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Free Crochet Pattern
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For The Fallen Armed Forces Amigurumi Pattern

Three uniformed amigurumi figures on a round platform with LED centrepiece and poppies, handmade crochet display amigurumi
4.7Rating
8-10 HoursTime
IntermediateSkill
Highlights

What makes it special

Made with Love

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

All-Day Adventure

Expect to spend approximately 8 to 10 hours assembling the three figures, sewing small details and finishing the platform when using the recommended yarn and 2.0 mm hook.

Intermediate Level

This project suits crocheters comfortable with magic ring starts, invisible decreases, working in the round, front/back loop work and colour changes, and it requires careful seaming and small-piece assembly.

This pattern captures a quiet, handmade salute and is perfect for makers who want to create a thoughtful memorial display that honors service with small, careful details.

It suits anyone looking for a meaningful gift, a mantelpiece tribute or a crafted remembrance that combines simple amigurumi shaping with tidy uniform trims and small sewn poppies.

About This For The Fallen Armed Forces Amigurumi Pattern

This set creates three respectful amigurumi figures—a soldier, a sailor and a pilot—mounted on a crocheted platform with poppies and an LED centrepiece. The pattern uses light weight (#3) yarn and a 2.0 mm hook and includes parts for heads, upper bodies, sleeves, arms, legs, boots, belts, collars, hats, bags and a cardboard-reinforced platform. Colours are listed per service uniform in the materials and the pattern shows where to change colours by row number for clean, crisp uniform details.

Assembly instructions explain how to attach arms into sleeves, join legs together and sew hats and small accessories such as poppies and a strap, and all shaping is worked in the round using invisible decreases for a neat finish.

This pattern leads you through crocheting three uniformed amigurumi figures that stand on a round platform and display a small poppy detail and an LED centrepiece.

You will make heads, upper bodies, sleeves, arms, legs, boots and hats using light weight yarn and a 2.0 mm hook while working many sections in continuous rounds for smooth shaping.

Small structural elements such as a cardboard insert for the hat and a wire core for stability are incorporated so the finished set is stable on display without compromising the soft look of the toys.

Close-up of a single sailor amigurumi showing collar detail and hat brim in crochet amigurumi

The instructions identify exact rows for colour changes, and there are short separate sequences for boots, belts, collars and the bag so each accessory reads clearly in the text.

The pattern also points out when to stuff limbs, where to insert cotton buds for head support and how to join legs into a single base to attach to the coat’s lower edge.

Stitches & Skills You'll Use

This project uses a handful of core amigurumi techniques: single crochet worked in the round from a magic ring, increases and decreases and invisible decrease where continuous spirals are needed to keep shaping smooth.

The pattern also asks you to work into back loops only and front loops only in places that form collars, shoe tops and hat brims, which creates subtle raised edges without surface embroidery; mastering BLO and FLO will help you reproduce those clean lines.

Additional skills include joining two leg pieces into a single skirt by crocheting around both legs, using slip stitches to finish rounds neatly, sewing small pieces with a tapestry needle and inserting cardboard or stiff wire to support hats and poses so the figures stand securely.

Why You'll Love This For The Fallen Armed Forces Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it balances respectful detailing with straightforward amigurumi techniques, letting me focus on finishing touches while the shaping stays predictable.

I enjoy the way colour-change rows create crisp uniforms without complicated surface embroidery, so each figure looks neat and recognisable with minimal extra work.

I appreciate that the designer included cardboard reinforcement and a suggested LED centrepiece, which gave my display the weight and visual focus I wanted while keeping the crochet elements soft and handmade.

I also love sewing small poppies and placing them precisely; that finishing moment makes the set feel complete and meaningful to me.

Colour & Yarn Inspiration

Use the pattern colours as suggested—skin tones for rows 1–16 and distinct uniform palettes for rows 17–37—to create instantly recognisable service styles while keeping raw materials consistent by choosing the same yarn brand across colours.

To personalise, swap the uniform brown for an olive green to suggest historical uniforms, or choose muted navy and grey blends to achieve a vintage look; selecting a slightly higher-twist light-weight yarn will make uniform trims crisper and higher contrast colours will highlight collars and belts.

Pilot amigurumi with blue-grey uniform standing on platform next to poppy detail and LED light

Switch Things Up

I often change uniform colours to represent different services or to honor family members by using their unit colours rather than the exact palette in the pattern.

If you prefer a single, unified look make all three figures the same colour and vary only hat styles for visual distinction.

I sometimes replace the cardboard hat insert with thin craft foam for a cleaner curved brim and easier gluing when making many sets.

To make a mini keychain version I switch to a finer yarn and a 1.5 mm hook and omit the internal wire and LED, keeping the same row counts for a small, portable replica.

I like adding removable felt badges held with a couple of stitches so I can change insignia for different occasions without altering the crochet work.

For a more rustic finish I use a slub or tweed light-weight yarn and skip the white trims, which gives a worn, vintage appearance without changes to structure.

I sometimes braid a tiny cord from leftover yarn to make a strap instead of crocheting it, saving time on tiny chains and producing a neat, sturdy look.

If you want a standing-only museum piece I add a stronger wire core to the legs and seat the LED deeper in the platform for a cleaner display line.

When making sets as gifts I package a spare poppy and a short note about the piece, so recipients can replace tiny parts if necessary while keeping the main toy intact.

Finally, for a softer toy I use a plush light-worsted yarn with a slightly larger hook and skip the cardboard inserts so the figures become fully squishy friends rather than a display piece.

Ways to Use & Gift It

Make a set as a keepsake for a veteran friend or a family member who served, and present it inside a shallow wooden box with the LED candle installed in the platform to create an illuminated tribute ready for display.

Create a series of mini versions to give as table favours at a remembrance event, or make a single full-size set as a thoughtful gift for a ceremony or to accompany a framed photograph; the handmade poppies and sewn badges make each piece a personal, tactile token of remembrance.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Skipping the marker at the start of continuous rounds causes miscounted rows; place a stitch marker at the beginning of every round and move it each round to avoid errors. Changing colour in the wrong place creates visible joins on the uniform; always switch colour at the specified row end and weave in the tail inside the next round to hide the join. Overstuffing arms and legs makes seams pucker when attaching; stuff gradually and stop when the limbs hold their shape but still compress slightly under pressure. Forgetting to work in the front or back loops as instructed alters shaping; read each row note carefully and mark rows that use BLO or FLO so you do not accidentally pair rounds. Using a non-stiff wire for limb or base reinforcement leads to sagging; choose 1.5 mm aluminium or equivalent stiff wire and test a short piece for rigidity before inserting.

Maker's Notes

When I tested the full set I used a light-weight (#3) acrylic yarn and a 2.0 mm hook and spent about nine hours over two days completing all three figures and the platform. I worked heads and upper bodies in continuous rounds with invisible decreases for smoothed shaping and found beginners often stumble at the point where legs are joined into a single skirt because you must crochet around both legs and then continue shaping; marking the first stitch and counting carefully eliminates confusion. Another sticking point I observed is front-loop-only rounds on the sailor hat brim and collar where it is easy to pick up both loops—marking those rounds in your notes and using a contrasting safety pin to mark the stitch you start from helped keep the edge consistent.

Sewing the hat to the head using the back loops of the helmet row creates a neat brim; test the cardboard piece in the hat before gluing so you have the correct curvature. Finally, insert the cotton buds before closing the head top to help maintain posture during final sewing.

I tried a substitution: I tried a real substitution by using DK weight yarn on a 3.0 mm hook for one figure and the result was a noticeably larger figure, roughly 25 percent taller, with softer definition around collars and a looser hat brim; the larger version looks cuddly but required thicker wire and a slightly wider cardboard insert to keep the hat shape. I compensated by reducing stuffing slightly and reinforcing seams when attaching the arms and platform; the substitution worked well for a plush display but I would not recommend it if you need precise proportions to match a set made in the original light-weight yarn.

For The Fallen Armed Forces Amigurumi Pattern

Free round-by-round crochet pattern for Fallen Armed Forces, with full stitch counts.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours
Pattern at a glance
Skill level
Intermediate
Time to make
8-10 Hours
Hook size
2.0 mm (B/1)
Yarn weight
Light / #3
Finished size
Approx. 20 cm / 7.9 in tall for the tallest figure; platform diameter approx. 18 cm / 7 in
Gauge
Approximate gauge: 18 sc x 20 rows = 10 cm square worked tightly so no stuffing shows
Yarn used
Approx. 200 g total yarn across all colours (approx. 800 m / 875 yd)

Materials Needed

Main Fabric
  • 01
    Light weight yarn (3) assorted colours; use the same weight for all parts
  • 02
    Skin colour - approx. 30-40g per figure
  • 03
    Uniform brown - 80-100g for the soldier set
  • 04
    Navy blue - 80-100g for the sailor components
  • 05
    Blue-grey - 50-70g for the pilot body sections
  • 06
    Black - small amounts for shoes and straps, roughly 10-20g
  • 07
    White - small trims and hats, 10-20g
  • 08
    Beige - bag and small details, about 20g
  • 09
    Red - poppies and small badges, about 10-15g
  • 10
    Grey for platform - small platform 100-120m/110-130yd, large platform 150-175m/165-190yd
Tools Required
  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.0mm (B)
  • 02
    Stitch markers
  • 03
    Tapestry needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Polyester stuffing
  • 06
    Aluminium wire 1.5mm thick for internal support
  • 07
    Pliers to cut and shape the wire
  • 08
    Cardboard 5mm thick for hat reinforcement and platform
  • 09
    Cotton buds (3) to support head positioning
  • 10
    LED candle battery-operated, 35mm diameter (do not use real candles)
  • 11
    Pencil and glue for cardboard work

— Basic pattern head and upper body :

Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring with skin color;
Round 2: inc in every stitch (12)
Round 3: *1sc, inc* repeat till end (18)
Round 4: *1sc, inc, 1sc* repeat till end (24)
Round 5: *3sc, inc* repeat till end (30)
Round 6: 1sc in every stitch (30)
Round 7: 1sc in every stitch (30)
Round 8: 1sc in every stitch (30)
Round 9: 1sc in every stitch (30)
Round 10: 1sc in every stitch (30)
Round 11: *3sc, dec* repeat till end (24)
Round 12: *1sc, dec, 1sc* repeat till end (18)
Round 13: *1sc, dec* repeat till end (12)
Round 14: dec 6 times (6)
Round 15: 1sc in every stitch (6)
Round 16: 1sc in every stitch (6)
Round 17: inc in every back loop (12)
Round 18: *1sc, inc* repeat till end (18)
Round 19: *1sc, inc, 1sc* repeat till end (24)
Round 20: *3sc, inc* repeat till end (30)
Round 21: 5sc, dec twice, 11sc, dec twice, 6sc (26)
Round 22: 1sc in every stitch (26)
Round 23: 1sc in every stitch (26)
Round 24: 1sc in every stitch (26)
Round 25: 1sc in every stitch (26)
Round 26: 1sc in every stitch (26)
Round 27: 1sc in every stitch (26)
Round 28: 1sc in every stitch (26)
Round 29: 1sc in every stitch (26)
Round 30: 1sc, 4 times *2sc, dec, 2sc*, 1sc (22)
Round 31: in front loops only: 1sc, 4 times *2sc, inc, 2sc*, 1sc (26)
Round 32: 25sc, inc (27)
Round 33: 1sc in every stitch (27)
Round 34: 26sc, inc (28)
Round 35: 1sc in every stitch (28)
Round 36: 27sc, inc (29)
Round 37: 1sc in every stitch (29)

— Sleeves (make 2) :

Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring (6)
Round 2: inc in every stitch (12)
Round 3: 1sc in every stitch (12)
Round 4: 1sc in every stitch (12)
Round 5: 1sc in every stitch (12)
Round 6: 1sc in every stitch (12)
Round 7: 1sc in every stitch (12)
Round 8: 1sc in every stitch (12)
Round 9: 1sc in every stitch (12)
Round 10: 1sc in every stitch (12)
Round 11: 1sc in every stitch (12)
Round 12: 1sc in every stitch (12)
Round 13: 1sc in every stitch (12)
Round 14: 1sc in every stitch (12)
Round 15: 1sc in every stitch (12)
Round 16: 1sc in every stitch (12)

— Arms (make 2) :

Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring with skin color;
Round 2: 1sc in every stitch (6)
Round 3: 1sc in every stitch (6)
Round 4: 1sc in every stitch (6)
Round 5: 1sc in every stitch (6)
Round 6: 1sc in every stitch (6)
Round 7: 1sc in every stitch (6)
Round 8: 1sc in every stitch (6)
Round 9: 1sc in every stitch (6)
Round 10: 1sc in every stitch (6)
Round 11: 1sc in every stitch (6)
Round 12: 1sc in every stitch (6)
Round 13: 1sc in every stitch (6)
Round 14: 1sc in every stitch (6)
Round 15: 1sc in every stitch (6)
Round 16: *1sc, inc, 1sc* repeat till end (8)
Round 17: 1sc in every stitch (8)
Round 18: dec 4 times (4)

— Boots and legs :

Round 2: start in the second ch from the hook: inc, 5sc, inc twice it the last ch, 5sc, inc (18)
Round 3: 1sc in every back loop (18)
Round 4: ; 6sc, dec 3 times, 6sc (15)
Round 5: 5sc, dec 3 times, 4sc (12)
Round 6: 5sc, dec twcie, 3sc (10)
Round 7: 1 in every stitch (10)
Round 8: 1 in every stitch (10)
Round 9: 1sc, inc, 8sc (11)
Round 10: 1sc in every stitch (11)
Round 11: 1sc, inc, 9sc (12)
Round 12: 1sc in every stitch (12)
Round 13: 1sc in every stitch (12)
Round 14: 1sc, dec twice, 7sc (10)
Round 15: in front loops: *1sc, inc* repeat till end (15) with uniform brown;
Round 16: 1sc in every stitch (15)
Round 17: 1sc in every stitch (15)
Round 18: 1sc in every stitch (15)
Round 19: 1sc in every stitch (15)
Round 20: 1sc in every stitch (15)
Round 21: 1sc in every stitch (15)
Round 22: 1sc in every stitch (15)
Round 23: 1sc in every stitch (15)
Round 24: Step 1: 8sc in the SECOND leg, Step 2: 15sc in the FIRST leg (start in the marked stitch) Step 3: 7sc in the remaining stitches of the SECOND LEG (30sc in total)
Round 25: *3sc, dec* repeat till end (24)
Round 26: 1sc in every stitch (24)
Round 27: *5sc, dec, 5sc* repeat till end (22)
Round 28: 1sc in every stitch (22)
Round 29: 1sc in every stitch (22)
Round 30: 1sc in every stitch (22)

— Belt :

Round 2: start in the second ch from the hook: 1sc in every ch (25)

— Collar :

Round 1: Ch 11 with uniform brown;
Round 2: start in the second ch from the hook: *1sc, inc* repeat till end (15)

— Helmet :

Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring (6) with brodie helmet color;
Round 2: inc in every stitch (12)
Round 3: *1sc, inc* repeat till end (18)
Round 4: *1sc, inc, 1sc* repeat till end (24)
Round 5: *3sc, inc* repeat till end (30)
Round 6: 1sc in every stitch (30)
Round 7: *2sc, inc, 2sc* repeat till end (36)
Round 8: in front loops only *5sc, inc* repeat till end (42)

— Bag :

Round 1: Ch 9 with beige;
Round 2: start in the second ch from the hook: 7sc, inc, 7sc (16)
Round 3: 1sc in every stitch (16)
Round 4: 1sc in every stitch (16)
Round 5: 1sc in every stitch (16)
Round 6: 1sc in every stitch (16)
Round 7: 8sc, ch1 and turn (8) leave the rest;
Round 8: 8sc, ch1 and turn (8) leave the rest of;
Round 9: dec, 4sc, dec, ch1 and turn (6)
Round 10: dec, 2sc, dec (4)

— Do the following now :

Round 1: Ch 31 with beige;
Round 2: start in the second ch from the hook: 1sc in every L (30)

— Shoes and legs :

Round 1: Ch 8 with black Work around the chs now;
Round 2: start in the second ch from the hook: inc, 5sc, inc twice in the last ch, 5sc, inc (18)
Round 3: in back loops only 1sc in every stitch (18)
Round 4: ; 6sc, dec 3 times, 6sc (15)
Round 5: 5sc, dec 3 times, 4sc (12)
Round 6: 5sc, dec twice, 3sc (10)
Round 7: 1 in every stitch (10)
Round 8: in front loops: 1sc in every stitch (10) with white;
Round 9: 1sc in every stitch (10)
Round 10: 1sc in every stitch (10)
Round 11: in front loops: *1sc, inc* repeat till end (15) with navy blue;
Round 12: 1sc in every stitch (15)
Round 13: 1sc in every stitch (15)
Round 14: 1sc in every stitch (15)
Round 15: 1sc in every stitch (15)
Round 16: 1sc in every stitch (15)
Round 17: 1sc in every stitch (15)
Round 18: 1sc in every stitch (15)
Round 19: 1sc in every stitch (15)
Round 20: 1sc in every stitch (15)
Round 21: 1sc in every stitch (15)
Round 22: 1sc in every stitch (15)
Round 23: 1sc in every stitch (15)
Round 24: Step 1: 8sc in the SECOND leg, Step 2: 15sc in the FIRST leg (start in the marked stitch) Step 3: 7sc in the remaining stitches of the SECOND LEG (30sc in total)
Round 25: *3sc, dec* repeat till end (24)
Round 26: 1sc in every stitch (24)
Round 27: *5sc, dec, 5sc* repeat till end (22)
Round 28: 1sc in every stitch (22)
Round 29: 1sc in every stitch (22)
Round 30: 1sc in every stitch (22)

— Belt :

Round 1: Ch 26 with white;
Round 2: start in the second ch from the hook: 1sc in every ch (25)
Round 4: start in the second ch from the hook: 1sc in every ch (8)

— Collar :

Round 2: start in the second ch from the hook: 1sc in every ch, ch1 and turn (9)
Round 3: 1sc in every stitch, ch1 and turn (9)
Round 4: 1sc in every stitch, ch1 and turn (9)
Round 5: 1sc in every stitch, ch1 and turn (9)
Round 6: 1sc in every stitch, ch1 and turn (9)
Round 7: 3sc, ch1 and turn (3)
Round 8: 1sc in every stitch, ch1 and turn (3)
Round 9: 1sc in every stitch, ch1 and turn (3)
Round 10: 1sc in every stitch, ch1 and turn (3)
Round 11: dec, 1sc, ch1 and turn (2)
Round 12: 1sc in every stitch, ch1 and turn (2)
Round 13: 1sc in every stitch, ch1 and turn (2)
Round 14: 1sc in every stitch, ch1 and turn (2)
Round 15: dec (1)

— Shirt piece :

Round 1: Ch 3 with white;
Round 2: start in the second ch from the hook: 1sc in every L, ch1 and turn (2)
Round 3: 1sc in every stitch, ch1 and turn (2)
Round 4: dec (1)

— Hat :

Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring with white;
Round 2: inc in every stitch (12)
Round 3: *1sc, inc* repeat till end (18)
Round 4: *1sc, inc, 1sc* repeat till end (24)
Round 5: *3sc, inc* repeat till end (30)
Round 6: *2sc, inc, 2sc* repeat till end (36)
Round 7: 1sc in every back loop (36)
Round 8: *2sc, dec, 2sc* repeat till end (30)
Round 9: 1sc in every stitch (30)
Round 10: 1sc in every front loop (30) with black;
Round 11: 1sc in every stitch (30)

— Shoes and legs :

Round 1: Ch 8 with black Work around the chs now;
Round 2: start in the second ch from the hook: inc, 5sc, inc twice in the last ch, 5sc, inc (18)
Round 3: 1sc in every back loop (18)
Round 4: ; 6sc, dec 3 times, 6sc (15)
Round 5: 5sc, dec 3 times, 4sc (12)
Round 6: 5sc, dec twice, 3sc (10)
Round 7: in front loops: 9sc, inc (11) with blue grey;
Round 8: 1sc in every stitch (11)
Round 9: 1sc in every stitch (11)
Round 10: 10sc, inc (12)
Round 11: 1sc in every stitch (12)
Round 12: 1sc in every stitch (12)
Round 13: 11sc, inc (13)
Round 14: 1sc in every stitch (13)
Round 15: 1sc in every stitch (13)
Round 16: 1sc in every stitch (13)
Round 17: 12sc, inc (14)
Round 18: 1sc in every stitch (14)
Round 19: 1sc in every stitch (14)
Round 20: 1sc in every stitch (14)
Round 21: 1sc in every stitch (14)
Round 22: 13sc, inc (15)
Round 23: 1sc in every stitch (15)
Round 24: Step 1: 14sc in the SECOND leg Step 2: 15sc in the FIRST leg (start in the marked stitch 6) Step 3: 1sc in the last stitch of the SECOND LEG ((30) in total)
Round 25: *3sc, dec* repeat till end (24)
Round 26: 1sc in every stitch (24)
Round 27: *5sc, dec, 5sc* repeat till end (22)
Round 28: 1sc in every stitch (22)
Round 29: 1sc in every stitch (22)
Round 30: 1sc in every stitch (22)

— Belt :

Round 1: Ch 26 with white;
Round 2: start in the second ch from the hook: 1sc in every ch (25)
Round 4: start in the second ch from the hook: 1sc in every ch (8)

— Shirt piece :

Round 1: Ch 4 with light blue;
Round 2: start in the second ch from the hook: 1sc in every ch, ch1;
Round 3: 1sc in every stitch, ch1 and turn (3)
Round 4: 1sc, dec, ch1 and turn (2)
Round 5: 1sc in every stitch, ch1 and turn (2)
Round 6: dec (1)

— Collar :

Round 1: Ch 12 with blue-grey;
Round 2: start in the second ch from the hook: 4sc, 1 dc, ch2, make 1sl st in the first ch, 1sl st in the next ch of row 1, ch1, 1;

— Hat :

Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring with blue-grey;
Round 2: inc in every stitch (12)
Round 3: *1sc, inc* repeat till end (18)
Round 4: *1sc, inc, 1sc* repeat till end (24)
Round 5: *3sc, inc* repeat till end (30)
Round 6: *2sc, inc, 2sc* repeat till end (36)
Round 7: 1sc in every back loop (36)
Round 8: Step 1: 2sc, dec, 2sc, Step 2: 2hdc, hdc dec, 2hdc, Step 3: 2times: *2dc, dc dec, 2dc*, Step 4: 2hdc, hdc dec, 2hdc, Step 5: 2sc, dec, 2sc (= 30 in total)
Round 9: 1sc in every front loop (30) with navy blue;
Round 10: 1sc in every stitch (30)

— Part 20 :

Round 1: only in front loops: 1sl st, 1sc, 1hdc, dc inc, 2dc, dc inc, 1hdc, 1sc, 2sl st and turn Do not make a ch1 before turning. This time you only need to turn, no ch1;
Round 2: Step 1: skip that last sl st of row 1;

— Piece A :

Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring (6) with grey;
Round 2: inc in every stitch (12)
Round 3: *1sc, inc* repeat till end (18)
Round 4: *1sc, inc, 1sc* repeat till end (24)
Round 5: *3sc, inc* repeat till end (30)
Round 6: *2sc, inc, 2sc* repeat till end (36)
Round 7: *5sc, inc* repeat till end (42)
Round 8: *3sc, inc, 3sc* repeat till end (48)
Round 9: *7sc, inc* repeat till end (54)
Round 10: *4sc, inc, 4sc* repeat till end (60)
Round 11: *9sc, inc* repeat till end (66)
Round 12: *5sc, inc, 5sc* repeat till end (72)

— Piece B :

Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring (6) with grey;
Round 2: inc in every stitch (12)
Round 3: *1sc, inc* repeat till end (18)
Round 4: *1sc, inc, 1sc* repeat till end (24)
Round 5: *3sc, inc* repeat till end (30)
Round 6: *2sc, inc, 2sc* repeat till end (36)
Round 7: *5sc, inc* repeat till end (42)
Round 8: *3sc, inc, 3sc* repeat till end (48)
Round 9: *7sc, inc* repeat till end (54)
Round 10: *4sc, inc, 4sc* repeat till end (60)
Round 11: *9sc, inc* repeat till end (66)
Round 12: *5sc, inc, 5sc* repeat till end (72)
Round 13: in back loops only: 1sc in every stitch (72)
Round 14: 1sc in every stitch (72)
Round 15: 1sc in every stitch (72)

— Petals 1 and 2 :

Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring (6) with red;
Round 2: in front loops: inc 3 times, ch2 and turn (6)
Round 3: 3times *1hdc, hdc inc*, ch2 and turn (9)
Round 4: 1hdc, hdc inc, 1hdc, 1 dc, dc inc, 1 dc, 1hdc, hdc inc, 1hdc (12)

— Do the following now :

Round 1: in back loops only: inc 3 times, ch2 and turn (6)
Round 2: hdc inc 6 times, ch2 and turn (12)
Round 3: *1 dc, dc inc* repeat till the end, ch1 and turn (18)
Round 4: 1sc in every stitch (18)

— Middle of the poppy :

Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring (6) with black;
Round 2: inc in every stitch (12)

— Bottom of the platform :

Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring (6) with grey;
Round 2: inc in every stitch (12)
Round 3: *1sc, inc* repeat till end (18)
Round 4: *1sc, inc 1sc* repeat till end (24)
Round 5: *3sc, inc* repeat till end (30)
Round 6: *2sc, inc, 2sc* repeat till end (36)
Round 7: *5sc, inc* repeat till end (42)
Round 8: *3sc, inc, 3sc* repeat till end (48)
Round 9: *7sc, inc* repeat till end (54)
Round 10: *4sc, inc, 4sc* repeat till end (60)
Round 11: *9sc, inc* repeat till end (66)
Round 12: *5sc, inc, 5sc* repeat till end (72)
Round 13: *11sc, inc* repeat till end (78)
Round 14: *6sc, inc, 6sc* repeat till end (84)
Round 15: *13sc, inc* repeat till end (90)
Round 16: *7sc, inc, 7sc* repeat till end (96)
Round 17: *15sc, inc* repeat till end (102)
Round 18: *8sc, inc, 8sc* repeat till end (108)
Round 19: *17sc, inc* repeat till end (114)
Round 20: *9sc, inc, 9sc* repeat till end (120)
Round 21: *19sc, inc* repeat till end (126)
Round 22: *10sc, inc, 10sc* repeat till end (132)
Round 23: *21sc, inc* repeat till end (138)
Round 24: *11sc, inc, 11sc* repeat till end (144)
Round 25: in front loops: *23sc, inc* repeat till end (150)
Round 26: *12sc, inc, 12sc* repeat till end (156)
Round 27: 1sc in every stitch (156)
Round 28: *12sc, dec, 12sc* repeat till end (150)
Round 29: *23sc, dec* repeat till end (144)
Round 30: 1sc in every stitch and sc this row together with the back loops of 24 ((144) in total)
Round 31: 1sc in every stitch (144)
Round 32: 1sc in every stitch (144)
Round 33: 1sc in every stitch (144)

— Top of the platform :

Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring (6) with grey;
Round 2: inc in every stitch (12)
Round 3: *1sc, inc* repeat till end (18)
Round 4: *1sc, inc 1sc* repeat till end (24)
Round 5: *3sc, inc* repeat till end (30)
Round 6: *2sc, inc, 2sc* repeat till end (36)
Round 7: *5sc, inc* repeat till end (42)
Round 8: *3sc, inc, 3sc* repeat till end (48)
Round 9: *7sc, inc* repeat till end (54)
Round 10: *4sc, inc, 4sc* repeat till end (60)
Round 11: *9sc, inc* repeat till end (66)
Round 12: *5sc, inc, 5sc* repeat till end (72)
Round 13: *11sc, inc* repeat till end (78)
Round 14: *6sc, inc, 6sc* repeat till end (84)
Round 15: *13sc, inc* repeat till end (90)
Round 16: *7sc, inc, 7sc* repeat till end (96)
Round 17: *15sc, inc* repeat till end (102)
Round 18: *8sc, inc, 8sc* repeat till end (108)
Round 19: *17sc, inc* repeat till end (114)
Round 20: *9sc, inc, 9sc* repeat till end (120)
Round 21: *19sc, inc* repeat till end (126)
Round 22: *10sc, inc, 10sc* repeat till end (132)
Round 23: *21sc, inc* repeat till end (138)
Round 24: *11sc, inc, 11sc* repeat till end (144)

— Make the candle holder now :

Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring with grey;
Round 2: inc in every stitch (12)
Round 3: *1sc, inc* repeat till end (18)
Round 4: *1sc, inc, 1sc* repeat till end (24)
Round 5: *3sc, inc* repeat till end (30)
Round 6: *2sc, inc, 2sc* repeat till end (36)
Round 7: 1sc in every back loop (36)
Round 8: 1sc in every stitch (36)
Round 9: 1sc in every stitch (36)
Round 10: 1sc in every stitch (36)
Round 11: 1sc in every stitch (36)
Round 12: 1sc in every stitch (36)
Round 13: 1sc in every stitch (36)
Round 14: 1sc in every stitch (36)
Round 15: 1sc in every stitch (36)
Round 16: in front loops: *5sc, inc* repeat till end (42)
Round 17: *3sc, inc, 3sc* repeat till end (48)
Round 18: *3sc, dec, 3sc* repeat till end (42)
Round 19: *5sc, dec* repeat till end (36)

Assembly Instructions

  1. Attach each head to its upper body by aligning the neck opening with the body top and sewing through both layers with mattress or whipstitch, making sure the seam is centered at the back of the neck.
  2. Insert one cotton bud inside each neck reaching just below the top of the head to help the head sit upright, then sew the hat on using the back loops of the helmet row so the brim sits flush.
  3. Position arms inside each sleeve and sew the sleeve opening to the shoulder rows indicated in the pattern, aligning the right hand to the saluting position and reinforcing with a few extra stitches at the shoulder.
  4. Sew the two leg pieces together into the coat lower edge by following the join instruction: work around both legs to reach 30 stitches, then shape the joined skirt and attach to the back loops of row 30 of the coat for a clean join.
  5. Glue or sew the cardboard insert into the hat and into the hat-shaped piece on the platform for rigidity, and place the LED candle into the platform centre before closing the top rounds so it sits supported.

Important Notes

  • Work all pieces using the same yarn weight to ensure parts scale correctly when assembling the figures and platform.
  • Pay attention to front loop and back loop instructions because changing which loop you work will affect the silhouette of collars, shoes and hats.
  • Use invisible decreases for rounds worked in continuous spirals to keep shaping smooth and avoid visible gaps on the front of each figure.
  • Stuff limbs and bodies gradually and check shape after every few rounds to avoid lumps and to maintain consistent tension through shaping.
  • Secure all accessory pieces with both sewing and a small dab of glue if necessary to keep tiny parts such as poppies and straps in place on display.

This pattern set was designed as a quiet tribute to service and to the small, handmade gestures that remember them. It brings three uniformed figures together on a reinforced platform with a soft, crocheted finish and carefully placed poppy details. The included LED centrepiece is optional but gives the display a solemn focal point and a handcrafted presence on any mantel or table.

Good to know

You ask, we answer

The finished display with the three figures on the platform measures approximately 20 cm tall for the tallest figure and the platform diameter is about 18 cm when using light weight yarn and a 2.0 mm hook.

You may substitute with a heavier or lighter yarn, but the pattern assumes light weight (#3) yarn and a 2.0 mm hook; changing weight will alter dimensions and may require adjusting wire size and cardboard reinforcements.

This pattern is rated intermediate because it uses magic rings, invisible decreases, front/back loop work and careful assembly; beginners who know single crochet and increases can attempt it but should be prepared for precise seaming and small-piece finishing.

Most crafters finish the full three-figure set and platform in roughly 8 to 10 hours, depending on experience, attention to finishing details and whether you construct the optional LED element.

Poppies and straps are small but are sewn on with simple whipstitching and a reinforcing dab of fabric glue if desired; sewing them before final head placement makes alignment easier.

Yes, the pattern specifies using a battery-operated LED candle of 35mm diameter and cardboard reinforcement to keep the candle stable, but never use a real flame with textile materials.

Soldier amigurumi with brodie helmet and uniform brown crocheted body, head and arms visible
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