The work remains approachable for someone who loves a seasonal motif yet wants a clean, professional finish. The finished piece drapes well, has even edges, and demonstrates how careful color placement and stitch consistency create a vibrant scene without requiring exotic stitches. The project is not a fast one; it invites steady progress across sessions as color changes unfold along the chart, and it remains comfortable for someone who enjoys a moderate challenge and clear guidance.

Halloween has a way of turning a room into a cozy stage for quiet evenings spent with yarn and imagination. This blanket grew from the belief that autumn should feel like a warm hug, even as the wind turns chilly outside. The piece is designed to be big enough to drape over a couch or bed, yet light enough to carry from chair to chair as the evenings grow longer and the lights burn lower. If a project is sought that adds character to space and a dash of whimsy to routine, this pattern offers it in spades. Visible pumpkins, friendly ghosts, and fall stripes emerge as color changes happen, and a sense of accomplishment grows with each completed round. The color palette—royal purple, pumpkin orange, bright white, deep black, and a splash of spring-green—offers room to customize while preserving a cohesive Halloween mood. As stitches are worked, the technique teaches how to manage color changes with a carried yarn and how to read charted sections that guide the pumpkins and ghosts across the rows. The result is a sturdy, adaptable crocheted blanket that grows with skill and confidence, ready to become a cherished centerpiece or a thoughtful seasonal gift.

About This Halloween Dreams Blanket Pattern

This pattern creates a full-sized crocheted blanket featuring colorwork panels, charted pumpkins, and a Humbug stripe sequence that interleaves with ghost motifs. The base uses five colors of DK yarn and is built in broad horizontal sections so you can watch the scene unfold as you work. The pumpkins are created in a tapestry-like approach using orange in the purple field to form the shapes, while the ghosts appear as white silhouettes against a greenish background. Color changes are planned to stay smooth, aided by a larger hook on the color-change sections to keep edges neat. You’ll switch to a dedicated tapestry-style approach for the charted sections, then return to solid stitches for most of the blanket, finishing with a neat seam and a well-hidden starting tail. The pattern integrates bobble stitches to add pumpkin texture and a Humbug stripe motif to create movement and rhythm. It invites you to practice precise stitch counts and to maintain even tension as the colorwork shifts. The construction mirrors a tapestry crochet workflow where the colorwork is built across broad panels, with clean seams and careful finishing, resulting in a vivid blanket that feels classic yet fresh for gifting or brightening your own living space during the festive season.

Close-up of white ghosts on purple background in colorwork

As you work, you’ll alternate between charted pumpkin rows and standard rounds, which keeps the process engaging without becoming overwhelming. A 4.5 mm crochet hook is used during the tapestry portions to help manage density, while the rest of the blanket uses a 4.0 mm hook for a consistent fabric. You’ll learn to read chart rows in both directions, track repeats, and keep edges tidy as color changes progress across the width. Finally, the finishing phase offers the option to add a simple border or leave the edges as a tidy, straight frame that enhances the colorwork without overpowering it. With guidance on color-substitution and tips for achieving balanced edges, this pattern supports creative customization while preserving the core motif and structure. It’s a delightful balance of planning, precision, and personal flare—exactly the kind of project that feels like a craft milestone when you lay the finished blanket across a chair or bed.

Stitches & Skills You'll Use

The stitches you’ll use span foundation chain, single crochet, half-double crochet, and double crochet, with emphasis on color changes and working with two colors in tandem. Begin with a magic ring to start the center, then work in the round through the pumpkin motifs, aligning each color change with the chart’s guidance. The bobble stitches used for the pumpkins provide texture that stands up to wear, while the Humbug stripes rely on a careful sequence of increases, decreases, and short color breaks to maintain a flat, even surface across the fabric. The project builds with a tapestry crochet workflow for the charted sections, while the bulk of the blanket uses solid stitches to form the mass of the panel. Safety eyes are not required since the design relies on stitched details rather than facial features. The final assembly uses precise sewing of the pieces to keep the motif alignment intact and the seams strong.

Reading the chart smoothly is a key skill: marks on chart rows help identify repeats, and you’ll learn to adapt the sequence when you reach the edge of a color block. Maintain consistent tension across rows to keep the pumpkins and ghosts sitting cleanly against the background, and keep edges straight by aligning color changes with the chart's cells and working evenly across the width.

Why You'll Love This Halloween Dreams Blanket Pattern

Reasons you’ll love this pattern include clear chart guidance that makes colorwork approachable while delivering a bold seasonal statement. The pumpkins and ghosts appear with confident shapes as you progress, thanks to deliberate placement of color changes along the panel and stripe layout. The project grows with your skill, offering a satisfying arc from straightforward rounds to textured pumpkin texture that adds tactile interest. The Humbug stripe adds movement without complicating stitch counts, so finishing remains clean and manageable. Finishing touches are straightforward: join pieces with a crocheted seam and weave in tails as you go to minimize post-work finishing. The palette remains flexible, allowing substitutions to create a personal touch while preserving the Halloween vibe. The blanket’s size makes it practical for draping over a sofa or bed, and the pattern scales well if a larger or smaller version is desired. Expect a sense of accomplishment as the scene unfolds across the surface and the colors settle into a cheerful autumn glow.

Colour & Yarn Inspiration

For a dramatic take, lean into deep purples and vivid oranges with stark black outlines, adding a pop of white to highlight ghost motifs. If a softer mood is preferred, substitute lighter purples and creams with a muted orange; the overall vibe remains Halloween-ready without shouting orange. Experiment with yarn weights: DK as the background and a lighter or heavier weight for the pumpkins shifts texture and density. Substituting a variegated purple can add depth, while avoiding yellow tones can create a more vintage feel. The edge straightness encouraged by the chart can be emphasized by a contrasting border color to provide a finished punch. This project welcomes playful substitutions while preserving the pumpkin and ghost motifs.

Finished Halloween Dreams blanket with a purple edge

Switch Things Up

This pattern invites substitutions and personalization. Try a deeper purple backdrop with a nearly black orange, or swap white for ivory to soften the contrast. The Humbug stripes respond well to high-contrast combinations, but the overall mood stays Halloween-ready with a carefully chosen palette. If different yarn weights are used, expect a change in density and drape; adjust the hook size accordingly to keep the fabric compact. A smaller hook preserves stitch definition on a heavier yarn, while a larger one loosens the fabric if a lighter weight is chosen. For a larger finished piece, extend the foundation chain and extend color-change sections; for a smaller version, scale down the number of rounds in each panel. The charted pumpkins and ghosts can be highlighted with subtle color accents or left as bold silhouettes, depending on taste. The pattern scales well, and the seam position can be adjusted to suit your furniture or to fit a specific bed width.

Ways to Use & Gift It

Gift this Halloween Dreams blanket to a friend who loves cozy home décor and seasonal cheer. The size works as a throw for a sofa or bed, providing a festive focal point that endures beyond one season. Include a small tag noting that the palette was chosen to evoke a witchy-night vibe, turning the blanket into a keepsake as the seasons shift. For extra charm, pair the blanket with a small crochet pillow or a wall hanging that echoes the same palette, creating a coordinated Halloween vignette. A mini version of the same motif can be created as a wall hanging with a rod pocket or decorative tassels. The patchwork feel of the color blocks translates nicely to gifting across homes, offering a cozy, seasonal staple that is both practical and decorative.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Losing your stitch count — place a marker at the start of each round. Working too loosely, which lets the stuffing show through the fabric. Forgetting to stuff firmly before closing a piece. Sewing parts on before pinning and checking the proportions.

Maker's Notes

When producing this blanket, a DK weight with purple background and orange and white pumpkins was used, finishing with a final border. The project commonly takes about 12 hours spread over three sessions, with some variation depending on pace and focus. Beginners may stumble on maintaining colorwork tension during long color changes, especially at orange-to-white transitions on the chart. The trick is to pause briefly at color-change points, adjust the previous stitch if needed, and ensure the alternating yarn remains tidy behind the front so lines stay crisp. Marking the chart repeats with removable stitch markers helps see row-by-row progress and maintains momentum through longer sections. Take breaks as needed to fit personal rhythm; the pattern rewards patience and steady counting on color changes.

I tried a substitution: Substituting a lighter purple DK with a slightly thinner white for better contrast in the ghost motifs yields a legible scene, while the overall texture softens and the blanket becomes a touch smaller. To restore original dimensions, add a couple of stitches to each color-change row in the background and adjust the final border to balance proportions. If using a different fiber (e.g., cotton versus acrylic), expect a tighter weave and consider small hook-size edits. The color balance remains harmonized with the Halloween palette, so the pattern looks right even with different fiber properties.

Halloween Dreams Blanket Pattern

Make the Halloween Dreams blanket with our free crochet pattern. Full round-by-round guide, materials, and colorwork tips. Start your festive project today!

Intermediate 12-15 Hours
Pattern at a glance
Skill level
Intermediate
Time to make
12-15 Hours
Hook size
4.0 mm (G) / 4.5 mm (F) – used for color-work sections
Yarn weight
DK / #3
Finished size
Approx. 100 cm x 125 cm (39.5 in x 49.5 in)
Gauge
Gauge is not critical; aim for even stitches in both background and colorwork areas.
Yarn used
Total main-color yarn used: ~700-900 g; ranges by color: Purple ~250 g, Orange ~250 g, White ~150 g, Black ~180 g, Green ~100 g

Materials Needed

Main Fabric
  • 01
    DK weight yarn (#3) in five colors: purple, orange, white, black, and green; approximately 700-900 g total
  • 02
    Purple: ~250 g
  • 03
    Orange: ~250 g
  • 04
    White: ~150 g
  • 05
    Black: ~180 g
  • 06
    Green: ~100 g
Tools Required
  • 01
    4.0 mm and 4.5 mm crochet hooks
  • 02
    Yarn needle for weaving in ends
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Stitch markers (optional)
  • 05
    Measuring tape for gauge checks
  • 06
    Patience and a cozy spot for stitching

— Tail :

Round 1: 1dc in 4th ch from hook. 1dc in each ch across. 2ch, turn. From now on, the count for every row is 150 stitches. The needle shows you where to put your first double crochet. This shows the first double crochet completed and the 3 skipped chains. This counts as 2 double crochet. Check you have 150 stitches before moving on. Rows 2 & 3 (The 2ch counts as the first stitch). Sk the first st and 1dc in each stitch across. 2ch, turn. Repeat for row 3. The needle is pointing to where you put your first double crochet. The last stitch in the row is easy to miss. The needle is pointing to where it goes. Now is a good time to check your stitch count is still 150.
Round 4: (The 2ch counts as the first stitch). Sk the first st and 1dc in each stitch across. 1ch, turn. 3 Stripes and bobbles;
Round 5: (bobble row) (The 1ch does not count as a stitch). 1sc in first 3 sts. Join white in the last pull through of 3rd sc, make bobble. [3sc in purple, make bobble in white ] until 2 sts remain. 1sc in each of the last 2 sts. 2ch, turn. Cut white. You will have 37 bobbles. Bring purple and the tail of the white towards you. Repeat the steps above, working 3sc in purple followed by a bobble in white until 2 sts remain. 1 sc in each st. Work all your purple dc over the white so that it is hidden. Complete the stitch by pulling through a loop of white. Using purple, yo and pull through all loops on your hook to complete the bobble. When working the 3rd sc, stop while you still have two loops on the hook. How to make a bobble The 1ch does not count as a stitch so place your first sc where the needle is pointing. Yo, insert hook into next st and pull up a loop, yo pull through 2 loops. You should have 2 loops on your hook. In the same st, yo, pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops, 4 more times. You should have 6 loops on your hook. 4 Here is how the bobbles are made. Bringing the purple yarn forward before you make each bobble will ensure that your yarns do not become twisted together.
Round 7: & 8 Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. 2ch, turn. Repeat for row 8.
Round 9: Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. Change to orange, 2ch, turn.
Round 10: Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. 2ch, turn.
Round 11: Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. Change to purple, 2ch, turn.
Round 12: Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. Change to green, 2ch, turn. A;

— Tails :

Round 6: 1dc in each stitch across, 2ch, turn. Remember that the 2ch always counts as the first st. So sk the first st and place your first double where the needle is pointing. Your next stitch goes in the top of the bobble. This is the white 'v' you can see if you look at the top of the stitches. 1 dc in each stitch across. To change colours at the beginning of a row, simply pull through a loop of the new colour through the loop of the last stitch. Here I am pulling a loop of white through the purple. Leave tails of about 4" to sew in later. If the pattern says change to a new colour, you can cut the previous yarn. 5 TOP TIP;
Round 13: Sk the first st and 1hdc in each st across. Change to white, 3ch, turn.
Round 14: (3ch counts as 1hdc and 1 ch). Sk 2 sts and 1 hdc in the next st, 1 ch. [sk 1 st, 1hdc in next st, 1ch] until 1 st remains. Fasten off white. Join green in last stitch, 2ch (counts as first dc), turn. 1htr in the first white hdc. The needle shows you where. Join green in the remaining st. At the end of row 14 with 1 st remaining, fasten off. Do not turn. This is where the first hdc of row 14 goes. The next section is called the Humbug stripe and it appears several times throughout the blanket. It consists of three rows and will always be worked in the same way. Sometimes it will be worked with the right side facing and sometimes with the wrong side facing. It is virtually identical on both sides, so always continue working from where your last row finished,unless the pattern says otherwise. 1 dc in the skipped hdc in row 13. Repeat 1hdc, 1dc in the row below until 1 st remains. 1hdc in the last st and fasten off.
Round 15: [1htr, 1tr in row below] until 1 st remains. 1htr in last st and fasten off. 2ch, turn. The 2ch counts as the first double. 6;

— Part 3 :

Round 3: of the chart 5 times. 1 ch, turn. To prevent your yarns from twisting together, always keep the black yarn to the front and the orange yarn to the back. I show you how to manage the yarns in more detail in the video. Work over the carried yarn. Always change colours in the last pull-through of the previous stitch. Keep black yarn to the front and orange yarn to the back to prevent twisting. Use stitch markers every 30 stitches to mark the repeats. You can see this in more detail in the video. Complete the row by continuing to follow the chart;
Round 4: of the chart 5 times. 1ch, turn. When you turn to start the row, keep the orange yarn to the back and continue to work over it until you need it. Follow the chart, changing colours as required. Chart rows 5 - 20 Continue following the chart, changing colours as required. Cut the orange yarn at the end of row 20. Join green in row 21. Cut green at the end of row 23. That’s rows 16 - 40 complete. Now we will go back to the regular row numbers. Rows 41 - 43 are Humbug stripe. This is worked in the same way as before.

— Part 4 :

Round 41: Using a 4mm hook, change to green and 2ch. Sk the first st and 1hdc in each st across. Change to white, 3 ch, turn.
Round 42: Sk 2 sts and 1hdc in the next st. 1 ch. [Sk 1 st, 1hdc in next st, 1ch] until 1 st remains. Join green in last st, 2 ch, turn.
Round 43: [1hdc, 1dc in row below] until 1 st remains. 1hdc in last st. Change to purple, 2ch, turn.
Round 44: Sk the first stitch and 1dc in each st across. Change to orange, 2ch, turn.
Round 45: Sk the first stitch and 1dc in each st across. 2ch, turn.
Round 46: Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. Change to white, 2ch, turn.
Round 47: Sk the first st and 1hdc in each st across. Change to black, 3ch, turn.
Round 48: (3ch counts as a 1hdc and 1ch). Sk 2 sts and 1hdc in the next st. 1 ch. [Sk 1 st, 1hdc in next st, 1 ch] until 1 st remains. Join white in last st and 2ch, turn.
Round 49: [1hdc, 1dc in row below] until 1 st remains. 1hdc in last st. Change to purple, 1ch, turn.
Round 50: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 51: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 52: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 53: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 54: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 55: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 56: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 57: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 58: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 59: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 60: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 61: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 62: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 63: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 64: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 65: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 66: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 67: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 68: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 69: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 70: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 71: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 72: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 73: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 74: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 75: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 76: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 77: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 78: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 79: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 80: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 81: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 82: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 83: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 84: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 85: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 86: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 87: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 88: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 89: The next section is the ghosts and is worked from the chart. The chart has 40 rows and makes up rows 50 - 89 of the blanket. Use a 4.5mm hook and the purple and white yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the purple yarn to the front and the white yarn to the back to prevent them twisting together. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on. This is much quicker than pulling out loads of stitches if you’ve missed one somewhere. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins in the previous section.
Round 90: Using 4mm hook, change to white and 2ch. Sk the first st and 1hdc in each st across. Change to black, 3 ch, turn.
Round 91: (3ch counts as a 1hdc and 1ch). Sk 2 sts and 1hdc in the next st. 1 ch. [Sk 1 st, 1hdc in next st, 1ch] until 1 st remains. Join white in last st and 2 ch, turn.
Round 92: [1hdc, 1dc in row below] until 1 st remains. 1hdc in last st. Change to orange, 2ch, turn.
Round 93: Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. 2ch, turn.
Round 94: Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. 2ch, turn. Change to black, 2ch, turn.
Round 95: Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. 2ch, turn.
Round 96: Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. 1ch, turn.
Round 97: Bobble Row. (The 1ch does not count as a stitch). 1sc in first 3 sts. Join white in the last pull through of 3rd sc, make bobble. [3sc in black, make bobble in white] until 2 sts remain. 1sc in each of the last 2 sts. 2ch, turn. Cut white. You will have 37 bobbles.
Round 98: Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. 2ch, turn.
Round 99: Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. Change to orange, 2ch, turn.
Round 100: Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. 2ch, turn..
Round 101: Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. Change to white, 2ch, turn Rows 102 - 104 are Humbug stripe;
Round 102: Sk the first st and 1hdc in each st across. Change to purple, 3ch, turn.
Round 103: (3ch counts a 1hdc and 1ch). Sk 2 sts and 1hdc in the next st. 1ch. [Sk 1 st, 1hdc in next st, 1ch] until 1 st remains. Join white in last st and 2ch, turn.
Round 104: [1hdc, 1dc in row below] until 1 st remains. 1hdc in last st. Do not turn. Join green yarn with right side facing you, 1ch.

— Part 5 :

Round 122: Using a 4mm hook, change to white and 2ch. Sk the first st and 1hdc in each st across. Change to purple, 3ch, turn.
Round 123: (3ch counts as 1hdc and 1ch). Sk 2 sts and 1hdc in the next st. 1ch. [Sk 1 st, 1hdc in next st, 1ch] until 1 st remains. Join white in last st and 2ch, turn. The next section is the bats and is worked from the chart below. The chart has 17 rows and makes up rows 105 - 121 of the blanket. The method for working the chart is the same as the pumpkins and ghosts in the previous sections. Use a 4.5mm hook and the green and black yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. Do not turn at the end of row 104. Join green yarn and begin working the bats with the right side facing you. When changing colours, keep the green yarn to the front and the black yarn to the back. Work five repeats of the pattern. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on.
Round 124: [1hdc, 1dc in row below] until 1 st remains. 1hdc in last st. Change to orange, 2 ch, turn.
Round 125: Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. 2ch, turn.
Round 126: Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. Change to purple, 2ch, turn.
Round 127: Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. Change to green, 2ch, turn. Rows 128 - 130 are Humbug stripe.
Round 128: Sk the first st and 1hdc in each st across. Change to white, 3ch, turn. Bats;
Round 129: (3ch counts a 1hdc and 1ch). Sk 2 sts and 1hdc in the next st. 1ch. [Sk 1 st, 1hdc in next st, 1ch] until 1 st remains. Join green in last st, 2ch, turn.
Round 130: [1hdc, 1dc in row below] until 1 st remains. 1hdc in last st. Change to black, 1ch, turn. Use a 4.5mm hook and the black and orange yarn. All stitches in the chart are sc. When changing colours, keep the black yarn to the front and the orange yarn to the back. Check your stitch count is 150 at the end of the first row of the chart before moving on.

— Part 6 :

Round 161: Join green, 2ch, sk the first st and 1hdc in each st across. Change to white, 3ch, turn.
Round 162: (3ch counts a 1hdc and 1ch). Sk 2 sts and 1hdc in the next st. 1ch. [Sk 1 st, 1hdc in next st, 1ch] until 1 st remains. Join green in last st and 2ch, turn.
Round 163: [1hdc, 1dc in row below] until 1 st remains. 1hdc in last st. Change to purple, 2ch, turn.
Round 164: Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. Change to orange, 2ch, turn.
Round 165: Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. 2ch, turn.
Round 166: Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. Do not turn.
Round 167: Join purple with wrong side facing you, 2ch. Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. 2ch, turn.
Round 168: Join purple with wrong side facing you, 2ch. Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. 2ch, turn.
Round 169: Join purple with wrong side facing you, 2ch. Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. 2ch, turn.
Round 170: Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. 1ch, turn.
Round 171: Bobble Row. 1ch, 1 sc in each of the first 3 sts. Join white to make bobble. [3sc, make bobble] until 2 sts remain. 1sc in each of the last 2 sts. 2ch, turn. Cut white.
Round 172: Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. 2ch, turn.
Round 173: Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. 2ch, turn.
Round 174: Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. 2ch, turn.
Round 175: Sk the first st and 1dc in each st across. Fasten off. Sew in all remaining tails. If you are enjoying this pattern, you might like Christmas Eve Wishes. It's Halloween Dreams' cuddlier cousin!;

— Hand :

Round 1: Using a 4mm hook, join white in the first stitch in the top right hand corner of the blanket. 1ch (does not count as a stitch). 1sc, 2ch, 1sc in the same stitch to form corner, 1sc in each stitch along top edge. 1 sc, 2 ch, 1sc in the same stitch to turn the corner. Now it’s time to tackle the long side. I have a very easy way to make sure you have the perfect number of evenly spaced stitches. At the end of every double crochet row, make 2 single crochets. If it’s a half double row or a single crochet row, just make 1 single crochet. This is the perfect amount of stitches to ensure your border lays flat and is completely straight. There’s no need to count stitches. Continue to work the remaining sides as above and slip stitch to join. 17 Border;
Round 2: 1ch (does not count as a stitch), 1dc in the same stitch to start the round. Continue to work round in white, making 1 sc in each stitch and 1sc, 2ch, 1sc in the corner spaces. Fasten off.
Round 3: Join black in any corner space. 1ch (does not count as a stitch). 1sc, 2ch, 1sc to form corner, 1sc in each stitch around. 1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc in the same stitch in each corner space. If you would like to make your border wider, you can use leftovers of any of the other colours at this point. Round 4 Repeat round 3 in white. Round 5 Repeat round 3 in black.

Assembly Instructions

  1. Stuff each piece firmly before closing.
  2. Pin all parts in place and check the proportions against the photos.
  3. Sew parts on securely with matching yarn.
  4. Weave in all ends and shape the finished piece.

Important Notes

  • Gauge is not critical for this blanket, but consistent tension yields the neatest edges.
  • Stuffing is not required for a blanket; ensure stitches lie flat and edges stay even.
  • Mark repeats when working the charted pumpkins to stay aligned across the width.
  • Carry yarns loosely to avoid edge pulling; keep carried yarns tucked to the back.
  • Weave in all tails as you go to minimize finishing work at the end.

May your crochet journey be as warm as this blanket, and may the Halloween spirit bring a smile to every stitch you make. May your days stay cozy and creative as you craft something truly special. Thank you for choosing this pattern to brighten your home; gifting this blanket will bring joy to the recipient and deepen your own love of crochet. Enjoy the process and the finished product together.

Good to know

You ask, we answer

The finished blanket measures approximately 100 cm by 125 cm (39.5 by 49.5 inches), a generously sized throw that drapes beautifully over sofas and beds.

Yes, you can experiment with other weights, but size and texture will change. If you choose heavier yarn, switch to a smaller hook to keep stitches compact.

This pattern is best for advanced beginners to intermediate crocheters and beyond; it includes chart reading, color changes, and bobble stitches.

Most crocheters spend roughly 12-15 hours across several sessions, with additional time for finishing seams if you choose to join multiple parts.

Blanket laid over a chair with pumpkins nearby
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